remarkable

The more I think about your post, the more I think it has to be the mag spring. Because this gun has never jammed on the 2nd shot when 3 shells were loaded from the beginning. It has always been the 3rd shot (the last one in the magazine). If it were the carrier latch, recoil spring or something else, it would jam on the 2nd shot just as often, correct? Jed, I think you are making very good progress understanding the inertia system. Lets complete the cause & effect a bit further and break down your discovery. This will help you become a Benelli pro. Your discovery with the final shell is critical. Great insights to note these effects. The cause would be a possible weak spring rate which would then slow the entry of the final shell to the elevator which then raises your shell into the path of the bolt which then forces it into the chamber. I have replaced a few elevator springs as well in various SBE and M1's. The cleaning of the magazine tube is critical as well because you are changing the dynamic of the magazine spring because it would then be pushing against resistance of residue or gummed up lube. This is a great forum to learn. I wish someone instructed me about the dynamics of the Benelli Inertia Recoil System. When I imported one of the first Montefeltro's to the US I never even received a manual. When manuals first came out nothing was mentioned about the Magazine or Recoil Spring. Fact is the first Montefeltro did not even have a recoil tube assembly nut to get access to the recoil spring. Benelli has come along way in making the gun maint. friendly. I realy hope I'm helping you here and your gaining insights on the premier autoloading shotgun.

As I have said in another post, my 3rd round (one in the hole and 2 in the mag)--in other words the last round out of the tube--the shell will sometimes stop/jam on top of the carrier. It just sits there. I can lightly bump it or tap it from the bottom and it will then chamber. It will do the same thing if only one round is in the magazine. So, something is keeping it from loading in the chamber. What would cause it not to load from the carrier? Would a weak mag spring do this? How? Would a weak/dirty recoil spring do this? How? Could it be the carrier latch? How? Let's break down what you told us. Your first shell that you inserted into the magazine is the shell that is causing you the problem. That is a sure sign of a spring that is out of OEM tolerance or the magazine tube is dirty. Here is why: the spring rate when making application to the final shell in your loaded magazine will place the spring near it's lowest amount of force because the coils at that point are the most relaxed. Take a look at the new Vinci - look how small the recoild spring is in that gun. You may think how can that little spring replace the recoild spring that is found in a SBE or M2. The reality is because when working with spring torsion rates the smaller the spring the easier it is to FIND and HOLD the exact tolerance that is required to operate, in the case the enertia recoild system. A worm carrier latch will sometimes let more that one shells out of the magazine. The Carrier Latch on a M1 has been redesigned. I just replaced a Carrier latch on a clients 10 year old M1. In addition I replaced the magazine spring and follower with a Sure Cycle Magazine Kit. Also replaced in this gun was a Wolff 25% increase spring and a Wolff hammer spring. This package revived a ten year old M1 to like new condition. The carrier latch is very simply to replace by driving the Carrier Latch pin from the bottom with a fine drift punch. I'm going to say it again - the shell issue as described is a major cause of cycling issues. I have found this problem increasing. Lets repeat - if every shell you place in your gun does not fall into and out of the chamber area freely - you are changing a dynamic of the Benelli enertia recoil system. I will be looking forward to the photo's. [email protected]

I tried to send you a PM, but the system said I needed to post 15 post before I could pm. So, I thought I'd ask you a question about my M2 cycling problems. I may have it worked out with the new parts on the way from Benelli and gunsprings.com, but they haven't arrived yet. On my 3rd shot (when 3 are loaded), 3 out of every box will usually hang up on the carrier. The shell will back out of the tube and just rest on the carrier. I can slightly bump it and it will load. Sounds like a weak mag spring and/or follower cap so I ordered both. I also have a carrier latch coming as well. The gun has done this since new (3 years old)--Benelli told me it was a break-in issue and to shoot heavy loads for a while. Done that for 3 years. What you think? Purchasing a new magazine spring, follower cap & carrier latch were good moves. Be sure to clean the magazine tube when you have this old parts removed. Secondly, really study my finding about shells. No one is really on to this issue and it is pivitol to the operation of your Benelli system. Lets recap - remove your barrel from the gun - if your shells do not fall all the way into the chamber freely to the shells base you are disrupting the inertia recoil system. This is a huge issue that know one seems to grasp. I'm surprised MUDHEN has not mentioned this - he is pretty much spot on in his Benelli insights. The Benelli Autolaoding gun uses a two piece bolt and spring to accomplish the energy transfer necessary to initiate the bolt cycle and perform all necessary autoloading functions, including recocking, extracting, ejection, and reloading. Additionally the Benelli chamber is bored very tight. Many shells today (no brands any better) simply do not hold tolerance to insert properly in Benelli guns. Remove your barrel from your gun and drop a shell into the chamber. Every shell should fall into the chamber with no resistance. Keep in mind while cleaning you barrel, extra attention will need to be given to the chamber area. A 12 or 10 Gauge wire brush should be used in the firsts 4” of the chamber. You will be surprised how a clean chamber will help with “shell issues”. If your shells do not fall into the chamber with any resistance you will change the dynamic of the above said functionality of inertia. You do not have to throw these shells away. Lightly polish the plastic or brass until resistance is eliminated. The larger the diameter of the shot the more possibility the shot will not lay the hull properly which will the cause a dimple on the outside of the shell. I have found the shell issue increasing in recent years.

