Spike100

Check your Benelli Owner/Operator Manual for the part number. I’m not sure if this is a “glued” or “screwed” part. Replacement requires a request for the part number. You will get instructions with the part. --Spike

I doubt you will experience any problem with the “original” Vinci and its trigger guard. If it is just the trigger guard (and not the 3 1/2” shell capability), you do not need to pay extra $$’s to buy the Super Vinci. --Spike

Thanks for posting the pics. With the exception of the vegetation in the background, the sunflower field looks very much like what you see in SD. Questions… 1) What range (# of yards) is a typical shot? 2) What loads and choke are you using? I’m actually asking if dove shooting in South Africa is similar to that sport in the States. --Spike

^^ Hi Tim… Your reply provides excellent advice. I am a right-handed shooter, and right eye dominant. I do keep both eyes open (but squinting the left eye just a little). My foot position, weight distribution, and gun position (on the trap house) are as you suggest in your post. You are right-on, and those are the same principles I was taught fifty years ago when I first began shooting trap (and skeet). It’s nice to know in this rapidly changing digital age that some fundamentals remain constant and consistent. Here is a quote from your previous message… “[…] Its hard to describe, but your eyes, just before you call for the target, should not be focused on anything, and but should be looking about a foot above your bead, and about 10 yards out in front of the house. This is called "soft focus." This allows you to see the bird's direction, without seeing it as a "flash of orange." If you focus right at the corner of the house, you're going to see this flash of orange as the target emerges, and your brain will think "oh, sh!t I gotta hurry!" (this is generally true at all stations, btw.) Soft focus allows you to make a smooth, controlled move, instead of jerking and rushing to the target.” …which is wonderful advice that you describe very well. And I think you nailed my problem when you said: “Possibly, what is happening is your brain, when it loses sight of the target, thinks, "I gotta shoot now!" And you pull the trigger.” I believe that is exactly what is happening. I swing through the target, but suddenly the left barrel blocks the hard left target on Station 1. I lose sight of the target, and my instinct forces me to “reaquire” the target which results in “peaking” (slowing or almost stopping the gun). I never have the problem with a single-barrel gun or O/U. Thanks for the reply and great help which I appreciate, --Spike

Thanks guys. The suggestion that I shoot a few rounds on just station 1 and 2 is probably the solution. I don’t have any problem on Station 1 or 2 with my O/U or Benelli so it’s the S/S that is throwing me off. And than again… I probably should leave the S/S home when shooting trap, and use the double for hunting. --Spike

I know… if you just read the title of this post you are wondering why I would shoot trap with a side-by-side. Background info: I love hunting upland game birds and do this a lot. Depending upon the circumstances and the bird, I use either a two-barrel gun (usually a side-by-side) or an autoloader (my favorite for now is the Benelli Montefeltro, but planning to add a Vinci). When shooting trap or skeet, I use either a long-barreled and heavy Beretta O/U or a Benelli autoloader. I’m certainly not a great shot, but I score 23-25 (approximately 96 per 100) targets with occasional (4 or less rounds per week) shooting. So, here’s the deal: My dad (he’s 89 years old but in great shape… he still shoots trap and skeet very well… as good or better than I do) just purchased a very expensive 12 gauge S/S (modified/full) that he acquired (I’m certain) mainly to leave to me in his will. He said as much. So, here’s the problem: My 89 year-old dad is very disappointed with my scores (21 hits/4 misses) shooting the gun on trap. I keep telling him that there is no problem with the gun (it fits me perfectly), but it’s not the best choice for trap. The gun weighs just over 6 lbs. (so it is very light-weight for trap shooting… another disadvantage). And… my problem hitting trap targets with a side-by-side: I’m having an awful time with a S/S on Trap Station 1 with targets going hard left. On Trap Station 1, I hold on the left side of the house, and I see the target immediately, but when the target is going hard-left, and as I swing over and up on the target, the left barrel blocks my view and I lose the target. Any attempt to regain the lost target most certainly results in a miss. Before now, I have never shot trap using a S/S gun. I have no problem hitting pheasants with a S/S. I suppose it’s simply that a pheasant is a larger target that remains acquired with a side-by-side that might block-out a smaller target (i.e., clay pigeon). _____________________________ So… Any tips from the knowledgeable readers here are greatly appreciated. Of course I’m not planning to shoot trap with a S/S, but improving my score while Dad is watching would make him feel better about the expensive gun he purchased. How can I improve hits on trap targets going hard left when I am shooting on Station #1. Thanks for help, --Spike

