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AggiePhil

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Everything posted by AggiePhil

  1. Is the cheek riser adjustable? Does its edge cut into your cheek any? It looks like it would. If I order the cheek riser model and then later decide that I don't like it, will I be left with the same stock as a non-cheek riser model when I remove it? Thanks.
  2. Pics of the Limbsaver Urbino please! Did yours come with the cheek riser? And all the guys bitching about the tools required to install the stock... It's a screwdriver. Not a big deal in my opinion. What's done is done and I'm just glad that someone has come out with a shortened LOP stock for this weapon system. We should be very grateful about that. Maybe an oversight but definitely not a FAIL.
  3. Download the Mesa catalog. For the rear, they make several QD options for the Urbino. For the front, they make a female QD option the mounts between the barrel and mag tube. Or you could mount some pic rail using either the KZ mount or the Surefire M80 handguard and then get a Daniel Defense or similar female QD mounting point that attaches to the rail.
  4. Yeah, I have three rebates listed. I believe I sent in two rebate forms. Only one of the listed rebates looks like it went through.
  5. Just when I was going to track down a phone number for the rebate jokers, I double checked the status of one of my three rebate claim numbers and saw this: Awesome! Just in time for Christmas!
  6. Unless I'm misunderstanding you, the problem you're going to face is that it gives you a MALE QD sling swivel. You'd want a female attachment point, which in the QD sling swivel world is generally a hard point. I recommend this particular product for attaching to the loop in the stock. It's ten bucks, loops right through there, and gives you a male Fastex buckle. All their slings are then compatible with it. http://www.originalsoegear.com/standard.html
  7. AggiePhil

    Hello

    Quit spamming the forum just to up your post count. Be patient, be a contributing member to the forum for a while, and privileges will come.
  8. StrangerDanger beat me to it. And oh...that part DOES count towards 922r compliance.
  9. 1. Where are you seeing that? 2. Looks to me like ALL of the ones Kip is selling are made of aluminum. 3. How much dedicated breaching do you do? I'm jealous.
  10. Pics of it on the gun. And why didn't you get the glass breaker?
  11. I agree, but since the GG&G product description doesn't warn you that you'll need a 3/32" roll pin punch, who wants to pay $100 for a part, wait a week, then have to order another part and wait another week just to install the first part? LOL. IMO, GG&G should include a punch along with this expensive ass item.
  12. Non-Limbsaver version starts shipping Monday. Limbsaver version is supposed to start shipping shortly thereafter. Maybe within a week or two I'm hoping.
  13. Well, even after purchasing a set of roll pin punches from Brownells, I wasn't able to get the pin out. Finally decided that I must have damaged it using the "improvised tool" (a flat blade precision screwdriver) and took it to a local gunsmith. He said that he actually drives the pins out from the top down, but even doing that, he wasn't able to get mine out. He finally had to use a Dremel (I'm guessing) and sacrifice the internal lever by cutting it apart in order to get the pin out of there. Told him I didn't care since we were replacing it anyway. Once he finally got everything out, the pin looked like it was buggered up pretty badly. But thank God I hadn't done any damage to the inside of the receiver. I can't stress enough that other people considering this modification realize how it isn't as easy to perform as it looks. If you don't have a 3/32" roll pin punch, don't even bother trying it. And even if you do have one, it probably isn't a bad idea to have a gunsmith do the job anyway. As I told my guy when I walked into his shop with a disassembled Benelli in one hand and a sad look on my face, "Ever heard the saying, 'Home gunsmiths keep real gunsmiths in business?'" Just my $0.02. YMMV.
  14. Yeah people talk about how soft shooting the M4 is but I really haven't found that to be true. Kicks like a mule. Now maybe the Mesa Urbino with Limbsaver recoil pad will be an improvement.
  15. How much length do these add to the gun Kip?
  16. Yep! Now, I don't really understand what all these products mean and how they work together, but I know they look pretty awesome! As far as I can tell, only the OEM style "flat front" brake is actually made by Carriercomp. Is that right? And is the accessory choke required in order to use one of the brakes? http://www.shop.carriercomp.com/category.sc?categoryId=6
  17. The peel-off adhesive panel is like no other I've ever seen. The company has been making these for many years and their adhesive technology is amazing. They make these for the DOD and numerous other LE/GOVT agencies so they definitely have their act together. I'm sure the adhesive can be removed but you'll probably need some GooGone and elbow grease to do it. I've never actually had to replace one of the receiver side velcro panels before though--they last! The elastic loops aren't standard elastic. They're super heavy-duty, are reinforced, and have some kind of lining on the inside that grips the shells. It's hard to describe in any way other than "extremely heavy-duty". Are you basing your opinion on experience with this product or pure conjecture? Like I said, 3GunGear side saddles are not made from standard elastic. I'm assuming that you've never owned one or you would know this. It's extremely heavy-duty reinforced elastic that holds the shells in there "rock solid" while still allowing them to move a little as the gun recoils. While the Sidearmor model may not have this problem, many side saddles tend to drop shells if not fully loaded as the gun recoils due to insufficient retention. This is not a problem with the 3GunGear model. One negative side effect that you did touch on is that it's somewhat difficult to load shells back into the 3GunGear side saddle. But this really isn't an issue if you understand how the product is meant to be used. The tear-off aspect of it is such that you can have additional shell cards stowed elsewhere on your person and once you have emptied the side saddle, you simply tear it off and slap a new one on. That will be faster than topping off ANY side saddle shell by shell. So it's actually a much faster system of ammo readiness than a traditional side saddle affords, which is just one more reason why I like it so much. Don't knock it till you tried it.
  18. HAHA...I was using 3GunGear side saddles on my pump guns before they were "cool".
  19. 3GunGear all the way. EXTREMELY high quality product. This ain't a cheaply sewn piece of nylon. We're talking extremely heavy duty stitching here. That's why they cost what they do. The weight savings and modularity is what I love about them. Couple that with the ability to use a CarrierComp picatinny rail if you so choose and you're set. Below is the 8 shell Benelli M4 model with the specific instruction "no forward receiver loop". Works like a charm.
  20. Jeez, you're scaring me. Especially considering how hard I had to pound on that improvised punch in order to get the roll pin to budge last night. I had the receiver standing upright on my workbench and I just hope like **** those forces weren't enough to bend the receiver any. I got worried when I saw that I'd loosened Kip's magazine tube (which I didn't use any Loctite on) and had twisted the buttstock where it meets the receiver. Never would have imagined it'd be this difficult to remove a little button.
  21. Thank you, I appreciate it. I will get the proper tool, even if I have to order it. Sucks, but I know the importance of having the proper tool for the job. I also tried dropping some Kroil down on the pin but I didn't do it until I was already pounding on the sucker. Once you figure out what size punch it is, do you have a preferred website for ordering them? Like I said, when I tried Sears and Harbor Freight, all they had were larger tapered punches. Nothing "precision".
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