Jump to content

Cycling Problems & Maintenance


Recommended Posts

My experience with Benelli Autoloaders is quite extensive. I purchased one of the original Montefeltro’s imported by H&K and have worked on and performed year end maintenance on over 200 guns models listed above and the Nova.


I’m sure everyone knows how to “field strip” your gun, I will not cover this however I will add what may be of value from my experience. What most Benelli owners do not know about the gun they own is, the vital component listed as the recoil spring and the recoil spring tube. This will be the focus of this writing because it is not covered in the Benelli owner’s manual. With the knowledge and understanding of this maintenance and process, the problems experienced in cycling issues could be completely eliminated. It is vital that your recoil spring maintenance be performed on a yearly basis, the exceptions would be low usage or submerged gun.


Removing the Butt Plate requires a thin shaft Philips screwdriver with a number #2 head. Apply oil to the Butt Plate screw holes before inserting the screw driver. This will minimize the damage to the rubber. Remove Butt Plate. Insert a 13mm deep socket in the back of the stock and remove the stock retaining nut, this nut will need to be torque to 22 lbs upon assembly. The stock assembly and drop change shim will come off. To remove the recoil spring, the stock retaining nut SCREW will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will require a 17mm closed end wrench. Older Benelli’s will not have the nut attached to the stock retaining screw; this will make the process more difficult. To remove the stock retaining nut screw, my experience has been in most circumstances heat will be required to address the locktite which has been applied to the screw from the factory. Place the receiver assembly in a vise just tight enough to hold the receiver be careful not to crush receiver. Protect the receiver to eliminate damage. Heat the stock retaining nut screw near the recoil spring tube with a Bic type lighter for up to one minute. This is all I ever needed to slacken the locktite. Then place your closed end wrench on the nut and loosen. Care must be taken when removing the screw the assembly is under pressure of the recoil spring. The recoil spring ready to be removed and the recoil spring plunger. Upon assembly do not use locktite, this processed should be performed annually anyway.

Concluding, the recoil tube should be cleaned with gun scrub and a 20 gauge wire brush inserted through the tube. The recoil spring should be cleaned as well. My experience with the factory recoil spring has been less than desired. I have replaced factory springs after one year on M1’s model number 11045 serial numbers M400240 and M400239. The original Montefeltro springs seemed better, lasting 10 years. I replace the recoil spring with Wolff 25% extra power spring. Keep in mind these are hunting guns and do not shoot low base 7/8 0z shells. Wolff 25% reduced power spring works well for light loads. You will know when your spring needs to be replaced when the bolt assembly does not rotate to the closed position after shooting the first shell, when your gun is properly maintained. This failure increases when shooting in cold weather and shooting directly overhead, when the bolt faces the force of gravity. Assembly of the recoil spring requires minimal usage of synthetic spray lube, just enough to lubricate and protect metal. Excessive oil will collect more powder residue. Synthetic will minimize congeal at low temps.

When reassembling the gun it would be helpful to install your trigger assembly, this will make the alignment of the stock easier. The bolt assembly should be kept clean. I use a few drops of Break Free inside of the receiver assembly on the bolt rails, this should be all the lubricant you will need after cleaning the assembly with gun scrub. A “dry” clean magazine assembly, dry meaning no lubricant, will create the same symptom of the bolt assembly not rotating closed in cold weather as well. This cost me a double on Canada Geese this year because I was to lazy to field strip my Benelli and lube it properly when encountering cold weather. The field striping and lubricating noted above can be performed in a few minutes after a few repetitions.


I am hopeful this summary may be helpful. Performing complete and well timed maintenance will go a long way towards keeping your Benelli in great operating condition. Nothing is worse than a semi autoloading shotgun that becomes a single shot. I wish I would have had this information when I purchased my first Benelli.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another option is to have a Surecycle stainless steel recoil spring assemply installed, then you never have to worry about lubing or corrosion. I'm guess this is why they went stainless on the SBEII. When it is time to clean it you rinse it out with water. I've also found that a very small amount of Militec-1 oil works awsome in any weather and hasn't jammed yet, unlike my Remoil, Remoil Dry, and FP-10.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been doing all of the above since 1992.


Very good advice.


I also use a cleaning rod attached to a drill and put some steel wool on the brush. A little metal polish can really keep the guide tube smooth.


I really hate all the "A $1500 gun should not need any service" crap.


A gun is a tool. Tools need to be cared for properly to ensure good function.


I hunted with a gun shop owner yesterday who stated he really hated Benellis. His reasoning was that they needed to be cleaned!!! He said his customers are looking for a gun that never needs to be cleaned or oiled!!!


I don't want to be within gunshot range of anyone who doesn't clean their guns!!!!!!


mudhen - CA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

threeshot :


Yes, I've done it on my SBEII.




I know plenty of guys who have got over 10 years out of their H&K SBE with the stock spring. If you get a lot of crap and oil in your action, you shoudl check the spring and tube and clean it, but I bet the spring will last you a while.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello all! This is my first post here.


I have a Benelli M1 with a serial # below M130000. It is HK vintage with the long four shot extention tube.It originally had a smoothbore 18.5" bbl. I bought a slug bbl for it as soon as they became available in the US and had a Burris 1.75-5x scope professionally installed. I had shot numerous deer with it before I switched to the rifled bbl without incident of a jam. The gun would jam "all the time" after installing the rifled bbl/forearm.


I clean it regularly,but still have it jam on me after installing a Sure Cycle recoil spring. I thought that the spring was the culprit. I am using Lightfield 2.75" slugs. What could be the problem?


[ 12-22-2004, 03:13 PM: Message edited by: bootster ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome bootster,


Can you describe the type of jam your gun experiences with the rifled barrel?


Is it failing to extract the spent shell?

Is the spent shell partially extracted?

Is the spent shell stuck or jammed in the eject port?

Is the new shell failing to load and is still in the shell carrier?

Is the new shell partially loaded into the chamber?

Is the bolt closing on the new shell before it is lifted-up by the shell carrier?


Regards threeshot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the greeting threeshot.


The spent shell gets flung halfway out of the ejection port and the shell on the carrier jams it against the roof of the reciever. I have to pull the spent shell out that is stuck sideways out of the reciever and physically pull the bolt back for the shell on the carrier to load properly.


The gun with the original bbl setup functions fine,never had a jam. This doesn't happen "all the time" either,just when I don't need it to. I put about 12 rounds a year through this gun.


[ 12-22-2004, 03:15 PM: Message edited by: bootster ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites



I see you have tried cleaning and even replacing the recoil spring with Sure Cycle.


The only thing I am curious about is the load you shot with both types of barrels.


What is the ounce of shot and drams of powered are you using when shooting both types of barrels?


Regards threeshot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry bootster, I am out of ideas.


According to the FAQ for Lightfields, they recommend using slugs the size of the chamber. I think the M1 is a 3" chamber.




Sorry I could not help you resolve the problem. You can always call Benelli Customer Service.




Regards threeshot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again for the response threeshot.


I feel like it's a chamber problem in the rifled bbl. If the smoothbore shoots them all day without a hiccup,then logic would have it that the slugs work fine in the action of the Benelli. The bbl must be the issue.


I was hoping that someone else shooting 2 3/4 in. Lightfields would have chimed in with an idea. I don't like 3" slugs,I don't know why,but I've never liked them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...