Unobtanium

The loctite will bond well to the oxided steel, if it is properly cleaned first. Very good bond. The IIIA anodizing, not really. It is very non-reactive. What will occur is the loctite will harden normally, and bond very well to the fasteners, but for a weak bond to the aluminum. Loctite 243, or a primer, is needed for it to adhere properly to the anodized aluminum. I went through this with a Ti magazine tube. It bonded VERY POORLY with the Ti (very VERY non-reactive), and only bonded to the aluminum of my upper very slightly, in areas that had been nicked, etc. or were rough and afforded a physical purchase (vs. chemical). This can be seen when removing the OEM magazine tube from the M1014/M4. Most, if not all, of the factory loctite type adhesive is bonded to the tube itself, and much less, much weaker, to the aluminum receiver. This is my experience with almost half a dozen of them, anyway. I am not 100% sure what amount of rotation equates to 20 inch-pounds with your thread pitch, but between 1 and 2 "hours" should be pretty close. Close enough to work, if correct thread-locker is used, and not enough to strip anything. I tend to tighten things "by feel", and will likely exceed this spec on my own, personally, by a small margin. Please see this resource for more information on Loctite and material compatibility: http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/using-a-loctite-threadlocker-14064.htm Right now, I am busy trying to figure out what I want to put in that mount an "lego" it together.

Maybe just the body could be removed, if you get the mount 100% on the tail cap.

Looking at the setup, the light would have to be removed from the mount every time the batteries are changed. This makes the E-series setup much more appealing to me, although you may not care, as the E-series batteries are changed via removing the head. The 500 lumen TIR optics in the E-series will also put out serious light. The P3X is only 1000 lumens for a few seconds, and then nose-dives HARD over about 3 minutes to the 6-700 lumen mark. Just an FYI of full disclosure in case that matters to you before you spend the coin on that light.

Further, you want to use a primer like SD, or you want to use Loctite 243. Anodized aluminum is not very reactive, and Loctite 242 without a primer will not do nearly so well. 20 inch-pounds, on a screw with a finer pitched thread, will be roundly 1.5 "hours" on a clock face of a turn. I would hand-tighten and then go 1.5 "hours" using the long handle for leverage...but not more. Of course, AVA can fine-tune that recommendation, based on thread-pitch used.

Good deal. I am sorely tempted. Your product looks far better than the other options this forum has seen over the years.

I saw the kx2c head, it is 1.0". The new scouts and eb1 uses a 1.1", I believe. Will these new lights clear barrel?

Does it tighten around the barrel, or does the barrel merely pass through? Have the harmonics loosened the mount any, or worn the finish from the barrel or cause rub marks, etc? How many and what kind of rounds where fired before opinion on the above was formed? Also, is there a version which direct mounts surefire scout lights? I'm sorry if I asked anything previously answered, I'm out of town on my mobile. Looking at some land.

I bought mine about two years ago NIB, unfired, factory box, paperwork, etc. For $2500.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXHUdvvHTkw Surely some lucky lady you know would be willing to help you?

Be sure to correctly re-stake things or you will have more functional issues than the cosmetic one you started with.

Well if people are whining about how it was boxed (considering it got to them safely), it must be a darn fine product for that to be all the was "wrong" with it?

It's just profit margin, then. Would you rather they raise their prices $5 per item and ship for $4? They have a set profit margin on each item that they feel comfortable with, and if some of it does in fact come from shipping, well, so it does. Same difference.

It's an air rifle (But yes, I've bought and paid for it and it's just sitting at Daniel Defense's storage for NFA weapons until paperwork clears, when it will set with my suppressor at my dealer's...until paperwork clears. Sigh.)

It's not an m4.

Seriously? Was it an M1014 or an M4S90 barrel? I missed this one...

Please post a picture of the M4 so that we can better answer your questions as regards to the model differences, etc.

So...what is 300BLK? What can it do? Why does it exist? This handy .pdf file answers every question you might have, and some you don't. http://www.dtic.mil/ndia/2012armaments/Wednesday13590Silvers.pdf

Oh, I still have my epic M1014 with Geissele hammer, CC Ti tube, CC BLACK Ti handle (be jealous ), Meprolites, and a dose of awesome!

I went .30 cal this go! I'm just waiting on tax stamps for this: http://www.surefire.com/tactical-equipment/sound-suppressors/rifle-carbine-suppressors/762-mm-308-caliber/socom762-rc.html and for this: https://danieldefense.com/rifles/pistol-length-gas-system/daniel-defense-m4-carbine-300-sbr.html

All of Surefire's warfighter gear is Barry Compliant from what I understand.

It honestly may be once you factor in packing materials, man-time, and actual freight. Shipping has gotten stoopid.

Get the 1/2" handle and it should be fine. Not optimal, but I don't forsee it taking a dump on you this century. If for some crazy reason it does, it will not happen "at once". The only failure method I could imagine is the peening outlined prior, and that will be gradual and likely self-limiting.

Respectfully, I have had issues with the OEM spring. I have confirmed---like you---that the spring IS THE SAME for the USMC M1014 as it is the 5-shot tubes they ship with to civilian/non-LE customers. However, nonetheless, I did have issues when firing magnum 2.75" buckshot, etc. and strongly recommend one of Kip's or some sort of aftermarket solution.

Wow...I need to call Kip and see how he's doing. 7 months is crazy long even for CC. That's NFA wait-time material.

You need to post up the barrel-length it was made for. They are very specific.