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Spike100

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Everything posted by Spike100

  1. That is very good shooting, especially at your age. I've been shooting trap for years and happy with a 24. My personal best on 100 targets is 97 (not as good as your score). Professional and high-end trap shooters will break 200 or even more targets without a miss, but they shoot an enormous number of targets to reach this level. --Spike
  2. ^^ I do the same (lower barrel first) when I shoot an O/U when hunting, for the reason you mention. When shooting a side-by-side (S/S), I fire the outside barrel (the right hand barrel) first. I do this is simply because my two-trigger S/S is setup so the forward trigger fires the right side barrel. My SKB side-by-side has a selective single trigger, but I still fire the right barrel first for consistency. When shooting a S/S, and if you are a right-handed shooter, firing the right barrel produces slightly less perceived recoil since the gun tends to move away from your face. Some S/S shooters prefer the gun moving inwards, and they fire the inside barrel first thinking that provides better control by keeping the gun tight to the side of their face for a better second shot. A straight grip or “English grip” (vs. a pistol grip) provides a more comfortable angle for your wrist when carrying a gun in the field, and that’s one reason many hunters like this style of stock. A straight grip is certainly better for a two-trigger gun. The Prince of Wales Grip is somewhere between a straight grip and a pistol grip. The Prince of Wales Grip is thin and less angled than a pistol grip, but still allows enough “play” for your rear hand to provide a comfortable carry and operate two-triggers. It’s a good compromise for shooters who prefer the precision of a pistol grip but want the comfortable carry of a straight grip. With this said, I favor an auto-loader for quail hunting (or any hunting with the opportunity for shots on multiple birds. The advantages of an autoloader: -Three or more shots -Less recoil allowing the shooter to remain on a single target or pickup the next target When I shoot my Montefeltro, my hunting companions who use two-barrel guns accuse me of being a “meat hunter” or “machine gun hunter.” But, when the day is done, I always do much better (more birds) with the Benelli. --Spike
  3. ^^ When you say "English stocks" are you describing a straight grip (no pistol grip)? Why do you switch to O/U's when hunting with friends? --Spike
  4. Thanks for your thorough and accurate reply. You provide some great information. I did hope for comments from Kyle58962, but he is not responding. --Spike
  5. Questions… 1. Which model of the Remington 11-87 do you prefer for clay targets? 2. What configurations (barrel length, choke, rib, etc.) do you recommend for trap, skeet, sporting clays? --Spike
  6. If there is any single advantage people mention for a two barrel gun (O/U or S/S) it's reliability. The same is true for a pump gun (they rarely fail to operate). The pump gun has an additional advantage by providing an additional shot(s) past the two shots you have with a two barrel gun. You mention “I grew up with an 870”. I think this is a significant point. Shooters who start out with a pump gun do not seem to have a problem. Hunters not accustomed to operating a pump often have problems handling this gun (adjusting to the recoil, operating the pump while maintaining the sight picture and remaining on the target for the next shot, etc.). Shooting doubles in trap and skeet are ways to learn operating a pump gun. --Spike
  7. I decided to test your advice. I picked up a box of 3" steel (1-1/8 oz, 1500 fps). I wanted to try #3 shot, but the store only had #2. I tested the loads this morning on released pheasants at the game farm so that I could evaluate this under “controlled” conditions. Although the shots were right off my Brittany spaniels’ point, I waited… and waited… until the bird was out near 40+ yards out (well OK… I did get excited on a couple of flushes and shot close, but I maintained control for the remaining birds to test longer shots). I can say with absolute certainty that your advice is right on. If you want to kill pheasants with steel shot at 40+ yards, use a 3” shell loaded with minimally #3 shot and a powder dram weight that gets your load moving near 1500 fps. You are also correct about the recoil. It isn’t bad with an autoloader (I used a Benelli Montefeltro with a modified choke). I would not want to shoot this load in a two barrel gun or a pump gun, but it’s very manageable in a Benelli recoil operated gun. --Spike
