ClackClackBAM
-
Posts
331 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
9
Posts posted by ClackClackBAM
-
-
@StrangerDanger, what do you think about this system?
-
Yikes... I'd definitely reach out to Benelli on this. The warranty begins from the day you buy the firearm new from an authorized Benelli distributor.
Just be able to provide proof of purchase and you should be all set.-
2
-
-
I use a Pelican 1720 for actual travel, but for just trips to the range I pack the M4 into a First Tactical Rifle Sleeve. It works very well, the gun is nicely balanced.
-
1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:
The pistons are designed to be self cleaning. This is why it has those cuts around the pistons. As it cycles, the pistons scrape off the carbon build up and deposit it on the inside of the handguards. I went for 2000 rounds over the course of about 18 months without cleaning the M4. This particular M4 had nickle boron plated pistons. At the end of my little test, it was still functioning just fine. I just got bored and wanted to clean it.
Almost no one ever disassembles the ARGO plugs either. There are spring loaded cups inside of there that deal with the same carbon build up. You can't really clean them assembled. Even soaking in an ultrasonic tank does little and usually just leaves solvent inside the plugs.
That's what I was originally thinking. I didn't want to pull my system completely apart.
Since my M4 doesn't have a fancy coating, should I clean it more often? -
Good to know, thank you! Have you found any problems with your gun should it not be cleaned that often?
-
So from everything I have read, I've learned that it's almost never necessary to completely pull the gun apart for routine cleaning.
Any idea when it would be necessary to do something like this? -
Hmm... I guess I'll just tighten it as far as it will go then make my measurements. And even if it's off a little bit, backing it out slightly won't be a problem. It's still sealed up pretty well.
-
^This.
Remove the bolt then put the receiver in a vice. If you focus the heat right on where the tube meets the receiver, it will warm up fast and minimize the risk to your finish. -
5 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:
You’ll have a hard time changing batteries since the batteries come out from under the lamp head, not the tail cap. You’d have to dismount the entire weapon light mount.
On mine I had them painted in cold cure Cerakote after the machining.
I was wondering about that.
Not too worried though. Those batteries last for a while and I won't be using the light very often. May be more of a pain to change the batteries but I'd rather that than remove the cool knurling. -
After looking closer at the photos, it appears that I only have to machine down the knurling so that it will fit. In that case, I might just measure out where the light will be on the gun then file down the knurling in the spot that would be causing a problem.
-
On 6/9/2020 at 11:41 PM, StrangerDanger said:
The 1500 isn’t that bad. When I compared it to my IB models, it didn’t seem like it was double the output. There is also some technique with a weapon light of any output. Only run the light as little as possible. Keep the muzzle low so you’re reflecting light off of the ground rather than straight on with walls. Movement with a weapon light is key. You should never have the light clicked on and wandering around. It should be brief stick and move output. This is where momentary light control is critical any why I dislike tape switches. The tape switches have dead spots and unreliable activation points. Even the expensive ones like TAPS aren’t great. The Surefire tailcap is ideal for momentary control.
Hmm, I see.
I would still like to go with the M600IB but maching it seems annoying. I can have a friend do it, but will I lose the black anodizing? Is it possible to recolor it? -
1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:
Then I realized there are better options out there and never looked back. That dumb choice has probably cost them well over a hundred grand in product.
He's right.
There are MANY better options that cost way less than LaRue. -
3 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:
There is definitely an issue with the polymer trigger frames and the FFT trigger kit. Same kit will drop right in on a OEM aluminum frame or the A&S Engineering frame. If you’re going the FFT route and have a polymer frame, expect to buy the A&S frame too.
He's right. I found that out the hard way last week.
I'm not broken up about it though, that A&S frame is really nice. -
Ah I see. Maybe he'd get lucky and have a friend who will loan the receiver with the tube so a shop can copy.
Probably better just buying one though.
-
I was wondering what the costs would be.
Sounds like it's better to just search for the actual tube. Or buy an M4 that's not the 1014 model. -
13 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:
Yes, but it isn’t an easy task. You have to heat the extension with a torch to get it to loosen up. The biggest issue is locating a receiver extension that is milled to allow the stock to collapse.
Can't he just take his extension to a shop to have it milled?
-
17 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:
They have held up for me and they’re supposedly potted like all the other Scout lights. You will need to modify the light to fit the Benelli though. The knurling will need to be machined off.
Most users are better off going with the Duel Fuel model that requires no modifications.
I like the Dual Fuel model but 1,500 lumens is way too much for a home defense weapon, IMO. If I am waking up in a black room in the dead of the night then turning that thing on, I'll be completely blinded.
-
Stranger, will those SureFire lights with the Intellibeam be able to handle the recoil of a 12 gauge?
I’d like to put a scout light on my M4 but if I’m going to be adding weight, I want it make sure it’s a light that I’ll never need to replace.
-
Thank you!!
-
15 hours ago, rhodesengr said:
yes if you buy the Cylinder version. The part number I quoted is the Cylinder version that fits a Super Nova. If you post what model you have, i can help with the correct part number. For Super Nova, it comes in Cyl or Extra Full. You can not shoot slug with the Extra Full.
Oh good call! I've got an M4, so it would need to be Cyl.
-
3 minutes ago, StrangerDanger said:
Not super hard. I have done a few with a Dremel with a pen attachment tool so you’re using it like a pencil. You’d mark out the spot with masking tape so you have a guide to follow. The goal then is to mill out that spot to a depth that seat the switch flush if the plastic is deep enough. The ones I did were up where your thumb rests on the forearm if you do the thumbs forward hold. You then have momentary control of the light with your support hand thumb.
Hmm.. I think I know my next project. I have a trl-1 hl that needs a new home.
-
2 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:
Do you need the QD socket? They could always be cut off if unneeded.
Mounting to the OEM forearm is tricky with screws. You have to be careful of what’s on the inside. Milling our a recess for a tape switch is doable. Stick some Velcro with an adhesive back inside the hole to offer a flush mount for the switch.
How difficult is it to mill the forearm?
-
It looks absolutely badass. Can it shoot slugs though?
*edit- it cannot shoot slugs. Like it but I'll pass.
-
11 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:
It's a Wilton 63199#1745 Tradesman Vise. US production model.
Holy crap... those things are $$$$$
Is this M4 a special edition?
in Benelli
Posted
Nice pick! It's not a special edition but it does have some nice parts on it.
Did the owner say how many rounds are through it?