StrangerDanger

Brown truck of happiness came by this afternoon and dropped of some refinished goodness.

Alright. Default to looking into the trigger spring then.

Hey, wait. I think your trigger pack is missing some parts. Part 17 and 18 are missing. The carrier spring plunger and spring. With the proper tools, you can do repair. If you're not comfortable doing the repair, I'd be willing to do it for free. Just cover the shipping and parts. I would recommend doing it yourself to learn how though. I would recommend doing a rebuild on the trigger group. Replace most of the springs in the trigger pack. Hammer Spring, Trigger Spring, Disconnector Spring and Shell release lever spring.

If you find that the spring is broken or missing, Brownells sells a replacement. You could probably also call Benelli USA and they might send you one for free. However, it might be a part that they want to do the install on. Part number #84 http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Benelli-U-S-A-/Super-Black-Eagle-sid570.aspx#s15299sid570 Replacing the spring is a pretty easy job assuming you have some basic tools. You'll need a set of punches, a light hammer and a dental hook.

Great picture. To troubleshoot, can you push the disconnector back towards the rear of the trigger group at all? There is a very limited amount of movement, maybe an 1/8 of an inch. Also, can you push your trigger forward? My guess is that there is either something wrong with the trigger spring. I would pull the trigger out of the trigger group. I wrote this up for the M4, but much of it should translate to the SBE for disassembly. http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/29526-Benelli-M4-Trigger-Disconnector-and-Hammer-Disassembly

My lights and optics should come in later today from the coater. I'm really interested to see how the Burnt Bronze looks in person under different lighting conditions. I finally got my other Aimpoint T1 from LaRue on Tuesday. I had ordered it in mid February. Following parts are due in; 1. Surefire X300 Ultra (For the 9mm AR15) 2. Surefire X300 Ultra (For the Noveske AR15) 3. Surefire M600C Scout Light (For the Benelli M4) 4. Aimpoint T1, 2moa dot optic on a LaRue Absolute Co-witness mount (For the 9mm AR15) 5. Aimpoint T1, 4moa dot Optic on a LaRue low mount (For the Benelli M4) Basic plan was to coat the bodies in Burnt Bronze Cerakote. The control switches, buttons or levers will remain black. Things like the elevation, windage and battery power knob on the Aimpoints will remain black. The fastener hardware on the mounts will be black over the Burnt Bronze. The Surefire's will follow the same plan. I'm really looking forward to seeing the X300 Ultra's cleansed of the laser engraving. The plastic mounting hardware will remain black as well. The coater was instructed to finish them with as matte of a finish as possible. I'll take some pictures when they get here.

Agree about IWC. They're slow as ****. I noticed Brownells carries some of their products, but not everything.

I made it out of an otherwise worthless BLAM4. I drilled out one of the alignment holes to 0.500", filled in the threaded hole with epoxy, chopped the bracket for a reduced size. Filed all the edges down to remove snag hazards. Then chopped off the opposite side sling mount. Then I sent it off with the rest of my junk to get Cerakoted black so it won't rust. The hole you see is just a portion of the QD sling mount. When the parts return, I'll install the IWC QD mount into the hole.

Sounds like the hammer is hung up on the disconnector. If you could take pictures of the trigger group, it would help a lot. A shot like this: Note in this picture, the hammer is being held by the trigger sear engagement on the right. If you look to the left, you will see the disconnector's sear engagement. With the trigger group removed from the Benelli, cock the hammer and determine which sear the hammer is engaged upon. For reference: Disconnector: Black Trigger: Silver (NP3) Hammer: Silver with Horizontal lines You should also function test your trigger group in and out of the Benelli. Clear the weapon of ammunition. Put the Benelli on safe, rack the bolt and allow it to return to battery. Press the trigger. The hammer should not fall. Attempt this several times. Now, take the Benelli off of safe. Press the trigger. The hammer should fall. Now, with the trigger still pressed to the rear, rack the bolt to the rear and allow it to return to battery. You should still be holding the trigger to the rear at this point. The disconnector should be engaged. As you slowly release the trigger, listen for the hammer to make a clicking noise. This click occurs when the hammer slips out of the disconnector and is retained by the trigger's sear. At this point, pull the trigger again and make sure that the hammer falls. Attempt this test several times. You can also do this test with the trigger group removed. You should not allow the hammer to fall and slam against your trigger group though. Control its fall with your thumb. Note how when you press the hammer back to cock it, the disconnector is engaged when you hold the trigger to the rear. The purpose of your disconnector is to prevent the hammer from falling while the bolt is still cycling. This would leave you in a situation where the hammer will ride the bolt back into battery and fail to fire.

