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Glad it helped!

It's not difficult if you have a modicum of common sense. The most challenging part was the safety plunger retaining pin installed without twisting the spring. This video is all you need to closely follow to install it correctly.

Forward Recently, I’ve had a few requests to do a disassembly/reassembly guide for the trigger pack of the Benelli M4. Today I had some spare time to kill, so I decided to try to tackle it. This manual can be used as a guide for pretty much any Benelli shotgun out there. Not everyone needs to do a full disassembly. They may be doing 922® upgrades or simply changing out their safety button. Perhaps you want to have your carrier welded up? You can jump around through the photographs and see what is needed to get the assembly apart to do your job. In this tutorial, many of the images will have lines on them indicating what you cannot see inside of the parts. I used the color blue to indicate the position of the tools such as punches. I used green to indicate the position of the roll pin or other type of assembly pins. White and black indicate the general assembly. Note: The trigger pack I am using is a spare complete trigger pack with a Geisselle hammer installed. The Tools Before proceeding into this tutorial, I would advise that you have some proper gunsmith grade tools. You do not need hundreds of dollars’ worth of tools, but you do need the basics to prevent marring your work. Proper tools will also keep the swearing to a minimum. This job we’re about to perform will cause some swearing. You will be required to manipulate many small spring loaded pieces that must be aligned perfectly. It might be pretty miserable to perform if you have big sausage fingers. Take this under advisement before you’re forced to make the walk of shame to the local gunsmith with a shoe box full of parts. Naturally, if you get stuck somewhere, get a hold of me and I’ll help you in any way that I can. If you’re still stuck or have broken something, you can send the assembly to me to repair. All I will charge is the cost of shipping it back and the cost of any needed parts. The same applies if you want something repaired or if you want 922® compliance parts installed and do not feel you can complete the task. I’ve done many installs for locals and other members on this forum in the past. If I have the parts on hand or you are sending them with the item, I usually have the work back in the mail to you the next morning. 1/16 Punch 3/32 Punch Snap Ring Pliers Dental Pick Alignment Tools Assembly Block Brass Hammer Rawhide Mallet

These are back - $100 now. Still the best price I have seen lately (although I have not looked much.) https://botach.com/benelli-70052-m4-full-length-7rd-magazine-tubes/

Excellent write-up. Just completed my install with an A & S housing and FFT NP3 trigger pack and lifter. Outstanding pictures and details. Made my install a breeze. Function checks complete. All that’s left now is live fire test. Thanks man, your time and effort is much appreciated!

Finally got around to upgrading my Benelli's and rifles to the new Modlite weapon lights. This has been an massive increase in output compared to the M600IB lights I was using. I had looked at doing the M600DF models, but I wasn't very impressed with the output. For the Benelli's, I went with the PLHv2 lamp heads since they have a little more spill. With this upgrade I had to move over to the IWC weapon light mounts. I machined the tailcaps on the Benelli's to remove the shroud around the button. I'll get them Cerakoted eventually.

The IWC setup is the lightest and it is hard to beat the ergonomics of the oem handguard. Now, if you are set on a rail, I’d use the 13” Briley rail so that you can mount the light as far forward as possible to eliminate the barrel shadowing issue. You’d be stuck using a tape switch which sucks. Most switches are damage prone garbage which have poor tactile control. Even expensive ones like the Taps switches were meh. I am trying a Unity Tactical pad right now which works pretty well. They can be hard to find in stock though. I’m moving into a new realm right now for the M4. I just bought. White phosphorous L3 Harris M914A PVS14 monocular to hunt samsquanches in the dark. I think I’m going to set one of the M4’s up with an IR light/laser.

25 inlbs felt about right. I could feel the force it took to remove them because I goofed and had the light mounted on the wrong side. I've been doing the decreasing thing. I have acetone but I've been using alcohol lately on fasteners. Also used the loctite 243. 36 inlbs for the IWC mount felt right at the upper end of the torque limit. The IWC instructions call for a max of 40 inlbs but I figured I'd back it down a bit since I used loctite. I've used the sharpie trick on a couple of rifles. Silver/Gold depending on the color of your work piece. I replaced the screws in one rifle so I wanted to monitor them just in case.

