StrangerDanger

[video=youtube_share;xjFTfRLOKj0]

That makes sense actually. I was wondering if the Limbsaver was a benefit for follow up shots or if it was just slowing the recoil impulse down and spreading it over a larger footprint. For the average shooter, I think the Limbsaver is a big improvement.

That's the issue. We're in the heart of Benelli M4 territory, and we have two of three guys posting. Probably take forever to sell a 100 units. I'm actually surprised that Noveske makes an adapter plate at all. Must have been a personal interest of someone there.

No webpage currently. Really small time operations. I've been before many times, but unlikely I'll attend this year.

I hear ya. Making a specific plate will be the costly part. Everyone loves making curved cuts on a manual mill. Chopping the Noveske plates works pretty well. It's not ideal, but it worked. I even fired a bunch of the value pack #7.5 and #8 birdshot to see if it would cause any cycling issues. It only failed when I intentionally limp shouldered it. It does the same on the stock M4. Not one single failure when using the heavy buckshot loads. Some of which I did slow motion recordings of, which are awesome in 1080i resolution. I wonder how a hole saw a 7/8" would do? No real need to drill away the material in the center?

It actually doesn't matter. Inside the Limbsaver is hollow. So once you get thru the plastic plate, there is a sufficient void to exploit.

That will work. Do you have a bit that is 7/8"? That's a pretty good size bit. I bought a forestners set of bits which worked well. Another trick is to compress the Limbsaver so your drill vice grips the plastic part of the Limbsaver. Most vices aren't tall enough to grip the base of the pad without compressing it first. The rubber part is too pliable to try to hold with the vice.

You may have to modify the Vikings Tactical tailcap or even the shrouded Surefire Scout tailcap if you want to use it with this mount. The mount holds the light so close to the weapon that it will likely hit the handguards. I've seen it done, and it can come out really nice. Personally I don't like shrouded tailcaps on a 12 gauge. Touching off 12 gauge while riding the momentary button can be painful depending on the loads being fired.

Some day maybe. I don't trust myself enough to thread other peoples parts yet!

You could do it with the drill and a Dremel if you had a half hour to spare. How clean of a hole it is doesn't really matter much. Even the angle of the drilling is mostly for cosmetics no one will ever see and to keep the smallest possible hole. If you have a drill press (mill would be better actually,) this is the best option. If it doesn't have a vice though, you risk it grabbing the work and ripping it out of your hand. Locating where to drill the hole is probably the hardest part of all. The shaking sharpie method works rather well surprisingly.

My preferred setup is a Surefire Outdoorsman body and tailcap with a Surefire 500 lumen Scout light head. Remove the pocket clip, and swap the Scout head for the E2L's and you're good to go. http://www.amazon.com/SureFire-E2L-Outdoorsman-LED-Flashlight/dp/B00CHHFIBA http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/surefire-ke2-a-500-lumen-weaponlight-conversion-head-black/

Just got back for testing. Huge improvement in recoil management over the OEM buttpad. I shot around a 100 rounds of 2 3/4 high brass buckshot along with a couple hundred rounds of value pack birdshot. The Burnt Bronze M4 has the Limbsaver installed and the black M4 had OEM buttpad. The Limbsaver definitely takes the bite off of the heavy recoiling rounds. I didn't experience any reliability issues with the high brass rounds. I didnt perceive any negative affects from drilling out the buttpad to allow the stock to fully collapse. Overall, it was worth while upgrade. Just a real pita to install.

Testing got postponed until tomorrow due to excessive wind.

I'd never fire the weapon with it fully collapsed anyway. My concern is taking the support for that rubber plug away and how the recoil energy will dissipate.

