wallhanger54

Chalk one up for mudhen....

Just for giggles....have you tried any other 3" shells other than drylocks?

My 2 cents. Since it seems that the gun took a pretty good impact, I'd check the trigger guard itself. Look for hairline cracks in the area in front of the safety but behind the trigger and also in the area around the trigger retaining pin. These small cracks can throw off the geometry of the trigger assembly just enough to keep the action from working properly.

Sorry I didn't answer you sooner, been out hunting every hour I could. Glad to hear you left the dark side of the force. Now just keep some oil in that Benelli and it will give you years of fine service. Black Jack, I couldn't have said it better.

Buddy of mine had it done to his Nova. Works like a charm. Just make sure the polishing job after it's cut is done correctly. It should look like the rest of the bore, polished.

I myself have had no misfires ever in any gun of any kind I own no matter the ammo. I do stay with the major brands and prefer them based upon their use and performance. Some of this off the wall stuff in magazines I just have a hard time trusting, especially in a semi-auto. Pumps, O/U's it's not such a big deal. As far as why the Rem ammo does what it does...1. The primers are set deeper on average. 2. The metal of the primer is thicker sometimes by .001" sometimes not (could be a QA issue with the manufacturer of the primer). 3. Different alloy of metal for the primer. I'm not the chief metalurgist here I know, so I cant tell you what the difference is.

The one main thing that really jumps out to me is people comming in complaining about misfires. All things being equal I'll honestly tell you that with cleaned and oiled guns comming in with this complaint, the customer was shooting Rem Gun Club or some sort of Rem ammo. In my own personal tests I used 5 different brands of ammo (Rem, Win, Fed, Kent, Fiocchi) on 5 brands of shotguns (Rem, Brown, Ben SBE, Ben Nova, Moss). Winchester had the deepest strikes followed by Fed, Kent, Fiocchi and Rem. I know I only fired 3 rounds per gun of each brand but hey, this was for my own curiosity. No great scientific method or meaning is expressed or implied...wife is laughing reading this part. The Win AA shells had the deepest strike followed by Fed, Kent, Fiocchi and Rem. Having only 1 misfire on the 1100 (go figure). End result, I did see that the Rem ammo did have the hardest primer on average leaving the shallowest dimple and distortion. Probably would be fun to see what some gun magazine writer could run with this and do. I dare them!

Well what the hay, I'm on the map too.

Problem 1: Surecycle recoil assy. It says not to oil it. Bad advice. It needs oil so the bolt can cycle fully back and forth with enough force to load and lock the next shell. Problem 2: surecycle mag spring assy. The speed and force with which the shell exits the mag tube has everything to do with how well the gun cycles and I have not been impressed with the strength of the surecycle springs of any kind. Stainless steel and aftermarket parts dont always mean better. On some guns the Surecycle mods may work ok but on Benellis they are a flop. I have found that properly maintained factory workings are far superior. I dont think the problem is in the carrier either. Ive seen these guns with 40000+ rounds in them all original and properly kept still whip em all.

Yup, basically it just means "Tighten it until it stops" no need to torque it. Aint it lovely to know that the Italians have their best Ph.D's in the company working on the english translation? I personally use a 1/4" punch to tighten. I don't like the idea of using the forend either.

Ive seen it happen on a few of these barrels. It mainly happens on 3" or 3 1/2". Probably just needs the chamber to be polished out a little bit mainly at the breech. Used a flexi-hone on a few, works like a dream.

Only one thing to add. If you use the recoil reducer with standard 2 3/4" loads, don't expect it to cycle. The recoil reducer is only made for the 3" magnum loads and higher. Remember its an inertia operated gun and will not work if it can't recoil.

Well the wear on the sides of the Nova is normal. I've never seen one that didn't do it. Also remember that camo, no matter who does it, is just a decal like you put on a model car. It is not indestructable or impervious to scratches. Not to say that your camo isn't bad because it could be. Send it back to Benelli and give em a chance to fix it.

Just use at least a quality 3Dram 1 1/8 oz load like a Win AA or the Rem Sure Shot Heavy Dove. Win Super Speed and Universal or Rem gun club are cheap and just dont quite cut it on a regular basis especially in a new gun. Also, take some oil with you to help keep the recoil assembly and bolt rails oiled. No oil in Ferrari=no work....no oil in Benelli=no work.

Good catch Ivanab on the magazine issue. I've seen this happen on other R1's but can only contribute it to bad metal, maybe. I can't find any other reason that this may happen. But tweaking the feed lips on the mag sure is the trick.

Yup, it's just a thing that happens with the M1 or SBE barrels from time to time. Yes, Benelli will fix the barrel hanger under warranty no matter the age. I will say the weld job their repair department does on the barrel far surpasses the factory job. It came back looking like a brand new barrel. No trouble with it ever since they fixed it.

I've seen this happen a few times and I can tell you how it happened. At some point when you slid the barrel in, you pushed on the face of the locking head with the barrel extension (you probably had the bolt locked back when you put it on). This rotates the head of the bolt in an unnatural position and jams the oblong part of the locking head into the top of the receiver. Not a difficult fix. It's usually a rookie mistake and with practice you'll get better at it. If it ever happens again you just take everything out, turn the gun bottom up and use a brass or wood dowel placed on the backside of the exposed locking head (not the bolt body) and give it a few whacks with a hammer to help drive it back forward.

Had some problems with mine. I just took the opportunity to go ahead and cut up to 4 coils off the firing pin spring. Figured it was cheap enough part to get a new one if I screwed up. It's been working great ever since.

You might want to check out the end of the magtube further. Some of the newest models have flats milled on the stud that makes up the end of the tube on models with that type of tube (Monte, Sport II, Cordoba). It's a nylon lock screw without Loctite. Some do, some dont. I havent been able to figure out a cutoff serial number yet.

You might also look into Limbsaver recoil pads. I believe they are making one for the Nova now and if you havent tried one you should. They really do work.

The contour of the barrel channel is much larger on the slug forend than the smoothbore barrel forend. If modified, it wont fit the bird barrel. You just need to get another forend for the slug barrel. And yes, the M2 slug will fit the M1. You might need to modify the forend at the rear to accept the M2 ring where the extension screws onto the barrel. I'd look into getting an M1 RS barrel. They are probably cheaper than the M2 barrels because of demand.

The threads on the mag tube and the length is the same. It'll fit.

Personal opinion only. I've never thought much of the Sure Cycle. SS springs dont have the necessary carbon steel in them to have much in the way of memory and they tell you not to oil them in the instructions. Not oiling SS on SS? That's crazy! That recoil assembly has alot of work to do (absorbing shock, pushing the bolt and shell forward against gravity and locking the bolt head into battery). They will still rust, I've seen it. It's funny that SC costs 100 when Benelli only charges 60 for a complete factory assembly if you send it to them. I also agree with Mudhen, the Wolffe spring is a good one. I've had mine 5 years and not a hiccup yet with a little love and oil. [ 11-30-2005, 09:08 PM: Message edited by: wallhanger54 ]

Yup, that dry lube really is crap. Never have liked it on any gun. You're gonna have to rub that stuff off using some solvent. Go out and get you some proper oil that drips, not sprays, and oil your gun. Break Free, Militec or some good synthetic oil. Put it on the bolt rails and in the recoil assembly then go out and have some fun.

Unless it says Benelli on it, it's an Ithaca barrel. They are sold and distributed by Benelli but not made by them. The real Benelli rifiled slug barrel made by Benelli only has open sights.