benelliwerkes

The Viking Tactical 2-point system is a reasonable option. Up front is a Gear Sector quick disconnect with nice ball bearing mechanism; in the rear is a Safariland quick-disconnect system. [ATTACH=CONFIG]873[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]874[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]875[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]876[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]877[/ATTACH]

I have both the LaRue quick disconnect mount for the T1 and the Daniel Defense (which does allow co-witnessing of stock sights)....but, I like the lower LaRue and when combined with the Surefire Barry Dueck off-set open sights for target engagements different than your optics sight settings, they work really well. [ATTACH=CONFIG]837[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]838[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]839[/ATTACH]

Agree with Stranger........put the heat gun, not open flame, even the red loctite melts at 450 deg F. Be patient !

I bet it is Benelli Special Tool XYZ made in limited quantities and stored underground in a undisclosed vault in a 3rd world country. Unrelated, how come I can't get my photo's to upload in large format (not larger pixel).....like the screw driver photo above and the photo of your M4 ?

Just a few more photos of the fabricated tool that works perfectly for the task. [ATTACH=CONFIG]816[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]817[/ATTACH]

The recoil tube on the M2 is similar to the M4 and this is how I disassemble them. More photos to follow in next post. [ATTACH=CONFIG]811[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]812[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]813[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]814[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]815[/ATTACH]

The entire top rail and 2-shell holder are from SideArmor ; the rails between 3 o'clock & 9 o'clock is the SureFire M80 rail system. I don't think I need a laser on a SBS M4; my SBS M4 carbine yes. The T1 is indeed sweet with the quick disconnect lever mounting system.

One on each side would be over-the-top.....even for me. Worse, would be the heckling from the forum members at large. It would look awesome though. A red/ green filter lens on one of the lights for a scout light, then standard white LED on the other would be handy.

The SureFire Scout M620 with momentary / ON-OFF pressure switch is mounted. The X400 has an optional housing that can be attached to allow for using the same style switch. [ATTACH=CONFIG]804[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]805[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]806[/ATTACH]

What's not to like ? [ATTACH=CONFIG]785[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]786[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]787[/ATTACH]

My expert technicians and myself field test every device we deploy in our survival kits........the lasers cited above are made by the same company and thus quality. They were not designed to be mounted as a weapons light as they have a 5 degree exit beam which makes them highly visible as well as safe to look directly into their path, as the optical density is much less than a weapons / seminar designed exit beam collimation which typically in the range of 1 mm. My only point in mentioning them was to provide an accurate counter statement to someone suggesting the beam per se was not visible unless engaged on a distant target surface. That's all.

A small point of order: The notion that red and / or green lasers cannot be easily seen in the daytime is nonsense......we include them in the AlphaCase survival kits. These small handheld lasers powered by a single CR123 battery can easily be seen at distances of 1-5 miles in the daytime and 20 -30 miles at night. See attached.

That's the TriFecta ! right there.

I fabricated the brass pin holder punches, as none are made commercially. Grace makes a brass roll pin punch set, but as you may well know, a brass punch driving a steel roll pin usually doesn't work. I fabricated the forked tool. I usually make them from small screwdrivers. I find there is a commonality in gun assembly that often requires a similar type tool to get the same problem solved, i.e. simple insertion of a pin to hold a spring under compression. The trick of these situations is of course to get BOTH sides of the spring compressed while the pin is being inserted so you don't screw up the spring or get the pin located between a coil of the spring. The trick in fabricating the tool is to make it strong enough to compress the spring but thin enough to get into close tolerance spaces to do the task. I have attached a few photos of similar assemblies to the Benelli safety spring situation. Over the years I have compiled my own list of observations regarding tinkering with guns which some may find useful to remember. Gunsmith Tricks and Truism’s 1. Some pins will only move one way (either trigger headed, splined, flattened on one side) but appear the same on their ends. 2. Some pins that appear to be screws on the outside are just slotted for the purpose of: * proper external orientation of the pin internally for assembly e.g. Sig P226 locking block, left side * turning a release cam inside e.g. 1911 magazine catch button * act as a open-ended spring for retention e.g. Desert Eagle magazine catch button 3. A special tool is often needed and not disclosed in advance. 4. There is always a trick to make a daunting task seem easy. 5. Small parts and springs will tend to get lost – don’t forget the clear baggy trick. 6. You can never have a hard enough pin punch. 7. Penetrating oil (Kroil) is your friend. 8. Proper size gunsmith (hollow ground style) screwdriver or screw jack is a must. 9. Some parts look like they could go together in any order without making a difference….wrong. 10. Some parts can be installed completely backwards and still have the parts fit….but not work properly. 11. Never take apart a gun for the first time without a digital camera. 12. Removing pins, screws, threaded parts and wood pieces without ruining them, is 90 % of the game. 13. Some parts were never designed to be separated ….sometimes you just don’t know which ones. 14. You can never protect blued and varnished surfaces enough….tape protect non-work areas. 15. The manual you need in order to save yourself from misery is never available. 16. The screw that breaks off in the hole was the last one to be removed……and hardened. 17. If the parts don’t feel like they are not working together properly, they are not. 18. The wrong tool you thought would work usually scratches or buggers up the part. 19. An asymmetric spring without labeled ends can be a mystery. 20. The tell tale signs that your gun has been disassembled never occur on the inside. 21. The external appearance of a slotted screw gives no hint as to whether its right / left hand threaded. 22. Strike like with like; brass punch use brass hammer, steel punch use steel hammer. [ATTACH=CONFIG]730[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]731[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]732[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]733[/ATTACH]

