tucker301

Perfectly normal behavior.

The below image may help you to understand the concept better. This is a SBEII I Photoshopped in Desert Camo. The barrel and barrel extension are all one piece - one color. When you remove the barrel, it all comes off together. Here's a picture of the lower receiver after the barrel has been removed.

On the SBEII, the upper receiver is attached to the barrel as an extension. If you have a slug barrel, then you will also have a spare upper receiver on which to mount your scope. Remove the barrel, and the scope comes with it. Slap your field barrel on and head for the duck blind!

Why are we resurrecting four year old threads?

The Nova uses the Benelli standard choke tube (not crio). Carlson's makes a rifled tube for it. http://www.choketube.com/mobilchoke.html If you use that tube, you'll want to shoot saboted slugs. Here's another good article for you. I didn't read this one either http://www.whitetailfanatic.com/html/rc_go_slug.shtml

It might. I didn't read it.

Very nice, Drundel! I wish we had an early teal season

Looking back on Steve's original post and recalling how my R1 was fouling in a similar fashion, I think the problem is coming from the way the R1 piston assembly traps hot gasses and attempts to hold them under pressure in the assembly. The Browning releases the gasses quickly and allows for much more rapid cooling. As you can see, all of the heat and pressure are applied to the top of the piston in the Browning, just like an internal combustion engine. There is no sealed chamber between two cylinders to concentrate and retain the hot gasses. It's a bit ironic that Benelli, a company which has built a stellar reputation for offering an alternative to the dirty gas piston systems in shotguns, has built their rifle on that exact design.

OK. All of this talk of pistons got the best of me. So I grabbed my Browning BAR and took it apart. This rifle has about 200 rounds through it, and I don't think I have ever had the piston out of it completely until today. It's a bit of a pain to get out, due to some advanced disassembly work, but it's not too technical. Just follow the guide in the manual and pay attention to what you're doing, and you'll be fine. The piston is about as simple of a design as it gets. Gasses from the barrel are imparted to the top of the piston. The piston then pushes an inertia block rearward, which drives the dual action bars. A very simple and efficient design. (note: inertia block has been removed in the photo) The piston below was removed and wiped off with a lightly oiled rag, then wiped dry. There was just a light powdery sooty coating on it, and it required no solvent to get clean. Browning states in the manual to never oil the piston, but to merely wipe it down with a lightly oiled cloth. There are no o-rings in the assembly.

Yes, the piston fouling so quickly and so severely bothered me. That and the fact that the gun didn't have good return to zero after being disassembled. It simply made no sense to have a rifle that needed to be cleaned so frequently, but also needed to checked for zero whenever it was taken apart and re-assembled. I sold the R1 and opted for the BAR ShortTrac Stalker. I am very happy with the Browning.

Dr. Hook, The one I had would foul heavily after just 20 or so rounds. Brake cleaner and stiff brush about as well as anything.

You can certainly use it in its current configuration with slugs. My old 870 used to shoot 3-4" groups out to 125 yards with a 24" cylinder bore barrel. The trick is to try different slug loads and find what your Nova likes best. You will want to shoot slugs designed for a smoothbore through the IC choke. These will be labeled as "rifled slugs". The projectile itself is rifled but not to make it spin as it flies through the air. Remington SLugger Federal Truball Here is a good article concerning slugs

Full-length resizing Do not exceed published OAL Crimped Stay within published limits Follow those few simple rules, and reloads are just fine for semi-autos.

The SBEII is designed for waterfowl, not the Cordoba. The Cordoba does not come in 3.5". 3.5" is 16.66% better than 3"

So to what dimensions did your grossly underpaid machinist turn down your store bought punch? What grade of stainless steel are you using? Why are you powder coating stainless? Please post a picture of the actual product, instead of picture of a punch you got from a Google Search.

You guys are gonna love this. http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19918 We've got some fool on the main forums trying to sell a "R1 Critical Assembly Tool" for $18 plus shipping. He's selling cheap pin punches for 4x their retail value and saying they're made to custom fit the R1 barrel nut. Do us a favor and tell us what size standard hardware pin punch best fits the hole on the nut, so we can give this bum the boot.

That set of instructions is a throw back to the old days when gunmakers packed new guns with a heavy grease known as cosmoline. Today's Benellis are not shipped this way, so pre-cleaning isn't really necessary. However, I do like to take my new guns down and familiarize myself with them.

Limbsaver has templates on their website. Download, print, compare.

I use a rattling bag, the can, and a grunt call.

Ten years would probably do it. I hope that fixes it for you.

here are some pictures I took of mine showing the various stages of operation and function. Compare to yours. Slideshow

OK. I took mine apart and checked the operation. When you press the cartridge drop lever, the aduible "click" is the carrier latch popping out. This blocks the carrier (elevator) from coming up. If you remove the upper receiver you can clearly see how that works. When the carrier comes up it the bolt stop tooth down to release it from the notch that's cut into the bottom of the bolt. Check your bolt stop tooth to see if it is broken or improperly installed. Also check the bottom of the bolt to make sure that the notch has not been damaged and is allowing the bolt to slip forward when it should be locked open. All of the above part names are from the Benelli parts manual. If you don't have one, you download it from the support section of the Italian website at http://www.benelli.it/index.asp?Lan=EN I'll try to put some pictures together for you as well.

You should be able to look inside the receiver and see the lever pivoting when the button is depressed. The only other thing that I know of that could cause this problem is if the cartridge drop lever spring isn't properly engaged. If that's the case, the resistance on the cartridge drop lever should be weak to non-existent. If it's not that, then I can't help you without laying hands on it.

Of course you have. The carrier latch locks the bolt back. If the tab on the carrier latch is caught behind the tip of the drop lever, then the bolt won't stay back.