Hookster

It was probably the naked girl holding the 121 M1.....

ZZZZzzzzzzz.........

Thanks Tucker, I've got a TLR-1, TLR-2, X300 and Insight M3 and M3x I just noticed this HP TLR model today though. I'm not sure how long it's been out but I'm interested in what it can do as far as good illumination at distance. I may just go ahead and order one to play around with. Later, Hookster

They look like fun though don't they?....

Thanks, I know they can be had cheaper than Brownells, that was just the first shopping link I grabbed. Just looking for opinions. (weight, beam power at distance etc) Have you tried one out?

Has anyone tried the HP model? I'd be interested in opinions especially about percieved weight with it mounted forward on an AR rail http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=104336/pid=54308/Product/TLR-1-HP-STD-WEAPON-LIGHT?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&mc_id=10000&gdftrk=gdfV21820_a_7c187_a_7c3466_a_7c100009755_d_100009755_d_10072 Later, Hookster

Hi df! Here is a copy of Kips instructions: Tools required; > Heat gun.(Refrain from using flame devices, torches, etc., they are overkill and have the potential of discoloring the finish on the receiver) > Snap ring pliers. > Stiff nylon or brass bristled tooth-brush, Q-tips and acetone. > Rubber grip pad. (Similar to a jar lid gripper, or even a piece of tire inner tube) > Padded vise. (not required but helpful if done alone without an assistant) Before proceeding please ensure the firearm is completely unloaded, clear mag tube and chamber, firearm on safe. Lock the bolt to the rear, then remove the factory barrel nut (by hand), set the barrel, bolt group, and handguards to the side. Using snap ring pliers set to compress when gripped, carefully remove the spring retainer from the end of the factory mag tube, (keep it aimed away from your face, with your other hand over the end so that the spring can be safely contained when it is "set free"). Then tilt the gun downwards, allowing the spring and follower to fall out. Place gun in a lightly clamped padded vise (ensuring the bolt release button is not clamped), between your knees, or in the hands of a competent assistant. Using the heat gun set to a maximum 400 F, apply direct heat to the full circumference of the mag tube where it meets the receiver, allowing heat to reach the receiver as well, continue rotating the heat around the junction until the two are beyond unbearable to touch (using an infra-red thermometer if available, you will typically see results when the receiver temp nears 250F), favor application of heat to the receiver, as it retains heat more efficiently. At that temp (around 250F) you should be able to begin twisting the factory tube off [ccw](here's where the rubber grip pad does double duty as a heat shield, and provides much better grip than bare hands). Do not use a pipe wrench for a few reasons, 1st it will damage your factory tube, but foremost it will provide excessive torque that may allow you to force removal before the loc-tite is ready to let go. Once it starts to turn, the battle is won, just keep it turning until it is free. Next clean the internal threads with acetone, Q-tips, and the nylon or brass tooth brush. It will look scary at 1st since the residue from the factory loc-tite is chalky white, but once you have it all cleaned off, you should be looking at the pristine black anodized receiver threads where the old tube use to be. You are now ready to install your replacement tube. Don't forget to transfer the handguard's stamped steel rear brace onto the new tube BEFORE threading it into the receiver, it is a "captured part" that has to be in place during assembly. Most people opt to fore-go the use of loc-tite, simply torqing in their new tube as tight as can be done by hand. If you use loc-tite, make sure you check the data sheet, and select a grade that can be heated for removal with LOW HEAT like the factory used. Typically just a drop of medium strength Loc-Tite brand "blue" will be sufficient if you use any at all. Replace all the remaining components, and enjoy!! Later, Hookster

Hey Loupis, Brownells has them for $8.99 here: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=23654/Product/FRONT-SIGHT-RETAINING-NUT Later, Hookster

My credit card is at the ready!!!!!!!!!!!!!!...... )

Success!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!...... :-)