Send me a photo and a better description of your issue. Also read my other posts. I think you will find some good understanding in that piece. I just replaced a carrier latch on a M1 that was wore. This part was updated in the M2. [email protected]

Here is a wealth of information that you could print and file in your SBE Owners Manual: As usual Mudhen has great insights of these fine Benelli offering as well: Benelli M1, SBE, and Montefeltro Recoil Spring & Maintained tips. My experience with Benelli Autoloaders is quite extensive. I purchased one of the original Montefeltro’s imported by H&K and have worked on and performed year end maintenance on over 200 guns models listed above and the Nova. I’m sure everyone knows how to “field strip” your gun, I will not cover this however I will add what may be of value from my experience. What most Benelli owners do not know about the gun they own is, the vital component listed as the recoil spring and the recoil spring tube. This will be the focus of this writing because it is not covered in the Benelli owner’s manual. With the knowledge and understanding of this maintenance and process, the problems experienced in cycling issues could be completely eliminated. It is vital that your recoil spring maintenance be performed on a yearly basis, the exceptions would be low usage or submerged gun. Removing the Butt Plate requires a thin shaft Philips screwdriver with a number #2 head. Apply oil to the Butt Plate screw holes before inserting the screw driver. This will minimize the damage to the rubber. Remove Butt Plate. Insert a 13mm deep socket in the back of the stock and remove the stock retaining nut, this nut will need to be torque to 22 lbs upon assembly. The stock assembly and drop change shim will come off. To remove the recoil spring, the stock retaining nut SCREW will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will require a 17mm closed end wrench. Older Benelli’s will not have the nut attached to the stock retaining screw; this will make the process more difficult. To remove the stock retaining nut screw, my experience has been in most circumstances heat will be required to address the locktite which has been applied to the screw from the factory. Place the receiver assembly in a vise just tight enough to hold the receiver be careful not to crush receiver. Protect the receiver to eliminate damage. Heat the stock retaining nut screw near the recoil spring tube with a Bic type lighter for up to one minute. This is all I ever needed to slacken the locktite. Then place your closed end wrench on the nut and loosen. Care must be taken when removing the screw the assembly is under pressure of the recoil spring. The recoil spring ready to be removed and the recoil spring plunger. Upon assembly do not use locktite; this processed should be performed annually anyway. Concluding, the recoil tube should be cleaned with gun scrub and a 20 gauge wire brush inserted through the tube. The recoil spring should be cleaned as well. My experience with the factory recoil spring has been less than desired. I have replaced factory springs after one year on M1’s model number 11045 serial numbers M400240 and M400239. The original Montefeltro springs seemed better, lasting 10 years. I replace the recoil spring with Wolff 25% extra power spring. Keep in mind these are hunting guns and do not shoot low base 7/8 0z shells. Wolff 25% reduced power spring works well for light loads. You will know when your spring needs to be replaced when the bolt assembly does not rotate to the closed position after shooting the first shell, when your gun is properly maintained. This failure increases when shooting in cold weather and shooting directly overhead, when the bolt faces the force of gravity. Assembly of the recoil spring requires minimal usage of synthetic spray lube, just enough to lubricate and protect metal. Excessive oil will collect more powder residue. Synthetic will minimize congeal at low temps. When reassembling the gun it would be helpful to install your trigger assembly, this will make the alignment of the stock easier. The bolt assembly should be kept clean. I use a few drops of Break Free inside of the receiver assembly on the bolt rails, this should be all the lubricant you will need after cleaning the assembly with gun scrub. A “dry” clean magazine assembly, dry meaning no lubricant, will create the same symptom of the bolt assembly not rotating closed in cold weather as well. This cost me a double on Canada Geese this year because I was to lazy to field strip my Benelli and lube it properly when encountering cold weather. The field striping and lubricating noted above can be performed in a few minutes after a few repetitions. SBE II & M2 The SBE II & M2 require a similar process to the above with a few differences. The buttpad is quick-detachable. The drop change shim will need to be carefully inspected when removed. Note the index of the top of the shim so installation is exact. The 13 mm socket will need to be of very deep profile to remove the stock retaining nut. The retaining nut screw will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will not require heat, noted in the removal of this part on SBE I & M1. The new recoil spring, guide and tube are corrosion resistant. It is not stainless steel like the Sure Cycle aftermarket system. Cleaning the new models just like the old models. The Wolff springs are not available for the new gun for the general public. Shells & Findings The Benelli Autolaoding gun uses a two piece bolt and spring to accomplish the energy transfer necessary to initiate the bolt cycle and perform all necessary autoloading functions, including recocking, extracting, ejection, and reloading. Additionally the Benelli chamber is bored very tight. Many shells today (no brands any better) simply do not hold tolerance to insert properly in Benelli guns. Remove your barrel from your gun and drop a shell into the chamber. Every shell should fall into the chamber with no resistance. Keep in mind while cleaning you barrel, extra attention will need to be given to the chamber area. A 12 or 10 Gauge wire brush should be used in the firsts 4” of the chamber. You will be surprised how a clean chamber will help with “shell issues”. If your shells do not fall into the chamber with any resistance you will change the dynamic of the above said functionality of inertia. You do not have to throw these shells away. Lightly polish the plastic or brass until resistance is eliminated. The larger the diameter of the shot the more possibility the shot will not lay the hull properly which will the cause a dimple on the outside of the shell. I have found the shell issue increasing in recent years. In my personal hunting guns I have a Wolff hammer springs installed. These work great for a deeper hammer/dimple on primers of shot shells. The downside would be the increase resistance of recocking the hammer which again changes dynamics of the inertia system. Benelli has made changes to guns which make it much easier to maintain. Take advantage the new functionality. One of the first Montefeltro’s imported to the USA by H&K had no information about the recoil spring or recoil tube. A retaining nut screw was not even installed on the recoil tube. Finally, when encounter cold weather take extra time to clean and lube your Benelli properly. Shooting directly overhead will test your Benelli because the energy produced for inertia now is fighting against the forces of gravity, more resistance. I hope this information will help you with your Benelli. Following the above will keep you from the Benelli problems Chad Belding experience in 24-7 “Running Traffic”

