tucker301

That's real good shooting, considering the trigger pull of the R1. I'm glad you found a load the rifle likes. With the price of .270 WSM ammo, you could have exceeded the price of the rifle looking for a good one.

I never really liked the Robertsons that much.

E=1/2 MV² (E is Energy, M is Mass, V is Velocity) Given equal barrel lengths, charge weights, and payloads, the only variable left is the weight of the gun or a redirection of muzzle gasses (like a brake or gas piston system) to reduce recoil energy. Since neither the Inertia system nor the pump gun do anything to redirect gasses, with all other factors being equal, gun weight is the only remaining factor to reduce actual recoil. That being said, actual recoil energy can be distributed over time and space to lessen felt recoil. That's why we use recoil pads. They don't change the amount of energy, but they spread it over time and space to make it less accute. Regardless of manufacturers' marketing claims, they cannot alter the realities of physics. If you want a lower recoiling gun, you can shoot lighter and slower loads, a heavier gun, or use a brake/redirection system of some kind. You just can't cheat physics.

Never could figure a decent way to cook those little clay suckers. I do pretty well with the feathery ones on most days.

Magnet will not stick to my SBEII.

11 x .45 = 4.95" 14 x .40 = 6.00" I can put over an inch more projectile into the target than you. I can shoot more and reload less in a single session. Mine has less recoil, so I can recover for a second shot more quickly than you can.

.45ACP Actually, I choose the .40 S&W, but it's not on the list. More rounds One-handed operation Small and easy to hide Easier to handle in tight places Plenty of knockdown power Quick and efficient reloading with additional magazines.

http://www.benelliusa.com/support/contact.php

Those questions are best directed at them. My guess would be that they remove the finish and start back with a good base.

It does. You've got a few scratches and nicks. It happens. It's really no big deal. If you feel it's excessive, then contact CS and exercise your rights under warranty. If you want a showpiece, you should have bought the blued metal and walnut version. If, after years of use, it gets so bad that it bothers you to the point that you can't sleep at night, then send it off and have it re-dipped. There are plenty of places that do that. http://duracoatinc.com http://www.camoent.com/index.htm I bought the black oxide in 2004 with the intention of wearing down the original finish and then having it duracoated or similar. I clean the gun after each use, and so far it's nowhere near needing refinishing. I t has a few nicks and scratches, but a little TLC with CLP keeps it rust free. I don't give a rip what it looks like, as long as it isn't shiny and it performs. So far, so good. If you do decide on a duracoat job, Birdsong is the top man in the industry. Here are a few pattern designs I am considering.

Firstly, the finish is not paint. It is a synthetic ink film applied by immersing the weapon through a skim of printed ink film as it floats on top of water in a tank. Yes, the finish is subject to peel and scratch more easily than are paints and other more durable coatings. The simplest and most economical approach is to accept it for what it is and not worry about it too much. While it is aesthetically unappealing to you, the owner, it is inconsequential to game. I don't think and application of clear coat will adhere very well unless the surface of the film is prepped for good adhesion. Given that it is hardly a hair thick, that could be a tricky thing to pull off. If you're concerned about rust on the exposed metal, then get some Testors and touch up the blemishes as they occur. Here's a video of the hydrographic process.

Yes, it will make a difference. Now stop wandering and settle down.

And I forgot to say it earlier, but that Marlin 336 is an excellent choice for a first deer rifle. I had one when I was 17 and it was one of the most accurate and trouble-free rifles I've ever owned. To this day, I still regret not hanging on to that rifle. My brothers used to light M-80's and throw them across the ice on a frozen pond, but I would shoot them before they detonated. Pizzed them off, but they agreed that I was good with that rifle. Yes, that was a LONG time ago. We can't get M-80's anymore and the ponds never freeze.

Shot placement on large game is something that generally follows two schools of thought. The older and most commonly used shot placement technique focuses on having the bullet strike the heart or lungs, aka the vitals. While it's effective, you can see deer and other large game run for a good distance with both lungs blown out. A deer isn't smart enough to think about being shot. It just knows that it needs haul butt away as quickly as possible. Until the mechanics of its body's internals completely fail, it will keep going. You've probably watched enough hunting shows to recognize that some deer kick like a bronco and then run away, leaving a blood trail to be followed in hopes of recovering the trophy. Sometimes, the hunter even has to come back the next morning to find his deer. Other times, you'll see the deer collapse in its tracks and be dead by the time it hits the ground. When that happens, you can bet that the shot was delivered to place shock and trauma on the deer's nervous system, not the circulatory or respiratory systems. Shocking the nervous system is achieved with a well-placed shot to the upper shoulder of the deer. I call it the tri-pod area, because the spine and two front legs meet in a tri-pod that supports the animal's entire front end. Breaking the tri-pod and shocking the spinal column causes the animal to freeze up and fall over immediately. You have shorted out his entire electrical system and knocked two wheels off the front end. There is nothing he can do about it, but lie there and die. While everyone should know how to track wounded game, I don't think any deer hunter likes it more so than walking right up to their trophy, lying in the same spot he was standing when the trigger was pulled. So practice making the high shoulder shot. When you're scouting or when you see deer on TV, focus on where the bullet needs to be placed. The more you mentally practice this technique, the easier and more second nature it becomes.

