benelliwerkes

A small point of order: The notion that red and / or green lasers cannot be easily seen in the daytime is nonsense......we include them in the AlphaCase survival kits. These small handheld lasers powered by a single CR123 battery can easily be seen at distances of 1-5 miles in the daytime and 20 -30 miles at night. See attached.

That's the TriFecta ! right there.

I fabricated the brass pin holder punches, as none are made commercially. Grace makes a brass roll pin punch set, but as you may well know, a brass punch driving a steel roll pin usually doesn't work. I fabricated the forked tool. I usually make them from small screwdrivers. I find there is a commonality in gun assembly that often requires a similar type tool to get the same problem solved, i.e. simple insertion of a pin to hold a spring under compression. The trick of these situations is of course to get BOTH sides of the spring compressed while the pin is being inserted so you don't screw up the spring or get the pin located between a coil of the spring. The trick in fabricating the tool is to make it strong enough to compress the spring but thin enough to get into close tolerance spaces to do the task. I have attached a few photos of similar assemblies to the Benelli safety spring situation. Over the years I have compiled my own list of observations regarding tinkering with guns which some may find useful to remember. Gunsmith Tricks and Truism’s 1. Some pins will only move one way (either trigger headed, splined, flattened on one side) but appear the same on their ends. 2. Some pins that appear to be screws on the outside are just slotted for the purpose of: * proper external orientation of the pin internally for assembly e.g. Sig P226 locking block, left side * turning a release cam inside e.g. 1911 magazine catch button * act as a open-ended spring for retention e.g. Desert Eagle magazine catch button 3. A special tool is often needed and not disclosed in advance. 4. There is always a trick to make a daunting task seem easy. 5. Small parts and springs will tend to get lost – don’t forget the clear baggy trick. 6. You can never have a hard enough pin punch. 7. Penetrating oil (Kroil) is your friend. 8. Proper size gunsmith (hollow ground style) screwdriver or screw jack is a must. 9. Some parts look like they could go together in any order without making a difference….wrong. 10. Some parts can be installed completely backwards and still have the parts fit….but not work properly. 11. Never take apart a gun for the first time without a digital camera. 12. Removing pins, screws, threaded parts and wood pieces without ruining them, is 90 % of the game. 13. Some parts were never designed to be separated ….sometimes you just don’t know which ones. 14. You can never protect blued and varnished surfaces enough….tape protect non-work areas. 15. The manual you need in order to save yourself from misery is never available. 16. The screw that breaks off in the hole was the last one to be removed……and hardened. 17. If the parts don’t feel like they are not working together properly, they are not. 18. The wrong tool you thought would work usually scratches or buggers up the part. 19. An asymmetric spring without labeled ends can be a mystery. 20. The tell tale signs that your gun has been disassembled never occur on the inside. 21. The external appearance of a slotted screw gives no hint as to whether its right / left hand threaded. 22. Strike like with like; brass punch use brass hammer, steel punch use steel hammer. [ATTACH=CONFIG]730[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]731[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]732[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]733[/ATTACH]

Just get the 18" magazine tube and barrel as accessories to the 14" and then you will have nothing to lust for.

SideArmor has a first rate rail / cartridge holder as well. I use the Mod2 rail system.

The photo you started the post with is not a 14" M4. The SBS M4 has the barrel ring at the end of the magazine tube. See attached.[ATTACH=CONFIG]712[/ATTACH]

The use of the Daniel Defense open base mount allows a fair degree of co-witnessing of the sights. The mount though is too low for the optics though, forcing my head down to look thru the device. To solve those combined problems I use the LaRue quick disconnect mount (which has no see-thru base) in combination with the SureFire off-set sights, so they are not co-witnessed, but the arc of rotation is in the same radius off the long axis of the receiver, so there is no adjustment of sight alignment necessary; just a quick change of sight picture. It's a clever system you may want to consider. [ATTACH=CONFIG]707[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]708[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]709[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]710[/ATTACH]

No magazine extensions are included with the 14" M4.

Hammer Disassembly cont'd. Remember to check for proper function after working on the hammer group assembly. [ATTACH=CONFIG]706[/ATTACH]

Hammer Disassembly cont'd. [ATTACH=CONFIG]701[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]702[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]703[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]704[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]705[/ATTACH]

Submitted to satisfy Stranger Danger's curiosity. Same deal as before.....will require several posts. It's a simple process with simple tools. Use safety glasses for spring loaded parts! Take your time ; don't scratch your artwork. The annotated photos are self-explanatory. [ATTACH=CONFIG]696[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]697[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]698[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]699[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]700[/ATTACH]

Benelli Inertia System illustrations continued. [ATTACH=CONFIG]691[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]692[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]693[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]694[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]695[/ATTACH]