^^ Good point... You can rent a gun (autoloader or O/U) for $50-$75) per day. It’s wise checking with the host/outfitter when transporting firearms to foreign countries. If I remember correctly, it’s very simple to bring a firearm into Argentina. You fill out one form and pay an entry/permit fee that is > $100 per gun. --Spike

^^ That makes sense. If I remember correctly it was awhile before Bennelli released a left handed version of the Montefeltro. Question: Do the left handed autoloaders have a “reversed” safety button? --Spike

I was not aware that a Super Vinci model for left-handed shooters exists. Are you sure about that? --Spike

I would consider taking an entire gun rather than just spare parts. You need at least two guns (but, I’m certain you already know this). Spare parts won’t help much while you are in the blind and shooting. If you have a stoppage in the “thick of battle,” you need a replacement gun since there is no time for a field repair. The one exception is a bolt handle (which is easily lost, and easily replaced). How many guns are you planning to take with you? --Spike

That statement is generally correct. Most misses are behind or below the target, and that happens for the same reason, which is stopping or slowing the swing. If you stop or slow the swing, you will obviously shoot behind the target, and also shoot low since the target is rising. The question is: Why does a shooter stop or slow swing the gun? The answer is: Some shooters tend to look at the front sight (bead) when tracking the target, and doing this causes in an attempt at alignment which often results in slowing the gun’s swing. After stopping your gun, the next reason you miss is canting your head over the stock. You can do this when shooting a rifle since you align a front and rear sight. But, tipping/canting your head when shooting a shotgun results in inconsistent hits. Your dominant eye is the rear sight on a shotgun, so you must have your head upright and consistently positioned in relation to the gun’s barrel. Tipping your head will also result in uneven swings (left/right and up/down) that defeat tracking targets consistently. --Spike

^^ Thanks for the reply. For sure an instructor tailoring the lesson after evaluating your strengths and weaknesses is desirable and produces the best result. And… I agree that coordinating gun mounting with sighting and rotation is the way you get consistent hits. Once a shooter understands the basic principles, it just takes practice. --Spike

Hi jfkoxford, You mention being pleased with the results of your sporting clay lesson. I share the same experience, but I would like to compare the specific instructions we both received that improved our shooting. Here are the two pieces that were most significant in increasing my percentage of hits in sporting clays. Synchronizing the rotation of my hips with my shoulders (while keeping my head rotating with my shoulders) is essential for consistent target-striking. Your upper body turns first, but never completely independent of the lower body. Your head must be “over the top” of the stock’s comb so that your right eye is aligned straight with your shotgun’s front sight without canting (tipping your head). Your right eye (for a right-handed shooter) serves as the rear sight. That’s why your head must be over the top of the stock and straight-up (and never canted). I’m curious if your instructor mentioned either of these points. --Spike

It depends upon the “culture” at the shooting club where you take the lesson, and upon the expertise level of your instructor. Actually, it’s not too different from taking a golf lesson. If you are planning a series of sessions from the same instructor, you certainly want to provide a gratuity that starts with lesson one, and continues-on consistently with each lesson. Twenty percent is very reasonable if that gets the best effort from your instructor, and it can even earn “extra lessons” or “after school” instruction. I never worry about a 20 percent increase in an investment that is producing significant benefit (profit). Don’t be stingy if the system is working. --Spike

For skeet, use anything from zero constriction (“cylinder”) to 5 thousandths (“skeet”) to 10 thousandths (improved cylinder). Stay closer to 10 thousandths if you shoot in windy conditions or use #8 shot. If you shoot #9 shot when there’s little wind, 5 thousandths or even less will work well. The best skeet shooters worry less about chokes (they often shoot tighter chokes to insure better patterns), and more about technique (setup position and rotation). Thanks for participating here, --Spike