SBE 2 Please send me a detailed explaination of your SBE issue. I promise to help you work thru the problem. This is a great gun. You need some cause & effect sloutions to your intertia recoild gun issue. I just replaced a worn magazine latch on a gentlemens SBE 1 which eliminated his issues of multiple shells being release from the magazine tube. I work on over 100 Benelli per year and have extensive experience with M1, M2, SBE 1, SBE 2, and M4's. I imported one of the original Montefeltros to the USA. Best of all it's free advice. Tucker & Mudhen are good sources of Benelli facts as well. Please work thru my home e-mail @ [email protected]

I have not been on the forum for over a year. I have followed Mudhens posts for several years. The guy is usually "Spot On" with his assesments. I can't fake Benelli knowledge. It comes from years of cause and effect anaylisis and shooting and working on Benelli's in many different conditions. I perform year end maint. on all Benelli's - Mudhen knows Benelli's and should be considered a valued member this forum.

I have seen many posts about jamming, cycling, rotating bolt problems etc. Let me start with a writing I previously posted and then some new finding that may help many Benelli owners. Previously posted: Benelli M1, SBE, and Montefeltro Recoil Spring & Maintained tips. My experience with Benelli Autoloaders is quite extensive. I purchased one of the original Montefeltro’s imported by H&K and have worked on and performed year end maintenance on over 200 guns models listed above and the Nova. I’m sure everyone knows how to “field strip” your gun, I will not cover this however I will add what may be of value from my experience. What most Benelli owners do not know about the gun they own is, the vital component listed as the recoil spring and the recoil spring tube. This will be the focus of this writing because it is not covered in the Benelli owner’s manual. With the knowledge and understanding of this maintenance and process, the problems experienced in cycling issues could be completely eliminated. It is vital that your recoil spring maintenance be performed on a yearly basis, the exceptions would be low usage or submerged gun. Removing the Butt Plate requires a thin shaft Philips screwdriver with a number #2 head. Apply oil to the Butt Plate screw holes before inserting the screw driver. This will minimize the damage to the rubber. Remove Butt Plate. Insert a 13mm deep socket in the back of the stock and remove the stock retaining nut, this nut will need to be torque to 22 lbs upon assembly. The stock assembly and drop change shim will come off. To remove the recoil spring, the stock retaining nut SCREW will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will require a 17mm closed end wrench. Older Benelli’s will not have the nut attached to the stock retaining screw; this will make the process more difficult. To remove the stock retaining nut screw, my experience has been in most circumstances heat will be required to address the locktite which has been applied to the screw from the factory. Place the receiver assembly in a vise just tight enough to hold the receiver be careful not to crush receiver. Protect the receiver to eliminate damage. Heat the stock retaining nut screw near the recoil spring tube with a Bic type lighter for up to one minute. This is all I ever needed to slacken the locktite. Then place your closed end wrench on the nut and loosen. Care must be taken when removing the screw the assembly is under pressure of the recoil spring. The recoil spring ready to be removed and the recoil spring plunger. Upon assembly do not use locktite, this processed should be performed annually anyway. Concluding, the recoil tube should be cleaned with gun scrub and a 20 gauge wire brush inserted through the tube. The recoil spring should be cleaned as well. My experience