wallhanger54

Think you need to specify a little more. Aint no paint on these guns.

Yeah, I've seen em come out. They should send you one free of charge. Make sure you specify if it's a wood or synthetic stock. Just put a little glue on it when you put the new one in and you'll be fine.

Checkout the B Square website. Ive seen some in there that require no drilling.

Are you absolutely sure you still have an ejector? They do break, and if so it wont eject the shell causing a jam or stovepipe.

Joe, myself and many people I know have had better results with the 1400 to 1600 fps Federal 3" Barnes expanders. With a 1 in 24 twist barrel, the high velocity (1900 fps) seem to produce more erratic groups. Slow em down and youll see a difference. Also remamber a slug barrel is similar to a rifle, too many shots, get it too hot and it'll start throwing them. Think of it this way...when you hunt, your barrel is cold or at least cool. So sight it in that way. Let it cool every couple of shots.

Well with the A shim in the gun the stock is at its straightest therefore delivering the most recoil. Changing to the C shim and plate will drop the stock some and help decrease the recoil. BTW adding more than the proper amount of shims if you have a wood stock will only increase the chances of throwing the alignment of the stock out increasing your chances of splitting the stock.

What kind of ammo are you using? Are you using reloads? Is your ammo nickel plated? Is the gas system really dirty and the carbon built up in it? Make absolutely sure of the proper ammo. All these things affect how it cycles. Need more info.

Its true Benelli's love oil. Not grease. Also make sure the recoil assy is oiled. On the SBE its really easy. When the barrel is off, use a cleaning rod to push the recoil plunger all the way down in the back and drip some oil into it and work it in. Also you could have a loose ejector and a few other problems that just need some TLC. But if that really doesnt remedy the problems Id just send it to Benelli. Believe it or not they are very reasonable in the repair shop on non warranty items.

Id think youd be better off time and trouble to take it back or sell it and get the standard length 20 ga. I love em myself, think they fit great.

Just how close are you getting to them things? 20 yards or less? Id think that with staying still and using a little caution at 50 or 75 yards the slight rattle wouldnt be an issue. Think of it as another way of rattlin' em in. lol.

I agree with birddog. 1 oz will probably keep it running but if your bent on (why in a autoloader I don't know) a 7/8 oz load, I'd stick to an O/U.

Sorry to give bad news but there is no Benelli custom shop and there are no LH 20 ga Montefeltro's. Sorry dude.

In trying to give a reletive short answer to your question, yes it does matter what brand and load being used. If you go out and buy a Ferrari and run 87 octane gas in it, you wont get the performance out of it. Same with almost any autoloader. You use cheap ammo, made cheap, looks cheap, will perform cheap. Especially in 2 3/4 inch. Like this Winchester Super Speed or Universal, sounds fast...not worth a hoot in an auto loader. Using a standard Winchester AA target load is much better. Also maintaining the gun well should be a factor with no aftermarket parts. Especially in a 3 1/2 inch sporting arm. But like Fez said, get a chronograph some ammo and some books and establish your own conclusions.

Yes your gun is ok. The reason its like that is that the bolt is too far forward when you dont have the barrel on. And you will still see part of one locking lug on the bolt when its in battery. Its all spring pressure. Dont try to over analyze it just take it out and have some fun with it.

Well if you really bought it new then you got took, begging your pardon. All Novas come with a box manual and parts list and 3 chokes. 1 in the bbl, 2 in the box. Id go back and raise ****. Should come with a full, mod and imp cyl. Actually you should use a IC or Cyl for rifled slugs. I found better performance with IC. Modified is getting in the range of too tight and depending on how many you shoot may mean a stuck choke tube. Also if youre gonna shoot slugs in it Id suggest investing in a Hoppes Tornado brush to remove the lead. It wont hurt the bore. Besides that read the box your ammo comes in. Most manufacturers suggest using a IC choke.