No helicoils present. Ifyou degrease the screws and threads with acetone, the Loctite will perform better. For steel to aluminum, you’d want blueLoctite 243. There are several different number grades for each color Loctite. Each is blended for a specific application. Would regular old 242 work? Sure. You can use a silver Sharpie to mark your screws to give a visual indicator to check if a screw is backing out. Just mark part of the screw so that the marker applies ink to the body of the mount as well. If you see the strip out of alignment, you’ll know it’s moving and needs attention.

That's about what I do when I don't have a factory torque spec.

Snug then about 1/8 turn I used blue thread locker

This shows how the Rear Trigger Pin and the Trigger fit together. Here we are inserting the Trigger Assembly into the Trigger Guard. Note that you must rock the Trigger Assembly into place. Engage the Rear Trigger Pin in the square notch of the Trigger, and rotate the Trigger Assembly into the Trigger Guard. Be careful not to dislodge the Trigger Spring.

There is a lot of misinformation concerning how to remove these recoil tubes from your weapon. Benelli will tell you that you will destroy the shotgun if you attempt to remove the extension. This is only true if you do not heat the threads sufficiently to break the thread locker. Once you've developed the testicular fortitude to complete this project, you must do the following: Disassemble the weapon. You must remove the internals from the recoil tube assembly. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring at the bottom of the recoil tube. Unscrew the spring retainer. You should put a punch through one of the drainage holes to keep the spring from ejecting when you remove the plug. Contain the spring as the punch is removed. Tip the receiver back to allow the plunger to slide out of the recoil tube. After that, you should spray the recoil tube out with solvent to remove oil and debris that might catch fire during the next process. To remove the tube, you must heat the recoil tube extension's locknut with a heatgun for 30 minutes or more. A propane torch would also work, and be faster. However, a heatgun will be slower and safer. Benelli coats the threads with a green thread locker compound. Make sure you put the receiver in a vice. I found the best place to clamp to was below the rear sight. You do not want to crush the receiver with the vice. Apply just enough tension to hold the receiver in place. Make sure you apply some padding between your receiver and the vice. The nut is common thread. The nut is a 1 1/16" or metric equivalent wrench. You do not want to apply a lot of torque to the receiver. You want the heat to break the locktite's hold. I never used more than one arm to apply torque with. Once it is heated sufficiently, the nut will begin to turn slowly. Continue heating until the nut is completely removed and slides off the end of the recoil tube. Now time for the hard part. Continue to apply heat to the recoil tube threaded area. Use an open ended 3/4" box wrench on the flat spots of the recoil tube to apply torque. These are also common thread. This may take another 30 minutes with a heatgun to break the locktite compounds hold. Note the depth that the recoil tube is screwed into the receiver. Also be aware that this item must be timed to index the stock in an appropriate direction. Once the recoil tube unscrews, clean up the threads with acetone or another solvent. A wirebrush will help. To reassemble, screw the new recoil tube in so that the threads are flush with the inside of the receiver. Thread the locknut over the recoil tube assembly and screw it flush with the receiver. Add the collapsible stock to the tail to act as an index to help time the recoil tube assembly. Once you've indexed it to where you want it, tighten the locknut. What I recommend is installing the collapsible stock at this time, and collapsing it fully. Use the cheek weld piece of the collapsible stock as an index point. Point the cheek weld so it points to the middle of the rear iron sight housing. Once you have it where you want, tighten the locknut. I highly recommend reapplying locktite to the recoil tube and the locknut. Even if you simply use the blue type. The recoil tube extension is pretty easy to screw in. You can do it by hand. Reinstall the internals of the recoil tube. Drop the plunger in, followed by the spring. Press the spring in and retain it with a punch or screwdriver. Screw in the spring plug. Reinstall the snap ring. Install your stock. Hopefully this tutorial is clear. The times needed to run the heatgun are accurate. Prop the weapon up so you can leave the heat on it and just sit by and watch.