benelliwerkes

There needs to be some clarification on this "stand behind your gun" notion. First, the OP is inquiring about the operation of the M4, a gas-direct piston cycling system for operating the bolt mechanism. If the the ammunition being used generates sufficient pressure into the piston system, then how the gun is held is irrelevant as to whether the bolt cycling mechanism will work properly.....that's the beauty of a gas system; point the weapon around a corner, no shoulder mount, and fire away ! If the platform under discussion is for example a Benelli M1 / M2 inertia bolt mechanism (i.e. non-gas system) and assume a cartridge sufficient to induce the required velocity as outlined in their respective manuals, then laws of physics actually require some, albeit small amount of rearward movement of the gun in recoil process for theses guns to cycle properly.....that is, if the butt stock is held against a solid wall or the ground, or too many accessories are added to the weight of the gun, no rearward movement of the gun relative to the bolt can occur (that's why it's called an "inertia bolt") which is why such a mechanism can demonstrate cycling "failures" when the gun is held in a shooting rest, or as above, against any other non-moveable object.In this instance, good shooting posture is commendable, but actually too rigid a hold may in itself cause a cycling problem. In a similar fashion to the Benelli inertia bolt systems, direct blow-back semi-auto pistols require a fairly rigid hold to allow the slide to recoil about the "fixed" frame; when the operator "limp wrists", often times a cycling malfunction will occur and the cause is incorrectly attributed to the ammunition and not the incorrect operator hold of the gun. Whereas firing a Desert Eagle or a HK M7P13 (both gas systems), limp-wristing poor technique is irrelevant to the proper cycling of the pistol. There's a reason why the military converted to the gas operated M4 system, this is just one important distinction, and it is not related to standing behind the gun. This is from the M1 / M2 manuals and there is no reason to have similar information in the M4 manual.

The spade style works nicely when you have attended to details of fitting. My preferred tool for the job is this one I fabricated; it fits the square slots and the circular base fits flush / square on the retaining nut to absolutely prevent any slippage that might mar the screw slots.

That tip will work in a pinch, but the first time removing the screw, it is very tight, so a heat gun and a well-fitted screwdriver tip is ideal. The magna-tip edge is beveled backwards for the beveled slots in the screw. A square driver allows complete contact with the screw slot engagement. Here's another plan to consider....

I use the Mesa sidesaddles on some of my guns.....I use the SideArmor sidesaddle's on the Benelli's; the SideArmor has a ball bearing detent to impose tension on the cartridge for retention, whereas the Mesa has a rubber insert to impose friction for cartridge retainer. Both are billet aluminum construction. The SideArmor is the benchmark in my opinion for what it's worth. Many times, the "issues" with Mesa sidesaddles, and others that use a receiver cross bolt / ejector screw substitution(s) for a trigger group retaining pins, is that the end-user tightens the screws too tight!! which interferes (i.e. compresses the sides of the receiver) with the smooth mechanical action slide bars on pump guns / and the movement of the bolt group on semi-autos; properly installed / tensioned, they should work fine. Here's some Mesa applications on a Rem 870 SBS & Mossberg 590A1 SBS:

I use a variety of snap ring pliers....the heavy duty ones include NAPA tool #3151 internal / external snap ring; Snap-On makes a good one as well....good tools are not cheap.....but neither is / are screwed up Benelli parts ! I use the heavy duty ones with slightly modified tips, to get them closely appose each other, for tasks such as the snap ring on the hammer pivot axle.

It is an idiotic method on a number of different levels; most importantly, it jeopardizes your fingers from being skewered by the extractor as the bolt slams forward....after the cartridge is in the portal, simply applying pressure on the bolt latch with the palmar surface of your finger(s) completes the task quite easily in a conventional fashion....what numbnuts prefers to have a "foot race" between the bolt moving forward and you removing your fingers from path of harm's way ?

For heavier applications like scope mounting etc, I use the Weaver torque screwdriver or the digital 1/4" drive Snap-On.

These are the adapters I have for the Wiha, which is the 7.5-20 in/lb; the specifications are +/- 6 % accuracy. This is what I use for light applications e.g.grip screws for aluminum alloy Sig frames, custom 1911 grip screws etc......it seems everyone is always stripping their frame threads ! For heavier applications like scope mounting etc, I use the Weaver torque screwdriver or the digital 1/4" drive Snap-On. model.

I would only add that if there is a disadvantage to the Magna-tip system, it is that there is always a few hundredths of "wiggle" between the inserted tip and the handle being used; when there is no room for wiggle room error, I like the fixed blade system or fabricate a hollow ground screwdriver to fit as needed.

The Wiha vario-torque is a good choice for installing gun grip screws and other gentle applications such as the Benelli rail; with multiple tips available, it is compatible with the Magna-Tip system. Installing the rail screws: 1. Remember the receiver is aluminum; it is easy to strip the threads with a steel screw, so make sure they are not cross-threaded; be gentle. 2. Use a dab of Blue Loctite on the screws, you only have ~ 2.5 mm of thread engagement available in the receiver. 3. Torque the screws to 8.5 INCH-pounds. 4. Use a proper size screw driver tip to avoid marring the screw slots.

One more reason Californians will never get forward grips....time to call the moving van ! California sheriff's deputies accused of illegally selling weapons | Fox News

If he sells them quickly, he can pay forward the honeymoon costs !

If you hate taxes and like forward grips.......destination Florida ! NOT purchased from a California sheriff deputy.

28 round Shotgun - XRAIL Systems - YouTube

Yes. NO.

Yes, it is......just Monday morning humor.

And for the bigger squirrels this setup might work well.

The pack is also secured to the sling via MOLLE loops, so when the sling is deployed everything remains together; the sling works well with the gun assembled as well.

Only 2 photos per post !!!!!! used to be five were allowed.

Henry U.S. Survival All the goodies can fit in the small pack; all the rest in the butt stock. The Walther P22 in the pack shares the same ammo. Thanks Tucker......a lot of mouse clicking though.

Tucker.......how are posting photos....my attachment management is all screwed up !

The U.S. Henry Survival......only 16" long stowed, quickly assembled, I mount a red dot scope with a 3/8" dovetail-to-picatinny rail conversion (has a standard peep sight, fabricated a quick disconnect sling attachment, it floats, uses 8 round .22LR magazines, is very accurate and lightweight. The Remington Nylon 66 is also one my favorites.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1500[/ATTACH]Single or Dual Point - depending on anticipated needs. Dual Points: QD's up front on Gear Sector Rail adapter; rear QD with 550 Paracord to native aperture in the stock. Single Point: Modified Mesa Tactical QD swivel [ATTACH=CONFIG]1496[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1497[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1498[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1499[/ATTACH]

You be correct !........which is why it weighs twice as much as the stock handle; also a "spinner" unlike the factory and the other aftermarket choices. From the GG&G site: The M4 Charging Handle is specifically manufactured for the Benelli M4 shotgun. These tactical accessories are made from 4140 ordnance steel, heat-treated to Rockwell 45 C hardness and feature a matte black, mil-spec manganese phosphate finish

You can apply Permatex Anti-Seize lubricant (either the standard silver or the copper based) to the threads, snug the cap down and forget worrying about it; sold in almost all auto stores, comes in a small tube and a little will last years. The copper based type is what Glock applies to their slide contact points (not fool-proof, but also one way to consider whether a Glock that is being represented as new, really is new).