I'd recommend reading through this thread: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/31661-Benelli-M4-Weapon-light-mounting-Options-Suck! Here is what I put together. IWC makes an adapter that would allow your G2X to fit to the mount. This is a lot of work, but it is far better than the Surefire M80 rail system. It's about half a pound lighter and a lot more comfortable to use.

I agree. I've done like four of them and found it to be pretty straight forward. And I'm the type that hates changing my own oil. Another item I want to experiment with is lighter weight recoil plungers. I'm always chasing a faster action in the M4 so I can quit outrunning the action on double taps. I might try to make an aluminum magazine tube to see how resilient it is. They might be of value to competition shooters. They'd be lighter than even the titanium units.

Maybe when I get my trust set up. Monocore's look really interesting. Far better than the old baffle designs. Few people are willing to go through the trouble to remove the receiver extension. It's a hard job, much harder than the magazine tubes people are breaking loose these days.

Basic apprenticeship type tasks. I only know the basics of lathe operation. My father is a machinist by trade, so I bought the lathe and set it up at his house as a gift. We don't live super close together, so it'll be a few months before we get together for a week or so. All the lathes at his work are huge. The smallest one has an 8' bed and a 12" chuck. So getting something on the smaller side should help a lot since most of the items produced are quite small. He's already internally threading a bunch of parts. I'd like to put together some receiver extensions for the Benelli M4 out of aluminum 7075 or maybe Titanium. I'd rather aluminum for weight savings. I'd like to add multiple positions for the collapsible stock to engage. I can do a few other cool things like extend the threads on the exterior so users can use those sling plate adapters with the collapsible stock. I can then hone polish the inner diameter of the extension for smooth operation. Then I can have them coated via a third party in Nickel Boron, and top coat them with black Cerakote. Aluminum should be plenty strong for the extension. Aluminum extensions are used on the big bore AR15's without any issues. Titanium kind of limits your coating options, plus it's heavier than aluminum. Weight savings isn't that important due where the extension is located, but cumulatively, weight drops are important. I need a mill to finish this up though.

Thanks. Apparently this lathe spent its life in a hospital. It looks like it was barely even used. Sometimes the older equipment is better than the newer stuff. It's certainly better than the import crap. There isn't a single piece of plastic anywhere on this thing. These pictures are of it before it was cleaned up too.

Rut roh. If I'm reading the serial number correctly, this South Bend was produced in 1927. 600-700 pounds of fun. 9"x48". Got a steady rest coming in the mail.

Glad it helped you.

I'd agree with that assessment of the purpose. Many buyers are simply after the look and probably aren't aware of the functional benefits of the coating. I would argue that a buyer would be better off purchasing a black 11707, adding sufficient 922® compliant parts, and then performing the finish they desire afterwards. Even at today's pricing, that would be well under 3000 dollars and you would have a better weapon in the end. I would rather have the titanium aftermarket magazine tube over the steel OEM unit. Many of the H2O guns suffered fitting issues mainly in the trigger group assembly. Bottom line is, is sell the rare item and buy something functional. We're at a high note for the market right now. If you're selling, now is the time before prices stabilize. For those who want an H2O, build one yourself for much cheaper and end up with a better product in the end.

Anyone who is interested in the functional value of the H2O can have their own M4 coated to a superior level in my opinion. You can have a M4 coated in either NP3 or go the extra mile and have it done in Nickel Boron. The advantage to Nickel Boron is you aren't stuck with the nickel finish on the exterior of the weapon. Nickel Boron can be Cerakoted over in any color you want. The nickel finish is only of any real value on the internal parts. You also have the option of setting the M4 up the way you want before having any finish work done. You'll probably lay out about 500 dollars in custom finishing work. Compared to the price of an H2O, that's a steal. Im in the process of doing mine as we speak. Should be back around mid April.

I'd sell it. Considering the rarity, I believe you could get close to 4 grand out of it on chumpbroker. It might take a month or two to sell. Figure if it doesn't sell. You have to write up the listing well. The receiver is made from Mithril and blessed by the Guidish Elves from Italy. Many high quality pictures will help.

135 shipped. There is 60 dollars worth of small parts in it. I have the parts on hand. Could have it to you there in California by the middle of this coming week.

All of the internals can be purchased at Brownells fairly cheap. You'd need the following parts; 1. Recoil Spring 2. Recoil Plunger 3. Flexible Ring 4. Stock Retaining Screw 5. Stock Retaining Ring