The operation of the inertia bolt system, like the M1 & M2, is ingenious in its simplicity. Here's some information and illustrations of just how it works and explains why malfunctions of the cycling action may occur when too many accessories are attached to the gun or the gun is not properly held. Here we go. The accompanying text to the my diagram, in case it is not clear in the photo. 1. Ready to fire position. Bolt head is in full battery; it is important to understand that the mass of the bolt is NOT rigidly locked to barrel-receiver, the bolt-head is! 2. Upon firing, the firearm recoils backwards into the shooter's body. The inertial mass, i.e. bolt, remains stationary. The bolt head remains instantaneously locked to barrel. The rearward force of the barrel-receiver compresses the spring into the still stationary inertia mass (bolt). Because the bolt is stationary but the bolt head lugs / barrel is moving rearward, the bolt head rotates by its cam surface within the stationary bolt and thus unlocks itself from the barrel lugs; the bolt head remains fully compressed against the front of the bolt. 3. The compressed inertia spring contains all the necessary energy to cycle the action; it now expands transferring its energy to the bolt moving it rearward (as now both bolt and gun are moving rearward). The action link spring is just beginning to be compressed, retarding the rearward bolt movement to allow time for the shot charge to exit the muzzle before the breech is fully open. The energy contained in the inertia spring also has to extract / eject the cartridge and cock the hammer spring. 4.The bolt is arrested in its fully rearward position and begins to move forward (with the rest of the gun) by the force of the expanding action recoil spring, pushing the next cartridge on the carrier into battery and again and locking the bolt head by rotation into the barrel lugs. 5. The shooter recovers from the shot, moving the firearm forward into position for the next shot. Caveats regarding this inertia mechanism: 1. The weapon MUST be free to sufficiently recoil about the bolt for this mechanism to work i.e. not secured in a rest or butt stock held against rigid ground. 2. Accessories that add too much mass to the gun can cause action cycling malfunctions. [ATTACH=CONFIG]687[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]688[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]689[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]690[/ATTACH]

Some more illustrations of hammer position versus cartridge drop position. Observe the "red dot" position as well. [ATTACH=CONFIG]682[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]683[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]684[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]685[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]686[/ATTACH]

These will illustrate how the bolt latch and the bolt interact to control the vertical position of the carrier. [ATTACH=CONFIG]680[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]681[/ATTACH]

Here's the next series of illustrations. The uploads are fairly clear; mostly to highlight the various engagements of the trigger sear with the hammer hook and disconnector, as well as illustrating how trigger is not engaged by either the disconnector or the hammer hook during bolt cycling. It may clarify understanding / misunderstandings of some posts related to disconnector discontent ! [ATTACH=CONFIG]675[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]676[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]677[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]678[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]679[/ATTACH]

The M Series Benelli cartridge drop lever, the carrier and the hammer actions are not generally illustrated for understanding of function. The Benelli manuals are confusing as to what the status of the "red dot showing" really means .......so, I have made my own list of red dot status / functions. The parts are small and not well seen without high quality photos, which unfortunately are degraded during the upload process...that problem and a 5 photo / post limit will require several sequential postings to illustrate all the information. So sorry. [ATTACH=CONFIG]671[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]670[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]672[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]673[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]674[/ATTACH]

Okay, this time I reduced the pixel density BEFORE uploading, resulting in 85 - 90 kb images, which should be better than the 15 kb images initially....Any other suggestions would be appreciated. [ATTACH=CONFIG]665[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]666[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]667[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]668[/ATTACH]

Let's try photo bucket and see if things improve. http://s1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee424/veryeasy4me/?action=view&current=Screenshot2011-06-13at10905PM.png http://s1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee424/veryeasy4me/?action=view&current=Screenshot2011-06-13at103533AM.png http://s1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee424/veryeasy4me/?action=view&current=Screenshot2011-06-13at105245AM.png http://s1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee424/veryeasy4me/?action=view&current=Screenshot2011-06-13at105919AM.png

Just a few illustrations for those that may want to install an over-size safety button on their Benelli's. A few correct tools makes the task easy to do. Also, for the Type A's, a neat tool you can make to prevent scratching your trigger group pin. The uploader reduces the pixel density significantly so some crispness of the photos are lost. [ATTACH=CONFIG]661[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]662[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]663[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]664[/ATTACH]

A few more related comments...about pins / punches and hammers. Generally, if you use a brass punch, use a brass hammer; steel punch, steel hammer etc.....otherwise the poor brass punch is beatin' up by a metal pin on one side and a steel hammer on the other end. 1+ for the screwdriver sets......you can never have too many ! and then you can always grind your own on a 6- 8 " wheel. The Brownells fixed set and Magna Tip are nice and I use the Wiha Torque screw driver to consistently tighten the screws without stripping them, particularly the aluminum receiver of the Benelli's, the light alloy frame grips of the SigSauers and the 1911's. I have found that 8.5 inch/lbs seems to work great. You can use a little less if you are applying blue level thread locker.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]656[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]657[/ATTACH] I am biased, but I don't think these Surefire setups are outdated !

These photos will illustrate more detail as to the path the pin must traverse. good luck. Hope these help. [ATTACH=CONFIG]651[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]652[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]653[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]654[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]655[/ATTACH]

I have found that installing carrier latch on the benelli's a few tricks are in order to prevent misery. 1. tape off the receiver to prevent punch slip marks! 2. use the proper size punch.....2 mm or 7/64" roll pin punch 3. use the toothpick trick to keep the roll pin moving thru the correct alignment of holes; an alignment punch or slave punch does not have the friction to stay in place. 4. the use of non-marring clamp will keep the cartridge latch securely in place while you are re-installing the retaining pin; 5. On re-installing if the pin does not move with each tap of the hammer......STOP! and check the alignment........it is easy to destroy the cartridge latch holes. There is a 5 photo limit per post......so see the next post for some more details to understand how the pin must be properly positioned.

Gear Sector makes specific picatinny rail mounts for the surfire flashlights like the x-300 etc. I have a lot of their equipment. They parts are all machined very nicely. http://www.gearsector.com/browse/category/mounts/flashlight-mounts/