with the factory recoil spring has been less than desired. I have replaced factory springs after one year on M1’s model number 11045 serial numbers M400240 and M400239. The original Montefeltro springs seemed better, lasting 10 years. I replace the recoil spring with Wolff 25% extra power spring. Keep in mind these are hunting guns and do not shoot low base 7/8 0z shells. Wolff 25% reduced power spring works well for light loads. You will know when your spring needs to be replaced when the bolt assembly does not rotate to the closed position after shooting the first shell, when your gun is properly maintained. This failure increases when shooting in cold weather and shooting directly overhead, when the bolt faces the force of gravity. Assembly of the recoil spring requires minimal usage of synthetic spray lube, just enough to lubricate and protect metal. Excessive oil will collect more powder residue. Synthetic will minimize congeal at low temps. When reassembling the gun it would be helpful to install your trigger assembly, this will make the alignment of the stock easier. The bolt assembly should be kept clean. I use a few drops of Break Free inside of the receiver assembly on the bolt rails, this should be all the lubricant you will need after cleaning the assembly with gun scrub. A “dry” clean magazine assembly, dry meaning no lubricant, will create the same symptom of the bolt assembly not rotating closed in cold weather as well. This cost me a double on Canada Geese this year because I was to lazy to field strip my Benelli and lube it properly when encountering cold weather. The field striping and lubricating noted above can be performed in a few minutes after a few repetitions. I am hopeful this summary may be helpful. Performing complete and well timed maintenance will go a long way towards keeping your Benelli in great operating condition. Nothing is worse than a semi autoloading shotgun that becomes a single shot. I wish I would have had this information when I purchased my first Benelli. New Findings: After completing cleaning and spring replacement I experienced Benelli owners indicate they are having cycling problems. I tell them to return the gun and the exact shells they are shooting thru the gun. My findings are very consistant. 1. Owners are shooting 7/8 oz shot in their Benelli's with new Wolff 25% increase recoil springs installed or their shells are swelled. I install Wolff 25% increase recoil spring in all hunting guns. Remember this spring will not shoot 7/8 oz. shells particularily when the temperature drops. 2. The big discovery has been shells that are swelled or slightly out of tolerance. I have found no brands better than others. Shells swell if they sit in a wet shell belt for any amount of time. Some shells are simply fatter than others. Here is a test everyone can do. Remove you barrel from the reciever. Point the muzzle towards the ground. Drop a shell into the barrel. The shells should fall all the way to the end of the brass. Then turn the barrel upside down. The shell should freely fall out of the barrel. All of the guns returned with cycling problems fire problem free with proper diameter shells down to minus 20 degrees. Remember the colder the temperature the greater cycling problems occur. Here is what you can do, check all of your shells if you are experiencing cycling issue's after the above described maintainence. If your shells are to fat and don't fall into the barrel as described above, sand them slightly until they do or send them to me, i'll take em'. When purchasing new shells take your barrel with and check which brands fall into the barrel the best. I hope this will help everyone. I am noting more swelled shell issue's in the past two years. Let me know if I can help.

Purchase a new Wolff hammer spring no# 16091. You will se a noticable deeper dimple on your primers.