Hi Claychaser and welcome to the forum!! If there isn't anything else apparent , it could very well be the recoil spring. Here's a very good old thread by forum member Remarkable regarding recoil spring issues/maint/replacement, I cut and pasted it instead of posting a link so it doesn't go into moderator limbo: My experience with Benelli Autoloaders is quite extensive. I purchased one of the original Montefeltro’s imported by H&K and have worked on and performed year end maintenance on over 200 guns models listed above and the Nova. I’m sure everyone knows how to “field strip” your gun, I will not cover this however I will add what may be of value from my experience. What most Benelli owners do not know about the gun they own is, the vital component listed as the recoil spring and the recoil spring tube. This will be the focus of this writing because it is not covered in the Benelli owner’s manual. With the knowledge and understanding of this maintenance and process, the problems experienced in cycling issues could be completely eliminated. It is vital that your recoil spring maintenance be performed on a yearly basis, the exceptions would be low usage or submerged gun. Removing the Butt Plate requires a thin shaft Philips screwdriver with a number #2 head. Apply oil to the Butt Plate screw holes before inserting the screw driver. This will minimize the damage to the rubber. Remove Butt Plate. Insert a 13mm deep socket in the back of the stock and remove the stock retaining nut, this nut will need to be torque to 22 lbs upon assembly. The stock assembly and drop change shim will come off. To remove the recoil spring, the stock retaining nut SCREW will need to be removed from the recoil spring tube. This will require a 17mm closed end wrench. Older Benelli’s will not have the nut attached to the stock retaining screw; this will make the process more difficult. To remove the stock retaining nut screw, my experience has been in most circumstances heat will be required to address the locktite which has been applied to the screw from the factory. Place the receiver assembly in a vise just tight enough to hold the receiver be careful not to crush receiver. Protect the receiver to eliminate damage. Heat the stock retaining nut screw near the recoil spring tube with a Bic type lighter for up to one minute. This is all I ever needed to slacken the locktite. Then place your closed end wrench on the nut and loosen. Care must be taken when removing the screw the assembly is under pressure of the recoil spring. The recoil spring ready to be removed and the recoil spring plunger. Upon assembly do not use locktite, this processed should be performed annually anyway. Concluding, the recoil tube should be cleaned with gun scrub and a 20 gauge wire brush inserted through the tube. The recoil spring should be cleaned as well. My experience with the factory recoil spring has been less than desired. I have replaced factory springs after one year on M1’s model number 11045 serial numbers M400240 and M400239. The original Montefeltro springs seemed better, lasting 10 years. I replace the recoil spring with Wolff 25% extra power spring. Keep in mind these are hunting guns and do not shoot low base 7/8 0z shells. Wolff 25% reduced power spring works well for light loads. You will know when your spring needs to be replaced when the bolt assembly does not rotate to the closed position after shooting the first shell, when your gun is properly maintained. This failure increases when shooting in cold weather and shooting directly overhead, when the bolt faces the force of gravity. Assembly of the recoil spring requires minimal usage of synthetic spray lube, just enough to lubricate and protect metal. Excessive oil will collect more powder residue. Synthetic will minimize congeal at low temps. When reassembling the gun it would be helpful to install your trigger assembly, this will make the alignment of the stock easier. The bolt assembly should be kept clean. I use a few drops of Break Free inside of the receiver assembly on the bolt rails, this should be all the lubricant you will need after cleaning the assembly with gun scrub. A “dry” clean magazine assembly, dry meaning no lubricant, will create the same symptom of the bolt assembly not rotating closed in cold weather as well. This cost me a double on Canada Geese this year because I was to lazy to field strip my Benelli and lube it properly when encountering cold weather. The field striping and lubricating noted above can be performed in a few minutes after a few repetitions. I am hopeful this summary may be helpful. Performing complete and well timed maintenance will go a long way towards keeping your Benelli in great operating condition. Nothing is worse than a semi autoloading shotgun that becomes a single shot. I wish I would have had this information when I purchased my first Benelli.

Pics!!!!!!.............

Agreed.....Everything is a trade-off

You're right!.... Now maybe I can hit something with that sucker....

Yea it's too bad the Urbino did not live up to all our expectations. I'm an "ultimate reliability" over all else guy as well. It sure would be nice if Benelli offered a shorter LOP stock option. Later, Hookster

Congrats Unobtanium!! I like your bolt release, was it machined from scratch or made using an existing part? I'd love to hear any more thoughts you have on the Urbino as well, are you totally happy with it other than the Limbsaver? Later, Hookster

+1 on Joshua's comments! I'd like to hear some results from field testing... I'm sure any tolerance issue with the coating, if there are any, would quickly resolve itself from the first 100 round break-in. Later, Hookster

boom! boom! boom! boom! boom! boom! boom! boom! boom!......

Check out the M2 3-gun model video posted by M1014...If they are running X-rails reliably I'm sure you can get away with your extension and light

Impressive Sir!! I love the your pics and the video!! Your definitely got something nice to show for your hard efforts...Congrats again.......BTW what happend to your trademark color markers in the trigger guard for pics?...

Congrats on the new baby M1014!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It came stock with the Nordic tube and release?.......More pics of her assembled please! Hookster

Hi mdrums and welcome to the forum! Surefire makes some very nice light integrated forearms for the M2 http://www.surefire.com/illumination/weaponlights/shotgun-forend/benellisuper90snabovem104800.html beyond that the more weight you add (sidesaddles etc) the more the chance you may have cycling issues but as long as you stick to high power loads you can probably get away with the light and an extension. I have an extension on my M1 and have never had an issue Later, Hookster

Hey brobin, I believe the only thing thats not a common tool would be a 3/32 roll pin punch and something to use as a slave pin, like a drill bit, to keep everything aligned while you get the roll pin re-installed Later, Hookster

Me Likey too!!!

Lots of places! I won't bother trying to post a link because it will probably send this reply to moderator limbo but just google Meprolight 34302, Those are the ones you want for an M4, That was the first thing I changed out on mine. Later, Hookster:)