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M4 failure to cycle


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So I was at the range with some friends 3 weeks ago. Temp was about 12f. Anyway the bolt was occasionally getting stuck 95% recoiled. Just a tap on the handle and it'd continue forward and grab the shell fine.


Time to switch to 0w-30 for the winters? :rolleyes:


But seriously is there an oil formulated for colder temps as such?

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Winchester universal's 1,1/8oz 2.75 shells, I believe. I also had a box of 1oz remmi's. Which i forgot about until now. I bet those were the cause. I wanted to see how they fired. In the beginning nothing phased it. So I forgot about them, and the colder it got the more shells mixed as I wasn't taking my gloves off and just dumping boxes.


I bet it iced up a bit from the heat of the earlier rounds and at those temps it just wasn't enough to cycle it later.


File this one under oops.

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What is the round count on the weapon? Newer M4's should be broken in with a 100 - 200 high brass rounds.


The cold weather could affect the cyclic rate depending on what oils you're using. I couldn't recommend a cold weather lube since I'm from Arizona...


I use this oil. It claims it's good to -100 degrees.


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Hmm never heard about the break in comment before. Mine are all low brass. Do you have any links to info behind the break in theory?


I'm cautious because of the 'break in' people ( low end manufacturer's) try to push on AR's to lower the useful life of the barrel, and finish cleaning it out for them. I assume that's not as big of a deal with a shotgun?

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Any new gun is going to have a break-in period before it will run smoothly (and eat lower power loads). The surfaces have to smooth out and the springs have to take a set. As far as ammo goes though, use Federal bulk-pak, its a little hotter and runs in most semi-autos very well. Winchester ammo is usually a bit doggy in gas-operated semiautos.

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