PM sent

Here is a very comprehensive article I wrote about cycling issues with SBE, M1, and Montefelro Bennelli's. The Wolff recoil spring 25% Extra Power is a great replacement spring. All of my Benelli's have them, most of the guns I service request them. Remembering, these are hunting guns. The 25% extra power spring may not cycle 7/8 oz low brass shells. This becomes a more of a issue when temperatures lower and shooting directly overhead shots when the rotating bolt faces the forces of gravity. Following the below instructions will eliminate cycling issues with rotating bolt lockup. Benelli M1, SBE, and Montefeltro Recoil Spring & Maintained tips. My experience with Benelli Autoloaders is quite extensive. I purchased one of the original Montefeltro’s imported by H&K and have worked on and performed year end maintenance on over 200 guns models listed above and the Nova. I’m sure everyone knows how to “field strip” your gun, I will not cover this however I will add what may be of value from my experience. What most Benelli owners do not know about the gun they own is, the vital component listed as the recoil spring and the recoil spring tube. This will be the focus of this writing because it is not covered in the Benelli owner’s manual. With the knowledge and understanding of this maintenance and process, the problems experienced in cycling issues could be completely eliminated. It is vital that your recoil spring maintenance be performed on a yearly basis, the exceptions would be low usage or submerged gun. Removing the Butt Plate requires a thin shaft Philips screwdriver with a number #2 head. Apply oil to the Butt Plate screw holes before inserting the screw driver. This will minimize the damage to the rubber. Remove Butt Plate. Insert a 13mm deep socket in the back of the stock and remove the stock retaining nut, this nut will need to be torque to 22 lbs upon assembly. The stock assembly and drop change shim will come off. To remove the recoil spring, the stock retaining nut SCREW will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will require a 17mm closed end wrench. Older Benelli’s will not have the nut attached to the stock retaining screw; this will make the process more difficult. To remove the stock retaining nut screw, my experience has been in most circumstances heat will be required to address the locktite which has been applied to the screw from the factory. Place the receiver assembly in a vise just tight enough to hold the receiver be careful not to crush receiver. Protect the receiver to eliminate damage. Heat the stock retaining nut screw near the recoil spring tube with a Bic type lighter for up to one minute. This is all I ever needed to slacken the locktite. Then place your closed end wrench on the nut and loosen. Care must be taken when removing the screw the assembly is under pressure of the recoil spring. The recoil spring ready to be removed and the recoil spring plunger. Upon assembly do not use locktite, this processed should be performed annually anyway. Concluding, the recoil tube should be cleaned with gun scrub and a 20 gauge wire brush inserted through the tube. The recoil spring should be cleaned as well. My experience with the factory recoil spring has been less than desired. I have replaced factory springs after one year on M1’s model number 11045 serial numbers M400240 and M400239. The original Montefeltro springs seemed better, lasting 10 years. I replace the recoil spring with Wolff 25% extra power spring. Keep in mind these are hunting guns and do not shoot low base 7/8 0z shells. Wolff 25% reduced power spring works well for light loads. You will know when your spring needs to be replaced when the bolt assembly does not rotate to the closed position after shooting the first shell, when your gun is properly maintained. This failure increases when shooting in cold weather and shooting directly overhead, when the bolt faces the force of gravity. Assembly of the recoil spring requires minimal usage of synthetic spray lube, just enough to lubricate and protect metal. Excessive oil will collect more powder residue. Synthetic will minimize congeal at low temps. When reassembling the gun it would be helpful to install your trigger assembly, this will make the alignment of the stock easier. The bolt assembly should be kept clean. I use a few drops of Break Free inside of the receiver assembly on the bolt rails, this should be all the lubricant you will need after cleaning the assembly with gun scrub. A “dry” clean magazine assembly, dry meaning no lubricant, will create the same symptom of the bolt assembly not rotating closed in cold weather as well. This cost me a double on Canada Geese this year because I was to lazy to field strip my Benelli and lube it properly when encountering cold weather. The field striping and lubricating noted above can be performed in a few minutes after a few repetitions. I am hopeful this summary may be helpful. Performing complete and well timed maintenance will go a long way towards keeping your Benelli in great operating condition. Nothing is worse than a semi autoloading shotgun that becomes a single shot. I wish I would have had this information when I purchased my first Benelli. Drop me a note if have any questions. [email protected]

