ClackClackBAM
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Posts
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Posts posted by ClackClackBAM
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1 hour ago, ClackClackBAM said:
Ouch. Sorry bud.
On the bright side, that Briley trigger is sweeett!I guess my edit didn't take.
Try reaching out to Todd at FFT. He's very open to working with customers, so I'm sure he'll take care of you. -
Ouch. Sorry bud.
On the bright side, that Briley trigger is sweeett! -
48 minutes ago, River61 said:
I am looking at the Benelli M4 H2O Cerakote Titanium with pistol grip and standard stock. Is this legal in California? Thanks.
No. In fact, it's so illegal that CA tasks ISPs with reporting CA residents who are searching for info on this gun.
They're probably already on their way to your house. Good luck man.-
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Damn Stranger, that's an awesome setup!
I don't have room for that quite yet, so for now I'm just looking for a cleaning mat. Do you know of any that have an M4 design similiar to what TekMat makes? -
10 hours ago, MNtadpole said:
Those slings are only $45? I thought they were more expensive than that. I have to check those out.
Well I got lucky and snagged one on Amazon when the price dropped to $45.
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9 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:
The talcum powder acts as a lubricant on the polymers which minimizes the squeeze. We use it on leather holsters that sound like the old floor boards of an old west saloon. You don't need much.
AH! Okay, that makes sense. Thank you, I'll be sure to try it!
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9 hours ago, StrangerDanger said:
I'd modify the polymer housing before changing the hammer geometry. Your local smith would probably be willing to open it up more for you. I'd gladly do it for the cost of return shipping. If you want the A&S, I'd gladly swap the parts for you for the same deal. The A&S is the ideal route to go to be rid of that polymer crap.
That would be awesome!! If you can message me your address I'll get it out to you today. Let's go with modifying the OEM housing for now. If that doesn't work, I'll buy the A&S then have it shipped directly to you.
3 hours ago, Steve Rose said:Are you sure the width of the hammer is the issue? A hammer disconnector hook that is too tall can hold the hammer back like the picture you posted – but you will NOT be able to pull the hammer back up the correct position after cocking the hammer.
If you CAN pull the hammer up into the correct “cocked” position then the “too wide” diagnosis is probably the right one. Coat the hammer with a black or blue Sharpie marker then install it. Functioning the hammer a few cycles will wear the marker color and show you where any contact is occurring.
I"m pretty positive, yes. I replaced the FFT hammer with the factory version but didn't change anything. Once it was put back together I was not able to replicate the problem no matter what I did.
That said, it's still possible the gunsmith I went to didn't install everything correctly. I'm shipping it to Stranger though, so I'm sure that once I get it back, everything will be installed correctly.
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19 minutes ago, Milspec said:
There goes the NP3 plating.
That's my concern too. I would rather shave the OEM housing to accommodate this hammer.
11 minutes ago, Sigfla said:Send it to Stranger!
I was just thinking that, actually.
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12 minutes ago, MNtadpole said:
When I did my 922(r) assembly, I chose the A&S route too. Kinda stinks that he might be pushed into that direction...especially since it's another $220. On the bright side, he does get another +1 in 922(r) compliance with the A&S!
I'd rather not get the A&S if I don't have to. And I'm all set on 922(r).
There has to be a way to make this fit the OEM housing.-
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1 hour ago, StrangerDanger said:
Sprinkle some talcum powder on the forearm and brush the dust in where the halves join together and at fore and aft of the forearms where they make contact with the barrel and receiver.
Also try to seat the forearm as far into the barrel hangers as possible, then seat it into the receiver hanger as you tighten the magazine cap.
Alright, I'll pick some up and try this. What should I be looking for?
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Would it be better to just shave the housing?
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26 minutes ago, StrangerDanger said:
Looks like you’re hung up on the disconnector when the shotgun cycles. I have had to fit a few oem trigger frames where you mentioned before as well. I think we had another user report issues with the polymer trigger frame a few months back. We ended up fixing it by installing an A&S trigger frame.
