wallhanger54

You dont need a new forend, just modify the one you have. The foot of the barrel hanger where it's attatched to the barrel is longer on your new barrel than on your old one. If you simply remove the plastic or wood in the top front of the forend making the slot about 2 inches long and make some small curved slots on the rear for the ring that meets the receiver, you should be home free.

Make sure its oiled, about 3 drops on each bolt rail. Make sure the ammo is good, at least 3 dram 1 1/8 oz, 2 1/2-7/8oz for 20 ga. Light, sparse oil when thay are new wont work, but this is just from a observation. Let me know if it has a plastic red mag follower in it or a black metal one.

LOL, no, just kidding. It's loctited into the receiver on the old and new ones. Only difference is on the very newest ones, there are flats on the end of it that you can put a wrench on to unscrew it. If it doesnt have the flats dont try it you'll only break it. If you must, remove the forend, barrel, bolt and trigger assembly and use a heat gun (NOT A FLAME) to heat the receiver where the tube is screwed in to loosen the loctite. If you put the tube in a vise to turn it you'll probably bend it so put the receiver in a padded vise and grab the tube with a damp cloth and turn it out. If you dont want to do this, just get a can of gunscrubber and spray it through the hole in the mag follower and let it run out the plug end. BTW, if you are successful in removing it, make sure you at least put some low strength loctite back on it to keep it from backing out while shooting. If you dont, the barrel wont be seated properly into the receiver and bad things can happen.

I can't be sure if your M1 has the rebound or solid plunger in it. If it has a rebound plunger in it then it could be comming apart or unscrewing. If this is the case then it needs to be fixed or at least a new recoil spring put in. If the plunger unscrews it will make the stroke of the bolt shorter keeping the shell from ejecting properly and/or at least effect the overall function of the gun. Also check the barrel extension (silver part of barrel) to make sure it's not cracked in the locking lugs. The M3, well I do know that you must have patience with the gun. Try not to hold it so hard for a while, keep it oiled and put some rounds through it as best you can to break it in. Without actually handling the gun, it's difficult to show you what needs to be done.

Are you using light loads, less than 3 dram 1 1/8 oz will not cycle in these guns. Also, tactical buckshot (light stuff) doesnt do well either. If you have added more than about 1 pound of weight (tactical light, mag extension, side saddle, optics, rails combined with a full load of ammo) this can make the gun too heavy to cycle. Remember, this gun is recoil operated and if it's too heavy to recoil then it can't function (i.e. put the gun on a diet and lighten it up some). Also, OIL THE GUN. Sorry I seem to shout this but it is very important. If there is no oil where the bolt slides or in the recoil assembly then it can't move freely to function. One last thing. The pistol grip stocks are heavier than the regular stocks and you can also buck into them more because of the grip and by doing that you can shut down the operation. This should give you some place to start being I have limited info about either gun but I'm just giving you the rundown based upon experience of working with them. If you let me know some more details I could probably help point you in the right direction.

Send it to the service dept in Maryland. They'll fix it under warranty. Contact the CS phone number for the address.

Cryogenically treated barrel, triggerguard made of plastic, plastic mag follower, different chokes, stock & forend design. Other than that, same parts for magtube, springs, recoil tube, bolt and trigger assembly parts.

4 to 5 weeks....try to get that out of Remington, Ruger or Springfield. You should be so lucky.

Even if you dont have the time or materials to remove the nut, you can just use a hair dryer to dry it out and then squirt some oil in the hole in the tube. Just a note: you're working on the recoil spring, the inertia spring is inside the bolt. [ 11-06-2005, 08:32 PM: Message edited by: wallhanger54 ]

Well I didn't get a duck today but I did win a turkey at a local turkey shoot with my SBE and full choke. Too close to call so this other fella and I had to do a shootoff 3 times to figure the winner. The SBE prevailed in the third round. Older fella was shooting an old Auto 5, good competition. Nice Pintail there on the end with the SBEII. Keep up the good work! [ 11-05-2005, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: wallhanger54 ]

The SBE I or II will not fit it. The barrel attatchment to the mag tube is made like the Monte and Super Sport and there are no rifled slug barrels made for them. I don't know if E.R. Shaw still offers the modification but I guess if you had an extra cordoba barrel they might be able to custom make you one.

