StrangerDanger

Congratulations. Nice Christmas present. I hit some snags on the installation since none of the screws really fit the M4's collapsible stock. It's become a real PITA. I cut the Noveske mounting bracket already. That was relatively easy and should work fine. I need to get the thread size off of the existing screws and find some hardware that will actually work. Once that's done, I'll look into drilling out the Limbsaver to allow the receiver extension to pass thru the buttpad.

Glad it helped!

Marcy has had some serious medical problems for most of 2015. She does a lot of the lathe work on these items. So they've been running at a reduced staff position for a while. Their difficulty to to get also inflates their value. I've sold several used for retail price without an issue. Good ol supply and demand economics -- the pinnacle of white privilege and source of micro aggression.

Typical wait time is around 6 months lately. I was busting their balls on facebook a week or so ago and got some response. Trying to motivate them to make some bolt handles.

Would have been nice if they gave proper fasteners.

Glad to hear the QD sockets are holding up thru just the plastic body.

Good to hear no goo poured out of the Limbsaver. You going to trim the Noveske plate so the top and bottom mounting position has the Limbsaver compatible mounting hole? The heavy duty plastic base of the Limsaver should act as the support brace. I should receive my Noveske plates today. I'll mount one up and see if it functions and causes any cycling failures tomorrow hopefully.

Interesting. Think it would be an issue to drill a hole into the Limbsaver to allow the receiver extension to pass into the pad? The plate might be okay to cut down into two pieces.

I'll keep my eyes open for you. The only one I have on hand is a FFT produced model.

Look into Hexolit32 steel slugs. Their recoil is mild for a slug and the damage is impressive. They feel more like shooting 2 3/4 buckshot (not the low recoil stuff.) I keep them in my burnt bronze M4 at the house. We have bull elk here that aren't afraid of people. They're in my yard literally daily. Sometimes they get pretty aggressive particularly during the rutting season. I'm sure they'd work well on a home intruder too.

That's how it always starts. Chasing what's the best. Then you find out the aftermarket options and double the cost of the already expensive platform. Then once you're done with it, you start considering a second. It's a sickness.

Great reply. Didn't realize the RM06 had the auto gain feature. I'd guess the batter life would be the same if left on the auto adjust setting. I keep hearing the batteries are good for two years.

Congratulations. You're going to like it.

Not sure who to hate, photobucket or this forum software. If it's random url string generated a forbidden word, it blocks it out with asterisks. So you have to reload the photo to photosuckit and try again. I do quite a few night shoots. Enough to put B.E. Meyers 249 flash suppressors on my .223 rifles for this exact reason. Most of the time your natural night vision is blown the moment the first shot is fired. Everything else is just directed fire unless you kill the flash. My thanks for the compliments. Doesn't look bad after 11 years, and 13,000+ rounds. It has had a facelift though! Right now it's Ava Tactical light mount and the 500 lumen light is out being painted to match the shotgun at Controlled Chaos.

Got my tracking slip from Noveske. Should get to do the assembly some time this weekend. I hope to find a day next week to take them out for trials.

I could see it being an issue on a long range precision optic. However, on this combination, your iron sights are literally co-witnessing the RMR's dot in the lower quadrant of the aperture. Plus, even if the dot was off, centering up a target in the center of the optic is going to likely result in hits at shotgunning range. Is it perfect? No, of course not. Is it better than having to manually adjust? I'd never take my hand off the fire controls or support to adjust an optic in a bad situation. I didn't care for the controls of the adjustable model RMR either. It wasn't as intuitive as say the rheostat style knob on the T1.

I did some more day/night testing on the Trijicon RMR R01, 3moa LED model. This is the constant on, no external buttons, no ability to turn it on or off other than pulling out the battery. I'm liking it better than the Aimpoint T1 and the Trijicon RMR Adjustable LED model. The reason being is the auto adjusting LED. Moving from different lighting settings, the LED model adjusts automatically. So in the dark, you aren't overpowering the FOV. Then when you move into a lit area, the dot's power increases automatically. Rather than having to adjust it manually like the LED Adjustable model or the venerable Aimpoint T1. Another plus is if you're storing the weapon in a safe, the dark safe will keep the power use pretty low. The middle position is perfect height for the Scalarworks/RMR mount height.

Video on my 'eyephone' 6s does 240fps. It's pretty awesome. 8 seconds of video to cover one real time second.

I'll run it on both M4's just to be sure. I have a wide range of ammunition I can try also. From anemic value pack to full house buck and slugs. I want to try the slow motion video on the M4's ejection port.

Received my Limbsavers. Still waiting on Noveske to give up the mounting plates though. I have three collapsible stocks, so I'll mount one Limbsaver and take a second with the OEM pad. I'll then try to get it to cause failures and determine it's value by swapping back and forth between the same weapon. I should be able to determine if there is any reduction in perceived recoil.

Unfortunately, not that I am aware of.

I started working on this before Benelliwerkes was nice enough to post his tutorial from his manual. Anyone notice I got a new camera? Eyephone 6S takes decent pictures!

Here is a photo showing the sling mount assembly overlaid on the stock. Now for reassembly, most of the reverse installation is pretty self-explanatory. There is one area that can cause grief though. You need to screw the Stock Retaining Pin in through the assembly and into the Stock Retaining Piece. The problem is, there is nothing to hold the Stock Retaining Pin by as you thread it in deep inside of the stock. This is how I do it. I have two of the Stock Retaining Nuts on hand. I screw the first Stock Retaining Nut onto the Stock Retaining Pin as shown below. You want to gently screw the Stock Retaining Pin into the Stock Retaining Piece with the aid of the Stock Retaining Nut and your 13mm deep socket driver. You don’t want to crank on this, because you’re going to need to get that nut back off. Once you’ve seated the Stock Retaining Pin all the way, install the second Stock Retaining Nut onto the recoil pad side of the Stock Retaining Pin. Tighten this nut firmly in place. At this point, you should be able to unscrew the first Stock Retaining Nut without risk of the Stock Retaining Pin moving. I would apply Locktite primer and blue Locktite to the threaded portion of the Stock Retaining Pin that the Stock Retaining Piece and permanent Stock Retaining Nut attach to. Do not put Locktite on the portion that screw into the receiver extension. The Stock Retaining Pin is 8mm in diameter x 1mm thread pitch. A nylon lock nut is ideal for using as a slave nut.