Benelli M1, SBE, and Montefeltro Recoil Spring & Maintained tips. My experience with Benelli Autoloaders is quite extensive. I purchased one of the original Montefeltro’s imported by H&K and have worked on and performed year end maintenance on over 200 guns models listed above and the Nova. I’m sure everyone knows how to “field strip” your gun, I will not cover this however I will add what may be of value from my experience. What most Benelli owners do not know about the gun they own is, the vital component listed as the recoil spring and the recoil spring tube. This will be the focus of this writing because it is not covered in the Benelli owner’s manual. With the knowledge and understanding of this maintenance and process, the problems experienced in cycling issues could be completely eliminated. It is vital that your recoil spring maintenance be performed on a yearly basis, the exceptions would be low usage or submerged gun. Removing the Butt Plate requires a thin shaft Philips screwdriver with a number #2 head. Apply oil to the Butt Plate screw holes before inserting the screw driver. This will minimize the damage to the rubber. Remove Butt Plate. Insert a 13mm deep socket in the back of the stock and remove the stock retaining nut, this nut will need to be torque to 22 lbs upon assembly. The stock assembly and drop change shim will come off. To remove the recoil spring, the stock retaining nut SCREW will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will require a 17mm closed end wrench. Older Benelli’s will not have the nut attached to the stock retaining screw; this will make the process more difficult. To remove the stock retaining nut screw, my experience has been in most circumstances heat will be required to address the locktite which has been applied to the screw from the factory. Place the receiver assembly in a vise just tight enough to hold the receiver be careful not to crush receiver. Protect the receiver to eliminate damage. Heat the stock retaining nut screw near the recoil spring tube with a Bic type lighter for up to one minute. This is all I ever needed to slacken the locktite. Then place your closed end wrench on the nut and loosen. Care must be taken when removing the screw the assembly is under pressure of the recoil spring. The recoil spring ready to be removed and the recoil spring plunger. Upon assembly do not use locktite, this processed should be performed annually anyway. Concluding, the recoil tube should be cleaned with gun scrub and a 20 gauge wire brush inserted through the tube. The recoil spring should be cleaned as well. My experience with the factory recoil spring has been less than desired. I have replaced factory springs after one year on M1’s model number 11045 serial numbers M400240 and M400239. The original Montefeltro springs seemed better, lasting 10 years. I replace the recoil spring with Wolff 25% extra power spring. Keep in mind these are hunting guns and do not shoot low base 7/8 0z shells. Wolff 25% reduced power spring works well for light loads. You will know when your spring needs to be replaced when the bolt assembly does not rotate to the closed position after shooting the first shell, when your gun is properly maintained. This failure increases when shooting in cold weather and shooting directly overhead, when the bolt faces the force of gravity. Assembly of the recoil spring requires minimal usage of synthetic spray lube, just enough to lubricate and protect metal. Excessive oil will collect more powder residue. Synthetic will minimize congeal at low temps. When reassembling the gun it would be helpful to install your trigger assembly, this will make the alignment of the stock easier. The bolt assembly should be kept clean. I use a few drops of Break Free inside of the receiver assembly on the bolt rails, this should be all the lubricant you will need after cleaning the assembly with gun scrub. A “dry” clean magazine assembly, dry meaning no lubricant, will create the same symptom of the bolt assembly not rotating closed in cold weather as well. This cost me a double on Canada Geese this year because I was to lazy to field strip my Benelli and lube it properly when encountering cold weather. The field striping and lubricating noted above can be performed in a few minutes after a few repetitions. I am hopeful this summary may be helpful. Performing complete and well timed maintenance will go a long way towards keeping your Benelli in great operating condition. Nothing is worse than a semi autoloading shotgun that becomes a single shot. I wish I would have had this information when I purchased my first Benelli.