Try to think of it this way...If every gun they sold was an all around shotgun, no one would want to buy any other model of gun (this is how money is made). With changes in design come new forend molds for different barrel contours, barrels have to be made (RS having to be heavier and thicker barrel) costing tens of thousands. Selling guns makes money. Anyhow, the Cordoba name meaning was not chosen to put a heavy rifled slug barrel on. It was designed to be a great field gun and that is just what it is. [ 11-05-2005, 06:16 AM: Message edited by: wallhanger54 ]

Tucker! Welcome back to the nut house! Evidently everything went well. Good to see you again dude!

1 in the pipe and 2 in the mag is normal if the limiter plug is in it. Read up in the manual. Rifled slugs can be used but I would only use IC or Cyl chokes. 40 or 50 yard max depending on experience and choice of slug. My preference, Federal 3" 1oz.

Its actually a 2001 model. And still a 3.5" SBE barrel with just the rib removed and GR front sight brazed on rear D/T, original synthetic stock, 18.25" in length and loves to pack a wallop. Used it last deer season and took a nice doe at 40 yards with 3" 00. Just a little wild hair I had somewhere and got bored one weekend. I love getting bored sometimes.

Figure this one out 1014....major firepower here! http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c268/wallhanger54/D1.jpg

Basically it comes in 12, 20 or 28 ga 26" non-interchangeable barrels. It has a steel receiver like the Alcione vs. the aluminum alloy standard Veloce. All have screw in chokes, single selective trigger, ejectors, standard satin finish and not real fancy wood but nice. Internal parts are the same as the regular Veloce and obviously is a little heavier. Great gun for the money I think. Thats about as technical as it gets for an O/U.

Echo, I dont know if you got my message. I was going to say that if you remove the spring and ejector plate and grind the rear tab of it down to about a 1/16" it will allow more travel to the rear for the 3" and especially 3.5" shells. I have found that this clears up many stovepipe situations. Make sure you deburr and smooth the edges before you put it back in.

With the 2 bead system youre supposed to stack the beads like an 8 so that the front bead is sitting over the mid bead and using a 6 o'clock hold , your point of impact should be just above the front sight in a 60/40 pattern at about 25 to 30 yards. If you line them up where you cant see the front bead so you cant see it, you will probably shoot low. If it continues to screw you up you can just remove it by grabbing it with a pair of needle nose pliers and unscrew it. I personally dont use the mid bead myself, I just point and shoot. If you spend too much time looking at the sights, you'll probably miss the target.

I seriously doubt it.

Try this one, I found that for me the surefire stuff was too bulky. This stuff is lightweight and compact. http://www.insightlights.com/products/default.asp

Yup, they sure do. Called a mag cap with swivel stud. Comes in black or camo. You still have to buy the sling swivels from Uncle Mike or whoever.

I'm with Ernie! I've not got that kind of money to throw around and besides, I know how to set my decoys and can shoot good enough to get a close in shot. The heck with stressing everything out.

I think I would err on the side of caution when removing length from the stock. You cant put it back once it's gone. I dont know how short you are, but I'm only 5'4'' with my boots on. I have fitted pads and shortened stocks for people and they have found out in the end that not near as much material needed to be removed. I think if you remove 2 inches, and you mount the gun to shoot, your thumb is gonna crack your nose. Think in 1/2 inch increments and I think you'll be happier.

This is listed as the 11027 M2 Tactical, open rifle sights, Comfort stock& forend and it comes with the 2 shot mag tube extension.