Either one is nice. They perform very well from what Ive seen. Just depends on what youre willing to spend. Gotta pay to play. Id research it pretty good and put one in my hands before doin anything though.

Yeah the Sarge is very right. Those things cant be replaced so its gotta be right. Theres alot of things that must be done to do it right. As far as I know, only the 20 ga Nova has an extra lip on the inside of the stock so it can be cut down and a smaller pad put on. I would think that if they can do it to the 20 ga they might think about doing it on the 12 ga in the future.

Nope, youve got nailed. The hose is designed to take up the extra space. Keeps it from floping back and forth....like John Kerry, lol. Just cut it to fit so its kinda snug when you close the door of the bracket.

Had pretty good patterns with the Hevishot buck. Havent hit a deer with it yet but I'll get to find it out this weekend. I dont worry much with 3 1/2 buck. 3 inch seems to shoot just as good and in mine actually throws a better pattern. Nothing tighter than a modified. Mostly I use a custom light modified from Briley or Imp. Cyl in mine. Just in case you dont know, a full choke wont get you a tighter pattern with buckshot just a stuck choke tube. Oh, and good luck finding the Hevishot buck, its kinda hard to find. Should tell ya something. Other than that just a standard Fed or Win 00 buck 3" mag should do the trick.

The rattle is ok...sheeesh! It's just the inertia spring rattling in the bolt. They all do it. And use a good oil in the gun, something with some viscosity to it instead of a thin oil. Make sure you put it in the recoil assy and on the bolt rails. Before you ask how you get it into the recoil assy. On any SBE with the barrel off, look at the end of the recoil plunger at the rear of the receiver and push it down with something like a cleaning rod, drip some oil down into the walls of the tube and work it up and down. That should be enough to oil it. Benellis love oil, pay no attention to the myths.

Think he was trying to sell you something. Look at the warranty card. Benelli's only have a 5 year warranty. If you wanna put it in perspective go look at buying an outboard motor for 7 grand and see what the warranty is on it.....1 year. Aint that something? Even the new ATV I bought only has a 1 year warranty on it.

With just the 2 shot ext. I found that the original spring can be used. As for the piece of hose. After inserting the reducer, insert the hose and cut it to length so that when you close the door on the bracket it firmly holds the reducer into place so it dosent flop back and forth.

Heres a little help. Take the forend and if you have a half round file or cabinet rasp, remove some of the plastic inside the forend. The area that needs to be releived is the first section on the inside towards the rear of the forend. It's about 1 1/2 inches up in the rear of the forend on the left and right sides. Have done it to mine and it works smooth as silk.

Caution!!! The mag tube is threaded into the receiver with loctite. The only way to access the mag tube is to unscrew it from the receiver. OK, be careful in doing this and if in doubt, dont do it. Remove the trigger assy, bbl, and forend. Put the mag tube in a padded vise (not too tight in fear of crimping it but tight enough to hold it well). Use a heat gun or a very hot hair dryer not a torch of any kind at all to heat the area where the mag tube screws in. Heating this area will loosen the loctite, mind it will have to be very hot. It will not harm the finish as long as a flame is not used. Using a proper fitting hammer handle or other device, insert it into the receiver near the entrance to the magtube to turn it off. They are coarse threads and they are right hand. Clean it and then when reinstalling the magtube use at least a blue loctite to hold it on. This must be done because the barrel headspaces off the magtube and if it comes unscrewed the barrel will move foreward out of battery. Hope this helps.

If what youre meaning is the ring that attatches to the mag tube is longer than your original piece, dont be alarmed. The foot of the barrel hanger was lengthened to provide extra support and soldering area to enhance the strength of it. With a slight modification of your forend you can make it fit. This was just a running change and the newer forends on the more modern guns are made to accomodate for it. Let me know if you need advise on the mod. If you cant just send it to Benelli and they will make the mod free of charge like they did for a friend of mine.