My above reply isn't all that relative to what you're asking, now that you have clarified things, but it's still good information for you to have. Any target will do, but you'll be concentrating on shooting something that is the size of a deer's vitals at 100 yards. Try the Grid Target With Sight Alignment Aid from this site. http://www.mytargets.com/

RockyBlue, Each rifle and each bullet have different ballistic characteristics within a hundred yards and beyond a hundred yards. Savvy long range shooters know that some bullets don't even stabilize and settle down until they're past 100 yards. It's common to see loads shoot tighter groups in terms of MOA at 200 yards than they do at 100 yards. All rifle bullets fall victim to gravity the instant they leave the barrel. Therefore, a properly aimed shot must travel in an arc in order to reach its intended mark on the target. The bullet will intersect the arc at two points as it makes its way to the target. A near point and a far point (the point of impact) I think what you;re looking for is a way in which you can practice practical shooting at ranges less than 100 yards, but still maintain a zero for 100 yards. Again, variables such as bullet stability will make the results imperfect, but you can get close enough to be able to practice your techniques until you can get to a longer range. In order to calculate these two intersections, you will need some basic information about the loads you will be shooting and the conditions under which they will be fired. You will then be able plug that data into a ballistics calculator and see where your 100 yard point of impact intersects at a much shorter distance. What you need: Ballistic information of your chosen round. This is usually available from the ammunition or bullet manufacturer. You'll need caliber, BC, bullet weight, muzzle velocity, and sight height. Altitude - Your shooting location's elevation (relevant to sea level). If you don't know your elevation, you can find it by pinpointing your site on Google Earth. Temperature & RH. The ambient temperature and humidity of your shooting range. It's not super critical, but you have to put something into the calculator, so think in terms of fair weather conditions and when you'll be shooting. And of course, you need software to calculate the results. Federal offers a free program for their ammunition, but I like the one from JBM, because I don't always shoot Federal stuff. I'm going to go ahead and run one in each application for you so the results will be clearer for you. First, let's run my deer load, which is Federal, by the way. So I fire up the Federal software and I choose my altitude, temperature, wind speed, increment (in yards), range (max yards, and zero point (100 yards). Then I choose my caliber and load(s). By choosing two loads, the software will let me compare them and graph the trajectories for each. Setting my max distance to 200 yards, the graph opens up enough to show me that these loads intersect the arc at 55 yards and 100 yards equally. So, if I can't practice at 100 yards, then 55 yards will get me real close to where I want to be. Now, let's run a load through the JBM calculator. This is my pet load for my varmint rifle. As you can see, I don't get a graph with this one, but I can still see that my bullet intersects the arc at about .4" low at 50 yards on a 100 yard zero. Therefore, if I practice at 50 yards and shoot my groups about 1/2" low, then I can be pretty close to shooting dead on at 100. Again, and I can't stress this enough, DO NOT rely on this information when hunting! Find a way to shoot at the expected ranges for which you will be taking game and practice at those distances. Leave nothing to chance! Shoot at whatever range you can and develop techniques for breathing, sight acquisition, trigger control, etc., then start shooting at greater distances whenever you can.

IIRC, the forearm only needs to slide forward a short distance to be removed. As long as the clamp is installed far enough forward, the forearm should be removable. A better solution for a rifle like the R1 may be use set of shooting sticks or other portable. If the bi-pod is wanted for bench shooting, then it's just a matter of using a decent bag instead. I like the Caldwell Tackdriver.

Use the proof code and check it against this chart.

Safe? Yes. Barrel scratching? Maybe. If I were to use the forearm clamp I would carefully cut out a recess in the interior of the forearm to accommodate the mounting plate. I would then epoxy the plate in place. Again, I would only use this mount on a synthetic forearm.

I share office space with a machine shop

Savage 12FVSS in 22-250 cut and re-crowned to 24" B&C Medalist stock (just added that a couple of weeks ago) Leupold 6.5-20x50mm (57180) Kenton Industries TTC dial - custom tuned for 50 grain V-Max @ 3,750 fps.

Gun scrubber should be OK on the metals, but don't let it get on the synthetics. The Hoppes stuff you have is probably #9 bore cleaner? No, it will not be OK. Get some Breakfree or Hoppes Elite Field Cleaner. I know Wal-Mart has the Hoppes and I think they have Breakfree as well.

I have shot a couple of turkeys with it, but mostly it's for vermin. 208 yards All it showed me was the head. That was enough. Easy money. $75 to be exact.