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About IdahoDucker

  • Birthday 02/28/1969

Personal Information

  • Location
    Meridian, Idaho
  • Interests
    take a guess
  • Occupation
    Fence Construction
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IdahoDucker's Achievements

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  1. Benelli's inertia driven guns aren't designed for low recoil ammo like what you have used in your M2 so far. They require a certain amount of energy to operate unlike gas guns that just need gas pressure. In your manual is says that if you have trouble with low recoil ammo in a new gun you should put at least 75-100 rounds of "standard hunting" ammo through it. I'd recommend half a dozen boxes of 2 3/4 or 3 inch lead with at least 1 3/8 ounces of shot and high velocity. Magnum type stuff. "Low recoil" buck shot doesn't count. If you look at Benelli's M3 you'll see that it is changeable from semi to pump specifically for using low recoil type ammo. I have two SBE's and neither has a problem with light loads but they also have a few thousand rounds of duck loads through them. On the other hand, my Ultralight has never had anything but dove loads in it with no problems. So, put a bunch of serious loads through it and then see how it does.
  2. No but cabelas has a smokin deal on hevi-steel if you like that stuff. They are out on the web site but if you have a local store they may have some left. The store here is now out of 3" 4s but I am stocked for years to come.
  3. I'm relaying this from someone else. He has a Montefeltro and recently shot an identical Monte with the same ammo back to back and claims his has much more recoil. Neither gun has been modified. He thinks maybe he has a bad spring but I think a bad spring would simply cause function problems not excessive recoil. Any thoughts?
  4. Lots of things can cause poor grouping and it's usually not the gun itself unless it's old AND worn out. Sometimes new guns won't group well until they've have 100 rounds, give or take, through them. It can be the brand of ammo or just the particualy bullet weight or design within a given brand. Be sure all the screws are tight on both the gun and scope mount/rings. Were the rings properly aligned before the scope was mounted. Unfortunately there are lots of gun counter kids out there whos expertise stops at just knowing how to turn a screwdriver. And last but definately not least, is the shooter. No offense intended but you said you were new to the gun so maybe you're relatively new to shooting as well. Being consistant at the bench is pretty important. Stay in one position throughout a group. Don't move the gun off the rest and don't get up and walk around. Sit there and relax a little between shots. Try not to stare through the scope too long. One rule of thumb is you have 6 seconds of looking through the scope before you start playing tricks on yourself. If you haven't already, get with an experienced shooter. Have them watch you shoot and also see if they have the same problems with your gun. And like oldboots said. Let it cool down a little between shots and even longer between groups. The best way to do that is to get a couple more rifles so you have something to do while one is cooling off. I wouldn't worry about things like the deresonator until you can get consistanty good groups without it. Once you're there it MIGHT make a good group better.
  5. Snug it down. They call them flush tubes but mine seat down inside a tad too. Good idea to use some choke tube lube or gun oil on the threads as they can get stuck but that normally only happens from neglect. Welcome to the forum and you picked one heck of a gun to get started with. Have fun.
  6. Not here. Just did a couple one word searches and it worked fine.
  7. Try these. Might have to call to see if they actually have them in stock. http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=104197 http://www.impactguns.com/store/BEN-BARREL-SBEII-M.html
  8. If you've only got one box through it give it two or three more boxes of mag loads. Benelli recommends a break in period with hunting loads.
  9. That's new to me. What is it about fire ants that keeps quail away? I'd assume the quail would eat them.
  10. Nice but I think I'm going to cry. Should be another excellent season up in Idaho but I'm stuck working way down here in Phoenix until mid November and then it looks like I'll be sent to Los Angeles of all places. Maybe I'll get a week or two off between projects.
  11. Haven't seen any used recently but you might find new ones here. http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=9935_16854&sort=3a&filter_id=201 http://www.impactguns.com/store/benelli_barrels.html
  12. Danner Pronghorns. Uninsulated. They're very light and hold up well. On my second pair in 4 years but I wear them to work too.
  13. I shoot an SBE for ducks and geese and normally I use fast #3 steel. 1500 fps+. 2 3/4 or 3" with a modified choke. Same with geese just #2, B or BB. When my wallet is feeling fat I like hevi-shot 2's for geese. If I'm confident of under 30 yard shots for ducks I use 2 3/4 #6s with an improved cylinder choke.
  14. No pain, no gain. When it hurts but you don't mind you're on the right track.
  15. While I'm nowhere near an expert when it comes to competetive clay shooting of any kind, I have to say that confidence in your gun makes a big difference. If it fits and just naturally goes where you want it you're a step ahead. I'm not sure what to tell you about adding weight to an Ultra Light but I think it would be a detraction from what it was meant to be. I'm a recent BIG fan of the Ultra Light when it comes to hunting. I've been shooting an SBE for several years and have been totally satisfied. Found a used Ultra Light recently and couldn't resist. Now I have one shotgun dedicated for upland and one for waterfowl. If you like to hunt and aren't bothered by 12 gauge recoil I think you'll be very happy with the Ultra Light. Use it as it is for now and get your dedicated clay gun later. P.S. Welcome to the Benelli forums and the best sporting shotguns ever made.
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