Just get the 18" magazine tube and barrel as accessories to the 14" and then you will have nothing to lust for.

SideArmor has a first rate rail / cartridge holder as well. I use the Mod2 rail system.

The photo you started the post with is not a 14" M4. The SBS M4 has the barrel ring at the end of the magazine tube. See attached.[ATTACH=CONFIG]712[/ATTACH]

The use of the Daniel Defense open base mount allows a fair degree of co-witnessing of the sights. The mount though is too low for the optics though, forcing my head down to look thru the device. To solve those combined problems I use the LaRue quick disconnect mount (which has no see-thru base) in combination with the SureFire off-set sights, so they are not co-witnessed, but the arc of rotation is in the same radius off the long axis of the receiver, so there is no adjustment of sight alignment necessary; just a quick change of sight picture. It's a clever system you may want to consider. [ATTACH=CONFIG]707[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]708[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]709[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]710[/ATTACH]

No magazine extensions are included with the 14" M4.

Hammer Disassembly cont'd. Remember to check for proper function after working on the hammer group assembly. [ATTACH=CONFIG]706[/ATTACH]

Hammer Disassembly cont'd. [ATTACH=CONFIG]701[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]702[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]703[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]704[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]705[/ATTACH]

Submitted to satisfy Stranger Danger's curiosity. Same deal as before.....will require several posts. It's a simple process with simple tools. Use safety glasses for spring loaded parts! Take your time ; don't scratch your artwork. The annotated photos are self-explanatory. [ATTACH=CONFIG]696[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]697[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]698[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]699[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]700[/ATTACH]

Benelli Inertia System illustrations continued. [ATTACH=CONFIG]691[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]692[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]693[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]694[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]695[/ATTACH]

The operation of the inertia bolt system, like the M1 & M2, is ingenious in its simplicity. Here's some information and illustrations of just how it works and explains why malfunctions of the cycling action may occur when too many accessories are attached to the gun or the gun is not properly held. Here we go. The accompanying text to the my diagram, in case it is not clear in the photo. 1. Ready to fire position. Bolt head is in full battery; it is important to understand that the mass of the bolt is NOT rigidly locked to barrel-receiver, the bolt-head is! 2. Upon firing, the firearm recoils backwards into the shooter's body. The inertial mass, i.e. bolt, remains stationary. The bolt head remains instantaneously locked to barrel. The rearward force of the barrel-receiver compresses the spring into the still stationary inertia mass (bolt). Because the bolt is stationary but the bolt head lugs / barrel is moving rearward, the bolt head rotates by its cam surface within the stationary bolt and thus unlocks itself from the barrel lugs; the bolt head remains fully compressed against the front of the bolt. 3. The compressed inertia spring contains all the necessary energy to cycle the action; it now expands transferring its energy to the bolt moving it rearward (as now both bolt and gun are moving rearward). The action link spring is just beginning to be compressed, retarding the rearward bolt movement to allow time for the shot charge to exit the muzzle before the breech is fully open. The energy contained in the inertia spring also has to extract / eject the cartridge and cock the hammer spring. 4.The bolt is arrested in its fully rearward position and begins to move forward (with the rest of the gun) by the force of the expanding action recoil spring, pushing the next cartridge on the carrier into battery and again and locking the bolt head by rotation into the barrel lugs. 5. The shooter recovers from the shot, moving the firearm forward into position for the next shot. Caveats regarding this inertia mechanism: 1. The weapon MUST be free to sufficiently recoil about the bolt for this mechanism to work i.e. not secured in a rest or butt stock held against rigid ground. 2. Accessories that add too much mass to the gun can cause action cycling malfunctions. [ATTACH=CONFIG]687[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]688[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]689[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]690[/ATTACH]

Some more illustrations of hammer position versus cartridge drop position. Observe the "red dot" position as well. [ATTACH=CONFIG]682[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]683[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]684[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]685[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]686[/ATTACH]