tucker301

Do the shovelers ever move on through or is that as far as they go? Thanks for keeping up in pics

You can put the plastic ones back in or you can use plug screws as suggested by Remy.

You'll also want to remove the stock and clean the recoil tube assembly, disassemble the bolt group and clean it, and wipe out the inside of the receiver and trigger group.

Looks like you got a good one! Next thing to do is to disassemble, clean, re-assemble, and see how close back to zero you get.

It will pull out. Stick a small screwdriver in the center hole and pry up one side, then the other until it "walks" out. Be CAREFUL! When the cap comes out, the sspring will fly out. Keep your other hand cupped right on top of the tube to prevent flight. [ 12-04-2006, 10:34 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

One thing you could add that would be worth it would be a Sure Cycle kit. The SBE's recoil systems were not corrosion resitent. At least check it to make sure it's not rusting.

No, the loads can't be too heavy. Shoot a couple of boxes (25) of heavy field loads and it should be fine.

Our second split just ended Saturday, but I didn't even bother trying to hunt ducks anymore after my last outing. The weather here has been horrible. What few ducks we had have been killed or shot at by every hunter at least twice. We need Alberta Clippers and we need them soon! The third and final leg opens next Saturday. Some cooler weather has moved in, but it's not coming from the North and Northwest the way we need it to. Until we get some decent weather, I'm afraid the Mid-Atlantic pics are going to be few and far between. Keep 'em coming, mudhen. I'll live vicariously through you until things improve here.

Is it crowded in there?

Blue would be good. Just don't use red.

Right-click the photo and choose Properties. Nice job! Expensive hobby

http://www.benelliusa.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi/topic/1/2903.html?

FBF311, Shoot it as is. Forget the gimmics on the crio and the ComforTech. I've shot both, and there's little to no difference. Put on a nice Kicks or Limbsaver and save that cash for some hevi-shot

The science is pretty simple on why the Benellis outkick most others. The recoil from a given shell is what it is. This energy can be lessened by several means. Probably the most energy comes off from its having to set the gun itself into motion. The heavier the gun, the more energy required to move, the less recoil transferred to the shooter. Energy in gas-operated guns is also dissipated through the gas mechanism and is used to cycle the action. Inertia guns do not have this feature, and unless they're ported or comp'd, they lose no gas (unlike me). The last way a gun can lessen felt recoil is by dissipating it over more surface area. Recoil pads and Comfortech systems do this by compressing as the energy is transferred through them. As the soft elements compress, energy is robbed from the recoil before it reaches the shoulder. Benellis are light, and they use no gas to cycle the action. All they have is the recoil pad and the Comfortech system. That's it.

Tempting....but no thanks.

blackdogs, Another thing that all of us failed to do was to point you towards the FAQ's and the Troubleshooting pages for more information. [ 12-03-2006, 10:35 AM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

Ecept for the safety as you mentioned, the lowers are the same. Note that the carrier release and magazine release are on the RH side of both models. To make a RH gun, you'd need a bolt and a barrel.

How about one for $265? http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=61665880

It's SPR 453. It's the same gun as the Baikal MP153. Russian made and very well liked among waterfowlers with limited budgets. http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewforum.php?f=83

Actually, no. Yours was about the only one that seemed to string together coherent, sensible thoughts into complete sentences. Regarding the problems you're having, there are a couple of suggestions. 1. If the problem only occurs with cheap trap loads, then stop shooting cheap trap loads. Several SBEII owners have experienced similar issues with cheaply made shells. Easy enough to fix. 2. Disassemble the bolt group completely and make sure that there are no burrs or rough edges on either the firing pin or the hole in the bolt through which it travels. If you need help with disassembly and re-assembly then click here to download my PDF guide. 3. Enjoy your beer!

Lose the Rem-Oil and use BreakFree CLP or Hoppes Elite. Use just enough to coat the parts with a thin film and then wipe them down. Leave nothing dripping. Be sure to clean the recoil assembly and the disassembled bolt group thoroughly. Do not case a cold gun and then bring it and leave it cased, as this will lead to condesation. Instead, uncase the gun when back indoors and allow it to reach room temperature. If possible, do not store the cun in a zippered case.

Did I miss "Everybody Get Drunk & Post Day" again?

Not giving sarcasm. Plain and simple, if you were competent enough to take the trigger group apart and examine the functionality of it, then you'd be qualified and able to stone the proper parts to reduce the weight and creep without making the trigger unsafe. Your expectations, in order to be realistic, need to keep in mind that this is a shotgun. It is not a rifle, and it doesn't have the tight tolerances found in better rifle triggers. The fact that you choose to use to shoot slugs at 150 yards as opposed to ducks at 20 yards will in no way change that. Again, I suggest that you take it to a smith and ask him what he can do. He should be able to get it down to 4-5 lbs. and still maintain a safe system.

I'm sorry. The better pictures are on GunBroker.com