My experience with Benelli Autoloaders is quite extensive. I purchased one of the original Montefeltro’s imported by H&K and have worked on and performed year end maintenance on over 200 guns models listed above and the Nova. I’m sure everyone knows how to “field strip” your gun, I will not cover this however I will add what may be of value from my experience. What most Benelli owners do not know about the gun they own is, the vital component listed as the recoil spring and the recoil spring tube. This will be the focus of this writing because it is not covered in the Benelli owner’s manual. With the knowledge and understanding of this maintenance and process, the problems experienced in cycling issues could be completely eliminated. It is vital that your recoil spring maintenance be performed on a yearly basis, the exceptions would be low usage or submerged gun. Removing the Butt Plate requires a thin shaft Philips screwdriver with a number #2 head. Apply oil to the Butt Plate screw holes before inserting the screw driver. This will minimize the damage to the rubber. Remove Butt Plate. Insert a 13mm deep socket in the back of the stock and remove the stock retaining nut, this nut will need to be torque to 22 lbs upon assembly. The stock assembly and drop change shim will come off. To remove the recoil spring, the stock retaining nut SCREW will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will require a 17mm closed end wrench. Older Benelli’s will not have the nut attached to the stock retaining screw; this will make the process more difficult. To remove the stock retaining nut screw, my experience has been in most circumstances heat will be required to address the locktite which has been applied to the screw from the factory. Place the receiver assembly in a vise just tight enough to hold the receiver be careful not to crush receiver. Protect the receiver to eliminate damage. Heat the stock retaining nut screw near the recoil spring tube with a Bic type lighter for up to one minute. This is all I ever needed to slacken the locktite. Then place your closed end wrench on the nut and loosen. Care must be taken when removing the screw the assembly is under pressure of the recoil spring. The recoil spring ready to be removed and the recoil spring plunger. Upon assembly do not use locktite, this processed should be performed annually anyway. Concluding, the recoil tube should be cleaned with gun scrub and a 20 gauge wire brush inserted through the tube. The recoil spring should be cleaned as well. My experience with the factory recoil spring has been less than desired. I have replaced factory springs after one year on M1’s model number 11045 serial numbers M400240 and M400239. The original Montefeltro springs seemed better, lasting 10 years. I replace the recoil spring with Wolff 25% extra power spring. Keep in mind these are hunting guns and do not shoot low base 7/8 0z shells. Wolff 25% reduced power spring works well for light loads. You will know when your spring needs to be replaced when the bolt assembly does not rotate to the closed position after shooting the first shell, when your gun is properly maintained. This failure increases when shooting in cold weather and shooting directly overhead, when the bolt faces the force of gravity. Assembly of the recoil spring requires minimal usage of synthetic spray lube, just enough to lubricate and protect metal. Excessive oil will collect more powder residue. Synthetic will minimize congeal at low temps. When reassembling the gun it would be helpful to install your trigger assembly, this will make the alignment of the stock easier. The bolt assembly should be kept clean. I use a few drops of Break Free inside of the receiver assembly on the bolt rails, this should be all the lubricant you will need after cleaning the assembly with gun scrub. A “dry” clean magazine assembly, dry meaning no lubricant, will create the same symptom of the bolt assembly not rotating closed in cold weather as well. This cost me a double on Canada Geese this year because I was to lazy to field strip my Benelli and lube it properly when encountering cold weather. The field striping and lubricating noted above can be performed in a few minutes after a few repetitions. I am hopeful this summary may be helpful. Performing complete and well timed maintenance will go a long way towards keeping your Benelli in great operating condition. Nothing is worse than a semi autoloading shotgun that becomes a single shot. I wish I would have had this information when I purchased my first Benelli.

Take a look at the post on " Sport II cycling problems"! I maintain over 25 Benelli's, some of the obove post's are good. Let me work on a a good written up presentation that will go along way in answering this common theme, CYCLING PROBLEMS & RECOIL SPRINGS. Truely, with knowledge and well timed maintainence this is a managable issue.

You did not give the condition and age of your Sport II. Sounds as if the gun has had many rounds fired thru it! First problem: Hammer spring is worn beyond tolerance. I have replaced a few of these in SBE's, M1's, and Montefeltro's. Fact is I will replace a new gun purchase after one year with a Wolff hammer Spring. You will see noticable deeper dimples on all of your primers. Second problem: This is a tougher one without observing it. With the condition of your hammer spring it may be a worn recoil spring. Have you ever cleaned the recoil spring assembly? This is the biggest problem with Benelli's! Why do you think the new Benelli's recoil spring are stainless steel. I'm not knocking Benelli here, it's the best autoloading shotgun period. All of the guns a maintain for clients, (over 25) all get Wolff 25% increase recoil springs, new hammer springs, and new magazine springs. Be carefull with a Wolff 25% increase spring shooting the loads you referenced. That spring is to stiff. If this is not a hunting gun and all your shooting is done in warm weather, Wolff has a 25% DECREASE spring as well. My experience has been very poor with factory recoil springs. This should go along way in solving your problems. If you may need additional help please repost, I'll be watching.