I agree with tasum’s advice. You must swing through the target; never stop your gun (always swinging through the target after pulling the trigger). I try to have my belt buckle stay in sync with my barrel swing. Keep your weight forward (i.e., over your forward foot), and rotate at your waist. tasum also states: “Aim with the end of your barrel and keep your eye on the target.” That is precisely what you should do when shooting moving clays or live birds. You look at the target and track this with direct vision, but never look directly down the barrel. This concept is not easily explained, but basically if you look at the front sight of your shotgun, you will stop or slow your swing. You must always look at the target, and point your barrel at the target you are looking at. You will figure this out after shooting a few targets. Please let us know how you do on your first rounds. --Spike

Moderators, Is there a way to quickly eliminate sandy1110 participating here? She is posting junk. --Spike

Moderators, Is there a way to quickly eliminate sandy1110 participating here? She is posting junk. --Spike __________________________________________ EDIT: Wow! That was fast. My thanks to the Mods.

That should not be the case if you are inside a blind or in a stationary position (i.e., you are not “jump shooting”). If you do find yourself straining to achieve proper sighting/alignment, try determining swing planes in advance. Actually, “I find myself sometimes in wierd positions when im pulling up on ducks.....”, can be very dangerous when inside a blind with its tight confinements. You do not want to be doing any weird positions in this circumstance. --Spike

^^ --Spike

Yes... Read this guy's post and your reply... and he did remove his post when you quoted it and and provided a very good reply. --Spike

If I could only have three: Assault Rifle: AK-47 or AR-15 (16/18) (it’s all about firepower when you find yourself in a gun battle) Standard Rifle: A 30-06 with scope (best overall long-range and widely available cartridge for aliens or putting game on the table) Pistol: 45 ACP (if the aliens are big and tough) or 9mm (if the aliens are smaller but more plentiful) … And, if I could add a fourth: Shotgun: 12 gauge, autoloader or pump with an extended magazine Useful additions are body armor, night vision equipment, a whole bunch of clips, and a ton (literally) of ammo to feed your weapons. Of course you need a mule to carry all this stuff, so add a couple of donkeys or an armor-plated Suburban to the list. If it’s anarchy and chaos (Egypt, Bahrain, and Yemen for now, and possibly Tunisia, Lebanon, Syria and Iran in the near future), your immediate need is close-in protection. The best weapons here are an assault rifle (for firepower) backed-up by a pistol. You want to have weapons that overpower the enemy, and that is simply lots of firepower delivered by an automatic weapon. --Spike

I really like my Montefeltro (I have an early model) since I consistently hit wild pheasants with this gun. I suspect now it’s as mental/confidence thing that provides even better results. I need another autoloader for upland hunting, and that’s why I’m looking at the new Benelli Ultra Light and the Vinci. The Ultra Light feels (when mounting and pointing) very similar to my Montefeltro (which I dearly love), except that it’s about a pound lighter. Since I always hunt with a dog, I’m the guy that walks through the cornfield, works the CRP, etc. …working the birds towards the lazy-ass blockers waiting to capitalize on my sweat-effort. A 6 pound gun looks very attractive to the guy who spends his entire day walking and carrying the gun. But, the Vinci (which is a little heavier) feels so good… mounts so easily… points so well. cannot decide. I’ll probably end up buying two guns. --Spike

I am still shooting the Montefeltro I purchased years ago when Benelli introduced this gun. It remains my preferred all-around hunting gun. I’m going to purchase another Benelli for upland game, and am trying to decide between the Ultra Light and the Vinci. --Spike

I agree. It can be very distracting when your neighbor in a duck blind or the trap line is shooting a gun with a short barrel. It can get loud, and disconcerting if your feel any percussion. BTW: I had a Browning A-5 years ago and loved the gun, but never quite mastered those recoil rings. --Spike