  8. ^^ Thanks for the reply. I’m trying to arrange a late season hunt in SD. I’ll be hunting private land and the public areas. On late season birds and when I can shoot lead, I use 2-3/4 shells (1500 fps) loaded with 1-1/4 oz. (4’s or 6’s) shot and an IM choke. That seems to be very effective even on the longer (40+ yards) shots. It’s when using steel shot in areas requiring nontoxic loads where I am having a problem with last season long shots. I’ve been shooting 2-3/4, 1400 fps, 1-1/8 oz., #4 shot. That proves to be a poor choice that results in cripples and a lot of chasing “runners” for my dog (or worse, wounded birds that glide away). I detest leaving a wounded animal in the field. I’m going to try your suggestion, FASTEEL 3" 1500 fps loads (1-1/8 oz.) with a modified choke. I’ll probably go with the #3 shot. I suspect you are right. When shooting steel, a faster load with larger shot will do appreciably better at longer range. I’ve always believed that the number of pellets is important. You get more pellets with steel than lead in the same ounce load, so 2’s or 3’s should be fine. It’s only that you need the 3” shell to fit all the shot and enough drams of powder to achieve 1500 fps velocity. I appreciate your help. I probably would not have gone to a 3” shell without reading your comments. It makes a lot of sense. --Spike
  9. ^^ Thanks for the reply, and good info. A couple of questions… 1. You mention shooting 3” shells, so that must be the FASTEEL® Waterfowl loads. Do you recall which shot charge (1-3/8 oz, 1-2/8 oz, or 1-1/8 oz.) you were shooting? 2. What choke did you use with your steel loads and the Vinci? I ask because I’m shooting 4’s with IC for my non-toxic loads. One reason I use steel 4’s is the game farm requires this limit (I suppose it is to prevent excessive carry and avoid spraying shot onto the adjoining field and its hunters). I notice that this load (steel 4’s) with IC isn’t very effective at 40 yards or longer. I’m guessing that I would have better results with 3’s or 2’s (not sure what choke I should use) when shooting steel shot on wild birds where nontoxic shot is required. The 3” FASTEEL® Waterfowl loads have higher velocity than the same weight loads in the FASTEEL® Upland loads (which are only available in 2-3/4” shells and 5’s and smaller shot size). Your comments, advice, and experience are very much appreciated. --Spike
  10. Hi, I read your question and would like to respond. I use a heavy O/U for skeet. My choice is based in the good info that BlackDogs3 mentions (better follow through on crossing targets, and the capability to fit barrel tubes allowing a single gun for all gauges using the same gun). Another significant advantage a two barrel gun provides when shooting skeet is better reliability. It’s a big disappointment if your autoloader misfeeds when executing a high/low house dual shot. When shooting trap, I prefer an autoloader that is around 8 pounds and has a long barrel with a vented rib.. I don’t seem to feel the gun’s weight when shooting skeet (even when shooting a lot of targets), but to me a 10 pound gun feels very heavy after shooting even just 75 targets in trap. When shooting a lighter gun in trap, the autoloader provides the advantage of less perceived recoil, and the overall result is less fatigue from the reduced weight and the reduced recoil that you get shooting an autoloader. With this said and as BlackDogs3 points out, you do have the obligation of not disturbing the shooter who is on the next station. It can be very distracting if the shooter on your left continually throws shells towards you. There is a rhythm you notice on a well-behaved trap-line, and you do not want to disrupt this. One shooter that messes up the timing can adversely affect the entire squad. A shell catcher eliminates the problem, but some shooters don’t want the additional hardware on their gun. My Montefeltro throws the shell out laterally and slightly rearward, so mercifully I’ve never had other shooters in the squad complain. I cannot say for sure if other Benelli autoloaders do this. --Spike
  11. ^^ Thanks for the update. Fiocchi Golden Pheasant #6 is also my favorite load for pheasants. I cannot provide any scientific statistics/basis for that preference, but they seem to be effective even at longer range (>40 yards, but I’m shooting modified or even IM when shots get this long, and that is on wild birds). You mention the Vinci and seem to like this gun. I’m very near to making this purchase. I really like the feel and the natural way the Vinci “comes-up” when mounting the gun. Question: Do you have any criticisms of the Vinci or a feature you do not like? --Spike
  12. ^^ Thanks for the reply. I completely neglected mentioning the venerable pump-gun. That was a big oversight on my part since you remind me that the SD locals frequently used a pump for its reliability and 5 shots when the limit matched that number in the 50’s and early 60’s and the “Soil Bank” era of great pheasant hunting in SD. --Spike
  13. I have experienced the problem you describe. I don’t think your problem is “light loads” since the gun is ejecting the spent shell. If there is excessive drag/friction on the bolt’s movement, your recoil-operated shotgun may not load the next shell reliably. My fix for this problem is thoroughly cleaning the gun after each use and then applying a light amount of gun oil onto the bolt-rail. Since the gun-oil attracts debris, it’s important to clean this off (the oil you placed on the bolt-rail) after each use; and then reapply the oil so that the bolt returns smoothly and with adequate force to load the next shell. It would be very helpful if you can verify this or provide the steps you finally take to fix the problem. --Spike