I'll definitely look at it as an option. I knocked out this project today and mounted it up to my Burnt Bronze M4. I got it so that the stock will still collapse completely. The project isn't for the faint of heart. I considered returning all the parts several times and giving up. I'm taking the M4's out tomorrow to test them to see if the Limbsaver causes any functional problems. I'll compare to a collapsible stock with the OEM buttpad to get a real feel for if the pad helps, hinders or is indifferent to various loads. First of all, the fasteners you need for this is a M4 0.7 pitch metric thread. You want fasteners that are 8mm in length. I tried 10mm versions, and they were too long. You also want to get a fastener that has a head that matches the countersunk hole in the bracket. I got these at Home Depot very cheap. With the Noveske plate, I cut the bracket so that the pass thru hole for the receiver extension was unobstructed. I ran the part over an electric sanding station to true up the edges. These parts won't be visible. Since they're aluminum, you won't have any corrosion concerns. If you're worried about the appearance, hit it with some Alumablack. Locktite the fasteners once you complete your final assembly. Now, to make the receiver extension fully collapse and lock into position, you're going to need to drill a hole into the Limbsaver approximately 7/8" in diameter and at an angle to match the angle of the receiver extension. The inside of the Limbsaver is hollow, so you won't have to drill through any inner medium. All you have to get through is the tough plastic base. Realistically, the only way to do this correctly is with a drill press (or a mill.) You need some method of clamping the butt pad to the plate. You're clamping a squishy object, so the tighter you clamp it, your angle changes. I elected for a 7 degree tilt of the table to match the angle of the receiver extension. What I did was I tested the angle on a piece of scrap wood. I drilled my angled hole into the wood and seated it over the end of the stock and determined that the angle was correct. To get a center point to drill, I installed the Limbsaver and dropped a silver Sharpie down the end of the collapsible stock with the lid off. I shook it around and let it dance for a few seconds. When I removed the Limbsaver, it had a pretty good area covered in silver showing me where the hole was located. I then scribed a center line between the two screw holes. The boring bit I used was meant for wood, so I had to go really slow to avoid it grabbing the material. Now, the inside of the Limbsaver is a hollow cavity that has a large rubber plug in the center that is attached to the rubberized butt pad. This rubber plug is normally resting against the plastic plate that I just drilled through. When pressing the base of the butt pad with your thumb, you can see the plug move easily. How this will affect the performance of the pad will be determined tomorrow. When collapsing the stock completely, you can feel the end of the receiver extension fill the void.

Thank you guys for the kind words.

If you have facebook, give it a try. I've had better luck making contact there. No need to worry about the order though. They all take forever to fill.

Thanks! Always a pleasure.

For 2016, I'm happy to announce that I have my FFL Type 1 in place so that I can accept serialized firearms for work. What this means is now clients can send me the serialized portion of their weapons for gun smithing services. The firearms can then be UPS shipped directly back to you. Barring some problem with the parts, my turn around time is usually the following day. As some of you may know, I've assisted dozens of forum members with their M4's. From doing 922® upgrades to their trigger packs to replacing their bastardized receiver extensions with three position units. I would prefer to help you do the work yourself so you learn the necessary skills to do the work yourselves; but realize sometimes that isn't an option for whatever reason. Here is a list of some of the options I've done for other clients; - Full length Magazine Tube installations - Replacing the Receiver Extensions on M1014 and older 11703's - Receiver extension flushing and lubrication - Night Sight installations - Top Rail Installations - Trigger pack disassembly and fitting of aftermarket components - Cleaning of the weapon in an ultrasonic tank - ARGO system disassembly and cleaning in the ultrasonic tank - Aftermarket bolt release installations - Replacing Field Stock and Pistol Grip Stock sling plate - Installation of QD sockets on collapsible stocks - Weapon light assembly/installation and Cerakote painting - Safety tension adjustments - Assessment and rebuilding of high mileage M4's with new springs - Test firing/troubleshooting/resolution - Middleman position for advanced Cerakote and surface treatment finishes such as Robar's NP3+ My shop is quite nice. You can say I'm a tool *****. Brownells loves me as does Starrett and Seekonk. The small amount I make on each job is put towards purchasing more tooling and equipment to be able to take on new projects. It also pays for the consumable shop items such as the various types of locktite, ultrasonic tank solvent, MAPP torch fuel and so on. I have over 40 feet of padded work bench area surrounded by a cornucopia of tooling in a clean, well lit shop. Non-forum members can email me at: [email protected] Everyone else, feel free to PM me or post on this thread to discuss what you would like to do. Thanks!

Thanks. I'll post one up assuming it isn't a complete fail. Noveske really did a poor job on the bracket. They could have easily sized it to the base of the butt pad and had plenty of room for a pass thru hole for the receiver extension. That would leave the end user with the task of drilling out a hole in the base of the Limbsaver for the extension. I also noted their bracket was poorly spec'ed. The alignment of the screw holes are off. The best way to fix it is to remove material from the edges that prevent the bracket from snugging up to the top and bottom lip or the stock butt pad pocket. I chopped the bracket into two pieces to remove the area that interferes with the receiver extension. Im expecting drilling into the Limbsaver to be a pain in the ass too. I don't expect the inner material to drill out well. I want to avoid drilling all the way they the pad for cosmetic and debris avoidance reasons. The material would likely be best cut out. How to do so cleanly will be a challenge. Plus you need to cut the hole out at an angle to follow the angle of the receiver extension. I want a mill so freaking bad. Even a cheap Chinese one would be easy to make a proper bracket plate with an appropriate hole.

Good luck. They're about as rare as the crystal skulls. If they were ever brought all together, it would end the world.

I'll get it done soon. I'll track what type fasteners I used to make it work. Hopefully a standard item from a hardware store.

I heard that same wives' tale about removing the receiver extensions.