M4 ejection port/action metal mashed from spent shells

[Unobtanium]

I know that a M4 alloy receiver will last much past 20000 rounds, but from a cosmetic view it is prone to get scratches and small deformations during normal or combat use.

It can also become dirty from fouling, as well as a bit oily from the lubricant used to aid proper function.

If you want it to remain perfect---don't use it.

Here are a few pictures of a $2600 rifle I took to a carbine course. I babied it pretty well, I think, although I did jam the muzzle through some windshields, bump a few barricades, and the receiver spent a bit of time rubbing against my gear belt. That sparkly/sand-like stuff you see on the shot I took of the BUIS is shattered glass particles/dust from windshields and passenger windows.

 

It still works, though, and I'm sure it's going to get the crap knocked out of it again during Street Fighter in a couple of months. Lots of work in and around cars, that course.

 

These are a working man's tools. They will get scratches. They will get dings. They will still work.

[Unobtanium]

Notice how the fronts of the ports in my flash-hider/suppressor mount look like sharp "V"'s? They used to be U-shaped. Metal has worn out of the "U" to make them a "V". HORROR!!!!

 

 

 

Here is a picture I dug up of the same weapon when new, for comparison. Oh the horror!!! WEAR!!!!

 

 

*FYI, that's a $129 mount that a $1460 suppressor lives on that would take another $200 tax-stamp and over half a year hung up with ATF paperwork to replace if something real actually went wrong with that mount, which, it's fine, just showing that it actually gets used.

 

Stuff wears, it's cool, chill.

Edited January 29, 2013 by Unobtanium

[XTrooper]

 

These are a working man's tools. They will get scratches. They will get dings. They will still work.

 

^^^Truth^^^

[forzArmata]

^^ This can't be true? Working tools? I thought they were for show

[Case]

This made me laugh:

 

Other stuff for you to look at that will drive you crazy...

 

The barrier battering the back/inside of your receiver.

The hammer-face being peened and polished.

The linkage being scarred as it rotates in the base of the carrier during recoil.

 

 

Don't kick a guy when he's already down! ; )

 

I get super OCD about my kit too but agree with the comments in re: tools. I don't go trying to put dents, dings or scratches on a fighting gun but I don't worry about it either.

 

Wear marks are good. It means you've been practicing and your stuff works.

One man's opinion.

[ChrisC]

Trouble is, the anodizing gets scraped off by the shells. So even if you refinish it, it'll keep wearing down. Even a fancier teflon based coating would wear down eventually. I'd just get a bottle of Alumablack, and hit it whenever it bothers you.

 

 

Thinking of NP3 from Robar and lightly beveling the area prior to sending it in, that way the finish should stay on longer with the lessened contact from the ejected shell.

 

Wondering on how much bevel and over what length should be applied

 

Any pictures from a well used rig would help

 

Thanks

[Unobtanium]

Thinking of NP3 from Robar and lightly beveling the area prior to sending it in, that way the finish should stay on longer with the lessened contact from the ejected shell.

 

Wondering on how much bevel and over what length should be applied

 

Any pictures from a well used rig would help

 

Thanks

 

I would just leave it alone. Anodizing (IIIa like what we are discussing) is RC70, and very durable stuff. If it's getting peened, I doubt NP3 will fare much better. It might, but even if it does...so?

 

Spend the money buying ammo and having fun training, or putting gas in the car for a month, or something like that.

[StrangerDanger]

Well, if you NP3 coat it, you won't notice the worn aluminum as much since it'll be silver. I'd just leave it alone. If doing NP3, I'd be doing it to slick up the action.