  14. I agree. I’m old and have owned many shotguns, and admit a prejudice for two barrel guns, but the Benelli is the best autoloader I’ve owned. It has great balance for an autoloader and comes up smoothly for upland game hunting. The auto-mechanism (recoil-operated) is nearly perfect. It’s a very reliable autoloader. I have the Montefeltro and just love this gun. My next purchase will be the Vinci. --Spike
  15. First of all please accept my sincere empathy for your loss. Loss of vision is horrible, but you certainly have a healthy attitude when asking about solutions. You state losing vision in your dominant left eye, and that “ have had to switch to my right side.”, but did not mention if you are right of left handed shooter. If you were a right-handed shooter with a left dominant eye that you lose, you may find that you actually shoot better now. Alignment is far more significant than depth perception when shooting targets (stationary or moving). Cross-dominance (“cross-sighting’) is a big problem when the dominant eye is different from the handedness (i.e., right handedness with left ocular dominance, or vice versa). A much larger obstacle is switching to right-handed shooting if you were a left-handed shooter with a left dominant eye that you lose. Of course the same scenario applies to the opposite side shooter forced to change sides. --Spike
  16. When shooting upland game with a two barrel gun, I use a side-by-side Beretta Silver Hawk 12 gauge or a SKB side-by-side 20 gauge. Both guns are equipped with an English style straight-stock (no pistol grip) and splinter fore-end. I shoot magnum loads (2 ¾” in the 12 gauge and 3” in the 20 gauge) when hunting pheasants in SD. The stock configuration makes either of these a great “carry gun” that mounts quickly and consistently, but the recoil with a gun weighing only 6 pounds is punishing. Neither of my two barrel guns has a recoil-reduction device. A few years ago I began using an autoloader (Benelli Montefeltro 12 gauge) for pheasants and really like the reduced recoil and the extra (third) shot. I’m considering another purchase, and the Benelli Vinci is attractive because of my positive experience with the Montefeltro. So… My question: Do you prefer a two barrel gun or an autoloader for pheasant hunting? Obviously there is not right answer since I am asking for opinions, but certainly preferences for using the different style of guns would be interesting. --Spike
  17. Hi, Thank you for your very thorough review of the Benelli Vinci. I shot the Vinci and am very interested in this gun, and your posting is useful. I must say you did a great deal of work testing this gun in a short timeframe. You bought the gun on Saturday, OCT 09 2010 and returned the gun on Monday OCT 11 2019, and apparently did a great deal of testing between those times. ________________________ RE> “Upon first feel the VINCI shouldered nicely and “fit” very well (I shoot with both eyes open) and includes four shims, the fit and finish is very good, along with the balance and swing feel.” And, “Regarding F&F I believe the VINCI is remarkable with respect to feel.” Same here… The Vinci comes up very well for a semi-automatic shotgun. I prefer a two barrel gun for its feel and better mounting when hunting, but the Vinci is very good (and as good as an auto loader can feel). ________________________ RE> “The first time I assembled the gun (actually Gun Store Gunsmith did it) it was a major PITA (pain in the arse) including disassembly. The second time was a bit easier, however; you can trust me in saying the VINCI takes a lot of grit and strength to assemble the barrel and stock combo and then attach the receiver assembly while trying to push buttons and twist locking mechanisms. For the record, I have taken the gun apart and put together about ~ten plus times and it gets a easier and easier each time you do it.” Again… I agree. Anytime you have a new gun and do this, it will take some amount of practice. I remember well the exercise doing a field strip and reassembly of your weapon in the military when you were required to accomplish this blindfolded. Civilians obviously are not going to go to this extent, but you get the idea. You mention that after a short amount of practice, you became very proficient. ________________________ RE> “One other item I noticed was the safety is in front of the trigger assembly and it tends to be a bit of a struggle to push it from safe to fire." It’s interesting that you mention this because I have the Montefeltro, that has its safety at the rear of the trigger guard, and I would like the safety moved to the front of the trigger guard (as it is with the Vinci). I wouldn’t think wearing a glove makes as much difference as becoming accustomed to the safety’s position. It’s more personal preference than anything. In fact my preference is a tang-mounted safety, but that is not an option on the majority of auto-loading shotguns. ________________________ RE> “Oh yea, the red bar front site is another issue I had on the first day – it’s gone! The front site slipped out of the metal holder and is lost – again a bit of a disappointment in my book." Yikes… OK… I’m attributing this to an acrylic part that lacks an adequate friction-fit to its metal holder. It failed due to differential contraction and expansion of acrylic and metal. Mercifully that is easily fixed. ________________________ RE> “Also, I was placing the gun in my traveling gun case and noticed a wrinkle in one of the rubber gaskets on the stock, I pushed it back into the stock, however; I still see a bit of a bulge in the rubber that came unglued (?) from the rear left side of the stock.” Not to worry… It’s likely a design feature to handle temperature extremes. ________________________ Again, thanks for your very complete review. You have convinced me that the Vinci will be my next shogun purchase. --Spike