Yup. The hammer seems to get pushed down too far then catches on the disconnector. Being too wide for the frame isn't helping either. Simple fix though, I'll just have a gunsmith shave down one side of the hammer so that it matches my OEM's width. The OEM hammer is back in and now the gun works well. I've tried to get it to hang up again but I cannot.
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Def want to give a shoutout to Todd from FFT. We've been texting back and forth throughout this process and his help absolutely made this a lot easier!
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Okay, so I think I isolated the problem.
The new hammer is MUCH thicker than the factory version. I swapped the old one back in without changing making any other changes. The hammer will still go lower but now it pops back up on its own. If it doesn't go up by itself, pulling the trigger sends it forward.
Put everything back in the gun and now I am unable to replicate the original issue.
While the hammer was out I saw where the gunsmith tried to shave down the housing on both sides. Instead of shaving that down, I'll have a gunsmith make the hammer narrower.
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Sent a video to Todd and he is pretty certain the issue is isolated to the hammer. I need to measure it against the stock hammer to see if it's too thick. If it is, shaving it down a little bit should solve the problem.
Here are some pictures so that you can see what it's doing:
Where it SHOULD be
Where it's ending up:
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He was surprised that the gunsmith would do that, especially without even consulting me first.
This is all in my OEM trigger housing. Never had this problem with the stock trigger, hammer, disconnecter, so I'm guessing something wasn't installed correctly.
I pulled the trigger group and found that the hammer is getting pushed further down than it should. My guess is that racking the BCG again is enough to jolt it back into position. Just took a video of it and sent to Todd, so we'll see what he says. I contacted the gun shop that installed all of this but they are closed at the moment, so hopefully I'll hear back tomorrow.
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Hey all, just got back from the range and am having a serious problem with the M4.
Last Saturday I had a gunsmith put in my FFT trigger pack. I went to test the trigger when I got it back and found that unless I sent the bolt home from all the way back on the receiver, the trigger wouldn't do anything. The gunsmith assured me that this was normal for an M4 and that you can't half-close the bolt then expect it to fire. I had a feeling he was wrong but I decide to trust him. He also said that he had to shave something (can't remember what) to make it all fit in there. Never bothered to call me to ask permission, which irritated me.
Today when I went to the range I had a bigger problem. While the gun cycles just fine, it will NOT fire the second round. First round goes bang, ejects, then the second round is loaded. Even though the bolt went all the way back then forward, pulling the trigger gets me a click and I THINK the hammer drops, but there are NO marks on the primer of the shell.
I called Todd at FFT and he said he's never heard of this happening before. Suggested that maybe the guy either removed too much material from whatever he had to shave down, or that maybe the springs were mixed up and put into the wrong spot.
Has this happened to anyone else?
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Tango Arms was my next stop, but I really don't want to pay that much for them. I can stipple it myself.
Maybe I'll just look for a cheap set of OEM foregrips on ebay or something. I seem them all the time, so it' shouldn't be expensive.
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40 minutes ago, jimbo45 said:
Keep both and leave the green one on the m4
That's kinda where I'm at now. I figure $45 isn't a lot compared to how much I've already spent on this gun haha
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Yup, tried that but I'm still having a problem. Think I might have more luck with the FFT grip?
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Has anyone else experienced this? Each time I put a firm grip on it, it creaks and I can feel the two pieces pushing in towards the center.
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40 minutes ago, mickey d said:
If you plan on humping the m4 wearing camo, the green would be a better choice.
Eh, probably will never happen. I just like the color difference.
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2 hours ago, MNtadpole said:
What kind of mag tube are you using?
It's the Benelli 7 round tube.
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Here's a better comparison. I'm now learning towards the green.
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Killed my M4 today.
in Benelli
Posted
Well the problem wasn't with the FFT parts. My OEM housing has an issue and I'm about to contact Benelli to address it.