StrangerDanger

I'll look tonight when I get home from Vegas.

Yes, part 112 on the diagram I posted. Where the spring and plunger cycle in.

Another option is to try flushing whatever lubricant the gunsmith applied inside the receiver extension. Often times if a grease or oil is too thick, it can retard the motion of the bolt and cause these kind of failures you described. Parts 110 and 112 should be cleaned thoroughly. If the firearm has a high round count, you might want to consider replacing the recoil spring (110.)

I've tried both the P3X and the 500 lumen Surefire Scout light. I stayed with the Scout light due to less barrel shadow and more throw (less flood.) The Scout assembly is significantly lighter too.

Top Rail Screws http://freedomfightertactical.com/products-page/miscellaneous-benelli-m4-parts/replacement-rail-screws/ Top Rail Washers http://freedomfightertactical.com/products-page/miscellaneous-benelli-m4-parts/replacement-rail-washers/

Yep, she's been going through a rough patch lately. She actually does a lot of the lathe work too. Not just answering phones and packing.

Are you typing in the [ img ] url [ / img] brackets? Make sure that your photobucket picture doesn't have any banned phrases in it. I get rejections with it randomly lists P S 3 in the url.

Screws: http://freedomfightertactical.com/products-page/miscellaneous-benelli-m4-parts/replacement-rail-screws/ Washers: http://freedomfightertactical.com/products-page/miscellaneous-benelli-m4-parts/replacement-rail-washers/ As for your rear sight, I'd take out the windage screw and see if the spring is OK. Reassemble if everything looks OK and try again.

I'm not sure what the wing's intention was other than possibly some lateral support. The ring was mainly a visual aid for users seating the barrel to ensure that it was fully seated.

It should work fine.

Good job Xchief30. No issues jamming your thumb under recoil with the shroud? I'd be interested in the Arisaka bodies too. It would be far more secure than a ring mount system.

I've met with Bill Geissele a few times at SHOT. Great guy, better triggers. The SSA will fit the bill. I hear the new Larue triggers are supposed to go up against Geissele, but I haven't tried one yet personally.

This has been reported in the past year or so. Marcy at carriercomp was asking me about it a few months back. Looks like it is an inline production change.

A BLAM4 mount can be turned into an awesome QD mount. I made one a few years back.

Your factory spring should work with the 5 round tube or the full length unit. The Wolff spring should not need to be trimmed. Some shells are a little longer than the spec'd 2.75" length. s&B comes to mind.

Completely understand. Sorry it didn't work out.

Excellent tools. I'd like to make some up like that when I pry the lathe out of my father's cold dead hands. With my experience with Nickel Boron, I found that the coating was rather thick and caused tolerance issues. With my recent coatings with NP3, I found there wasn't much change in tolerances. So I think having the hammer/disconnector coated would work. Since I screwed up part of my last order, I need to have another order completed. I think I'm going to have the items coated. Mainly I'm interested in having the NP3 on the portion of the hammer that makes contact with the bolt carrier. I have this cheapo set of snap ring pliers from Ace. I like them better than my expensive set from Channellock. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1286443&KPID=991176&kpid=991176&pla=pla_991176

Mounts look good in NP3!

Figured I'd share. NP3 finished Scalarworks rail and mounting hardware. Unit is going on a Benelli M4 H20.

Benelliwerks, Did you modify your roll pin holder so it isn't so deep? On all of mine, the pin is so short that it nearly sits entirely in the recess. I guess a spacer could be used, preferably a magnetic one. I just haven't sourced it and deal with the cussing. Just finished assembly of this trigger pack for a H20. FFT trigger, FFT disconnector, TTI shell elevator, TTI safety, Geissele Hammer. All parts NP3 coated except I didn't mess with the trigger/disconnector/hammer sears.

Taking the pin out is very easy. It'll fall out if you take the spring tension off of the disconnector and hold the unit just right. With the right tools you'll get it -- just expect some cussing. That tiny pin is tough to hold onto while holding the spring loaded disconnector in the right position. The pin fits rather loose, so driving it in with a punch isn't really needed. If everything is lined up, it will press in easily. Alignment or slave pins help some, but it's still hard to manipulate such a tiny pin. Trying to displace a slave pin with such a tiny pin is frustrating. I think I showed a technique in the trigger pack disassembly guide that worked the best for me.

No problem! You'll be fine with the gg&g follower. If it were ever in question, you could show them what gg&g claims. Look ok up my pictorial on the trigger group for swapping out the disconnector. Getting the pin back into place can be a PiTA.

Nah. Going to a buddy in Australia for his H2O. He runs an invasive species eradication company. So he'll be spanking hogs and roo's in the cane fields with it. Robar just called this this morning and said the parts were all coated. The Ava Tactical mount should look slick coated. All the way down to the fasteners. Should have it all back by Monday for reassembly.

Are you going to have the stock painted to match? The contrast comes out very nice. Everyone teases the original tan version. It looks like it belonged in the Gulf War I with their chocolate chip camo.

Pigs in Australia won't be sending you any good karma. Honestly, best deal I've seen on here in a very long time.