  18. Interesting you mention that (using different loads) since that is something I also do and believe it is an effective configuration. Even for “normal-range” pheasants when I see the second shot becoming longer, I’ll load #6’s in the chamber of my autoloader, and put #4’s in the magazine. Of course a two barrel gun is a natural for this type of control in shot selection, but it really isn’t that big a hassle with a semi automatic gun. Even if you get the shells confused it isn’t as though # 4 won’t be lethal at 25 yards. --Spike
  19. ^^ Good point… That’s the advantage of a two barrel gun. You have a tighter choke for your second (and presumably longer) shot. With an autoloader (e.g., my Montefeltro), I was considering improved-modified as a good compromise between a potentially closer shot (inside 30 yards) and the more common long shots you get late-season. I do like having that extra (third) cartridge for longer range shots. Bagging long range pheasants (>40 yards) seems to require multiple hits. --Spike
  20. Hi… I’ve reserved a farm in SD for a late season pheasant hunt (mid-December). Hopefully there isn’t a blizzard or heavy snowfall that ruins this trip. We are advised that the birds will be very wild. I’ve seen this before after doing a few late season hunts over the last 50 years. The land-owner says we should expect very wild birds and we will have 35-50 yard shots at best. My typical pheasant setup is a Benelli Montefeltro with a modified choke and 1 ¼ ounce 6’s. I’m considering an improved-modified choke and #4 shot for this hunt. Any advice or opinions are welcome. I’ve tried various loads for late season hunts (even 3 inch magnum 2’s), but would like to hear from others who have done long-range late-season upland bird shooting. --Spike
  21. I think you are right-on and answer your own question very well. The intermediary bead is there as an alignment aid. It helps you practice mounting the gun and insuring you are looking straight down the barrel. Think of it as only a check-point to aid an accurate gun mount insuring your rear sight (your dominant eye) is aligned properly to the front sight. You wisely mention canting as a problem. In fact canting is one reason shooters will consistently miss targets. The intermediary bead provides a way to check for this fault when you practice mounting the gun. --Spike
  22. I suppose it depends upon what you are shooting and your target. When shooting a rifle, you have two sighting reference points, the rear and front site. You align the two sites and shoot to hit your target. When shooting a shotgun you also have two sighting reference points, but the rear sight is where you hold your head. There is no rear sight on a shotgun. If your shotgun has an intermediary sight/bead, it is only an aid for alignment to help you align the gun to your sight/shooting plane. You should never look at the intermediary bead when actually shooting. When aiming your shotgun, you should not “see” the front sight or an intermediary sight, but instead simply look at the target over the top of your barrel/front sight. When shooting at a moving target, and you look at the front bead or intermediary bead on your barrel, you will inadvertently stop your gun and therefore miss the target by shooting behind the “bird.” --Spike
  23. I would like to thank the people responding to my thread about stoppages with the Montefeltro. Your advice and instructions have solved my problem. I’m a little “old school,” and had the best result with my previous gas operated auto-loading shotguns running dry (no lubricant) when shooting under conditions where debris quickly builds up on an oiled surface. That is why I thoroughly cleaned any oil-lubricant from my Montefeltro and ran the gun “dry.” Obviously the Benelli guns are different. Everyone responding seems to state that my theory of operating the gun “dry” is why I am experiencing a problem. That advice also matches the instructions in the Montefeltro’s Owner Manual. So I followed the advice I received here (a light oil coat applied to the bolt’s slide) on my hunt today. The gun worked perfectly. I really like this type of Forum where advice is delivered quickly, and the result is solving problems. --Spike
  24. Thanks for your reply, advice and experience. I appreciate that you took the time to post such a detailed message. Your advice matches what tucker301 recommends. RE> Normally I oil all the insides and wipe most of the oil off but leave just a trace on the grooves inside the chamber that the bolt rides in. That is good advice. You are placing lubricant where the Montefeltro requires less friction for its sliding bolt. I’m putting a couple of drops there for my hunt this Tuesday. Thanks for help, --Spike
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