Unobtanium

You have bought more M4's? That makes 4 total that I know about, lol

5.56 is loaded hotter and needs more free-bore/longer leade or an over-pressure condition could arise.

Try it and see how the primers look I guess.

If it is stamped .223, it is probably .223.

Install a circular pad. Unitize it with the screw. Loctite the screw. It will be very unlikely to rotate.

If you aren't running the weapon hard/fast, you don't need an enlarged bolt-release. Fail.

Just bought some stuff and like/dislike it and give impartial accounts of my experience. Hopefully more people will do the same and money can be saved/purchasers will get what they are expecting, more of the time. I was very non-plussed that the screw for the CMM button isn't recessed at all as EVERY advertising photo of it CLEALY shows it as being a recessed screw. Observe: http://www.tacticalshotgunner.com/popup_add_image.php?pID=226 . And that was what I was expecting. However, what did I get? Not that. One can argue all day long whether or not the GG&G is worth $120, but I will say it is twice as well thought out as the CMM counterpart, for whatever that's worth.

Not a total-loss, as I said, I have the NC button coming, and while I am not sure what thread the screw is for it, I know the CMM is 4-40, and so I purchased a 4-40 machine screw (flat-edge driven, which I prefer over Hex for a 1-time application such as this, as the flat-edge allows more torque in such a small size without deforming). I have soaked it in bluing remover, that stuff went CRAZY! over whatever was on it, and now it is in a superblack bluing formula. The thing is JET black. Looks great. Removed it from the solution, wiped off the extra bluing/corrosion, air-dried, wiped in 70% alcohol (what the alcohol wipes I have from the hospital are), and painted it with Estes jet-black enamel paint. Looks wonderful, and considering the environment it will be in (enclosed on all sides and air-tight with loctite, it should do perfectly. I will have a bolt-release full of epic win for less than the GG&G unless I have completely somehow missed the boat on this one.

Yep, I draw back the bolt by inverting my hand and using my pinkie. It is the same concept as inverting your hand to slam 4th gear in a 6-speed. It promotes a more neutral straight-back pull. The GGG skins knuckles like this.

Well, it arrived. In all the pictures online, it is vaunted as the "cheaper alternative to the GG&G". Yeah, well cheaper is right. Unlike the online photos, the bolt that holds the pad on is NOT recessed flush. It extends above the pad and is not recessed at all. Further, there is nothing to prevent the pad from swiveling. I tightened the thing as tight as possible (had not installed it, was just testing it before taking the time), and tried to spin it. I could without much trouble. This after tightening the thing enough to round-off my little allen-wrench (the bolt used did not round, +1 for it. My GG&G bolt rounded along with my allen wrench, however, the GG&G is machined along with the included bolt-release in such a way that it CANNOT swivel.). Obviously a 1" long pad getting sideways could cause some problems due to its location. Pass. However--not all is lost. I have a Benelli M4 bolt-release that is drilled and tapped beautifully for a 4-40 screw. I belive Nordic Component's bolt-release uses just such a screw, and their bolt-release is circular. There is no way to "rotate" it other than it comes loose. In fact, JB-weld *could* be used to initize the pad and the bolt, however, I think that is over-kill. It is $14. Over-all, I will have a bolt-release that will not mar my finish, will not look like it was made for Ray Charles, and will not have the abrasive edges that the GG&G has, all for about $85 including shipping.

If it won't blow your house apart, it won't do the job.

What light is it? Were those photos at like the lowest possible setting or what?

Yawn indeed. It weighs over a pound without the mount. It's like 3X as big around as the 6P. It takes SIX CR123's. Who the **** wants that on a weapon? The light produces some output, but it is not what I want on a weapon.

+1 Lots of them claim "emitter lumens" but don't specify, and people think that means OTF, but these 900+ lumen claims are just random BS numbers that someone thought would sell (sadly it does).

I do LOL at 922r, but THAT is one law I wouldn't toe the line on... Some people think the 'net is anonymous. I did too, somewhat, until I read a post on ar15.com The DoD was tracking some stolen equipment. Tracked it to the AR15.com EE, and several suits showed up at the ar15.com user's place of business, with print-outs from the forum, and asked for their equipment back. Pretty hardcore for an ACOG.

Words are fun things.

I peg it at 150-200, probably closer to 150.

Are you really that poor that $5 is a great sum to you?

Unless that is on it's lowest setting, that is only about 150-200L at the very best. 900L OTF is not possible through an LED without a quad-die using DD and IMR power-source, and even then run-time is still limited because we cannot heat-sink the dies well enough at that level of output yet. Honestly, 900L might require multiple single/quad dies placed on a board with individual reflectors/optics wired togather. 900L is a TON! The most you will see at this stage of the game in anything you want hanging on an AR/Shotgun is around 4-600L. Yes, you could hang a DD P7 in a bored out 6P, but that is something only a hardcore flashaholic would do (would get you 5-700L), and I have never seen anyone do that. Once you get THAT into flashlights, it is your primary hobby, not your secondary hobby for the purpose of procuring a weapon-light. Most people buy some crappy chinese drop-in and leave it at that believing whatever the package says. The right way to do it is to buy a 6PD and one of TNVC's adapters and their new TX4 head, which they CLAIM puts out 600 OTF Lumens, but which I suspect in reality puts out around 400 or so (due to claimed run-time and the binning of the quad-dies used). Either the lumen output is off, the run-time is off, or the circuitry is VERY VERY VERY! advanced. The most likely is that circuitry is on-par with the rest of the community, run-time is +- 5-10 minutes, and the lumens are off. I would bet it is 4-475 OTF L. Still, this is an EXCELLENT! unit based on the beam-shots I have seen, and the price ($200 total for the whole thing if you build it). IT appears to have good spill and a nice hot-spot. I do not know the 1m or 3m LUX ratings, yet. I have asked. Or a used M600C (180L average, but with GREAT! throw). Or a 6PD and Malkoff M60 (220-240L avg, GREAT! spill, GOOD throw). Or a 6PD with a Malkof MC-E (450-550 OTF L, All spill, moderate throw). PS. He is a real 180-190 OTF L (measured in a properly calibrated IS) in my living-room: http://www.glowfoto.com/static_image/19-094215L/9062/jpg/05/2010/img6/glowfoto

I think you misunderstood the meaning of the word "great" in this context.

Well if it has to be taken apart then I can get the same thing (rail for my light) for $30. Fail.

So do these 2 horseshoes stay connected during the removal of the barrel, or not?

Can the rail be put on and removed without taking it apart, for the purpose of removing/cleaning the barrel assy.? Is the bottom rail 1913 spec like the sides, or is it cut down the middle like the top?

Looking on this page, a few posts down, I see... http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22246

I too think that the larger mass towards the outside end of the bolt is causing the problem. It is caused during the point in the cycle where the carrier stops, and inertia causes the bolt to try to keep going, peening that edge against the detent. The less mass towards the end, the less leverage/inertia. I would not be suprised if the design-concepts version did not show this as it is a 1/2" diameter and is 8.5g vs. 15.99g. Since the shank is the same, we can only conclude that that extra mass is in the outer end that comprises the handle.