You are fortunate to have a newer model with hex head. The older models such as the original Montefeltro imported by H&K did not. I have replaced several of these. More than half of the time you need to apply heat to the threading. This can be done with a bic type cig. lighter. This is all I ever needed. Heat the threading area, put receiver in a big vice, carefull not to crush it. Now use a closed end 17mm wrench and back out the bolt assemble. No need to reapply locktite because you should replace this spring every other year anyway and disassemble the spring for cleaning, yearly. I run a 20 gauge wire brush and Gun Scrub thru the tube and lightly lubricate with sythetic lubricant. Hope you are replacing the spring with a Wolff spring. Think about a new hammer spring while your at it. I have not checked the Benelli forum lately, glad my posts are valued. I noticed you purchased a Wolff 25% REDUCED spring, what was the poupose of this. I have always used WOLFF 25% INCREASE spring and have had great success with this on all of my Benelli hunting guns. If you are going to shoot 7/8 oz low base target loads the reduced may work fine however this spring will cause difficulties in cold weather and shooting directly overhead when the bolt assembly facing the force of gravity. Your HK M1 super 90 is probablt long overdue for a recoil spring replacement, hammer spring, and the magazine tube spring. Check out all of my posts about recoil spring and SRM kits. The recoil spring is the heart of your Benelli and the most overlooked part of the gun. I clean and replace 25 - 50 of these of M-1's, SBE's and Montefeltro's every year. Post again if you need additional help.

Are you using a aftermarket Hiviz or similar. If you are the diameter of those types of magnetic sight are larger than the original bead. Thus the further you are shooting the lower you will be patterning. As far as shooting to the right, it sounds like you shoot a shotgun like me. When patterning a shotgun it is difficult not to pull to the right when preparing for the shot. Try shooting some light loads to get confident with shooting "On A Line" then go to the Turkey loads when you "know" you are on target. I am shooting Hevi Shot #6 with a Briley Hevi Shot choke tube. This setup throws great patterns out to 45 yards. I am sighting with a ATN digital display.

The Briley Turkey Choke is threaded for all Benelli/Barretta. If you have not purchased one yet consider the Briley Heavy Shot Tube .675. You will be very happy with this pattern out to 45 yards shooting Remington Heavy Shot #6.

I owned one of the original Montefeltro's imported by Heckler & Koch. The 21" model was marketed as the Upland and the 24" was marketed as the Turkey. This gun was very light and served me very well until I wore all the springs out in the 1997. The original Montefeltro's have no hex nut to access the recoil spring inside the rear stock.

Sure happy you followed up on the Benelli M1, it is a super nice autoloading shotgun. Don't get to concerned about the middle bead which is on the Montefeltro, Super Black Eagle, and the Nova. Equally, the difference in the high rib vs low rib. Again I own a M1 Field (no middle bead, high rib) a Montefeltro, (middle bead, low rib) a Nova (middle bead, low rib) a Super Black Eagle (middle bead, low rib) and a Super Black Eagle (middle bead, high rib). They a all shoot the same. If you are concerned about sight plaining for Turkeys or Deer get a Aimtech or B Square Saddle mount and go with either a scope or optics. My Nova is setup with 24" Camo, Aimtech Saddle Mount, ATN Digital headsup and a Briley Hevi Shot Turkey Choke. This is a super turkey gun!

Pretty good advice posted above. The Camo M1 affords better protection and makes a very rust resistant finish. If you have no use for 3 1/2 shells the M1 is a great choice. Check out the 24", it swings much better on a M1 Field. I own a 24" M1 Field, Super Black Eagle and a Nova. All 24" Camo.

You have a recoild spring that needs to be replaced. This is the most overlooked maintenance that must be done to keep your Benelli operating smoothly. Let me know if you need directions to complete this process. I will need to know what year your super 90 is. Replace the spring with a Wolffe 25% increase spring. There are several good posts on this website that I have documented Benelli recoil spring issues.

If you look a little, you can get a Nova in Minneapolis with the old Camo pattern for $299.

The M1 Field and the Montefeltro have minor differences. The Montefeltro is in most forms wood stock. The Montefeltro is 3-4oz. lighter depending on barrel length and the drop at comb is 1 1/2 vs. 1 3/8". Your indicate you are going to use the gun for waterfowl hunting. I own each of these models, my suggestion would be a M1 camo 24". This model you could use for everything, ducks, turkey, upland game. The camo has a slight advantage over the synthetic because it offers a better level of protection against rusting. The Montefelro is very suspect to rubbing of the blueing in waterfowl hunting conditions. The 24" barrel swings extremely smooth and sets a nice balance on a M1 Field. The camo will cost you a few more dollars but the additional protection is worth it. I have a SBE, M1 Field and a Nova with camo and 24" barrels. The basic operating system is the same in both guns. Hope this helps!

Check out the thread "SRM Cycling Kit". Everything you need to make a wise decision.