wallhanger54

Training, training, training. I think you don't quite understand everything you think you know about this. Police agencies are moving to this because of lawers, because of crybaby wusses that apply to law enforcement and because it says "TACTICAL". To be a real cop you should be a real man and be able to take a real round to the shoulder. BTW my above post at the end has the highest quality "LAW ENFORCEMENT, TACTICAL, LOW RECOIL" in the post. Hornady.

Yup, same here. Saw em, liked em, sold before I could get em. They're a hot little item. Guess I'll have to be faster on the draw next time.

While I agree on using full bore ammo, I actually like the thought of shooting through a wall. I actually built one like a trailer wall and one like a standard house wall to see how the ammo worked. Bottom line is this...I agree with gunner76. I don't know if you have ever been hunting, but when the juice gets flowing you never feel the shot and if I have to defend myself or anyone else, I'm pretty sure I won't feel that either. I'm under 5'5'' and I actually enjoy the pounding of a 3'' full bore 00 buck or slug, it's a good tension breaker. My Benelli is light and has no recoil reducer. If you're thinking too much about how you're going to feel shooting a gun when the chips are down, then you're not concentrating on the bad guy and he'll get the drop on you. I'd also like to think that if a police officer had to protect or cover me that he would be using full bore ammo. Besides, most of the tactical ammo I have ever tried never cycled the Benelli action well except for the loads made by Hornady. They actually have tactical loads made specifically for semi auto shotguns that are slightly heavier than std. tac loads and lighter than full bore. Oh...and the patterns are fantastic. So think about what your life is worth....light and maybe wont cycle ammo when you need it, or full bore that you can depend on.

I found the best was using the Hoppes stainless steel tornado brush. You don't need any solvent, bore shine, grit, oil grease, foam, gun scrubber or anything else on it. You use it dry, it won't hurt the chrome lining and it removes all fouling, plastic or lead from the bore leaving it nice and shiny. My 2 cents...cha ching!

I think you're over thinking it. Sounds like the chamber needs a bit more polishing. Find someone that has a Flexi-hone for a 12 ga chamber. Work it for a few minutes and you should be good to go.

On the smoothbore barrel I would use the IC choke and no tighter. I have both types smooth and rifled. The rifiled is scoped with a fixed 4 power and I'll push it to 110 yards. The smoothbore I lose most of my accuacy after 75 yards and only a bead for sighting. So for staying within 35 to 50 yards I personally like the smoothbore in thick areas for faster target acquisition. I dont know what kind of terrain you're hunting so that's left up to you.

No difference in the thickness of the receivers. They are all the same. FYI the M2/SBE2 are drilled and tapped for an 8x40 thread.

Checkout gunsamerica or gunbroker.com. You can usually find some in there although I havent looked lately.

I believe quite actually that anyone can own a 14" entry barrel technically. The law reads that you cannot own a short barreled shotgun (without the papers) not a short shotgun barrel. Now, I know...who would have one without wanting to put it on and play. But, just the same, owning a short shotgun barrel is not illegal. You would probably get a hard time over it but, if it's clean and not on a receiver, where is the crime? I'm not saying I'm right 100% but that's just the way I read the letter of the law. If I'm wrong, clarification is in order and documentation would be nice. I think this could be interesting.

Any decent gunsmith in your area should be able to put on another spacer and pad to fit. There is no factory addition for them. I would try to keep it light though. If you don't, you could have some cycling issues with some 2 3/4" loads.

I have never had any problems with my SBE with any shell 1 1/8oz on up no matter the brand. Just a note. The 2000 is just distributed by Benelli. It is in no way designed or manufactured by any Benelli facility. It's not even in the same country.

Cleaning the recoil assembly is good...oiling it is even better. You have to think about friction with these things. The recoil assembly is not so much for absorbing recoil as it is for feeding the next round into the chamber. If it's dry, it won't feed very well no matter the shell you're using. You don't need it to be sounding like a water pump but you do need enough to pull up a slight bead of oil when you work the plunger.

If you own a Beretta with a "wood" stock then you probably already have one. The've been doing it for years. And, with the decline in any decent wood anymore, it will probably soon become the status quo for most production wood stocks.

Probably not. The only things I've found that would hurt a Benelli bore are bad steel shot reloads, some of the early Hevi shot and being submerged in salt water for more than a week or two. That chrome lining is pretty tough.

I've not seen anything yet that would hurt the lining in any Benelli barrel as far as cleaning goes. Personally, I just use a Hoppes Tornado brush (dry) and just swab it out. It's a stainless steel spiral wound brush and it works the quickest and the best for removing plastic or lead fouling. You'll need it too if you shoot any lead slugs through it, Benelli bores lead up pretty quick on slugs.

Well they did virtually eliminate the rattle in the forend. Really feels like a solid piece of weaponry. I like the feel of the tactical with the PG.

Insert they fail to mention in the manual about the steadygrip...you have to remove the stock to get the triggerguard out of this one. The hook on the pistol grip blocks the back of the guard from swinging down. This is just on the SBE model. If it's just the shim keeping it from being removed, then after you take the stock off just use some scissors to trim the bottom lip off the drop shim.

My 2 cents...Look down the inside and outside of the barrel from the muzzle end. If there is a swell or bulge in it, you can hang it up or call Briley cause it aint comming out.

Why dont you back off trying to wring it's neck. You shouldn't be so choked up on the grip, it's not a baseball bat. Back your hand down the wrist of the grip and only let that one last digit of your finger come in contact with the trigger. Also, buck into it. You shoulder should be taking the recoil, not your hand!

Yes, in the Montefeltro. Shorter magazine, lighter receiver, shorter forend, carbon fiber (real) raised rib. And yes it is a dream to handle and difficult to put down.

Dang Butch, thats pretty insightful! I like the way you put that about the "perception" of safety. Git er done!

Bless you Tuck! Unlike many that believe that buying an $1100.00 shotgun means that you shouldn't have to clean or oil it, you take the time to protect your investment. But then again, your kind of thinking hurts job security for people such as myself...lol. I take care of mine and in 5 years of hunting in rain and over salt water, it doesn't have a hint of rust and it has NEVER let me down. Thanks to all who treat their guns with respect and oil. Thanks also to those that don't....you can pay me later [ 01-18-2006, 08:12 PM: Message edited by: wallhanger54 ]

If you're thinking about the Sport II and looking for the Comfortech system then I would look to the Supersport. It has the Comfortech, Crio barrel is ported and the Legacy or Montefeltro barrels are interchangeable on it.

No heat is required on the SBE II or the M2 to remove the plug on the end of the recoil tube. If it is stainless steel or silver in color then it is the new style which is a nylon lock screw, kinda like a nylon lock nut. It is tight but there is no loctite on these new models. If you use heat you will melt the plastic into the threads. So now to you new folks, there is no excuse for not cleaning or oiling your new gun properly. lol

In your case, I would start with buying the GR M1. The receiver is already drilled, tapped and has the GR rear sight installed and the GR front sight on the barrel. These you would need to purchase and have mounted if you went the other route...parts and labor could run you 400+. If you already had the GR setup, you could just remove the rear GR sight and switch to the RS barrel without any additional work needed. The Tritium inserts are an option. The gun comes factory with the standard painted 3 dot system for the GR. If I were you, I'd wait and get what you really wanted. Welcome to the forums here, many happy returns.