AVATactical.com

Hello All - I wanted to thank the community here for a great start off with the AVA Mount so I am doing a give away. Post up in this thread and on March 1, a random post # will be picked using random.org to select a winner. The winner will receive a AVA Mount with a light ring of their choice! ANYONE THAT CAN POST IS ELIGIBLE. EVEN IF YOU OWN ONE ALREADY. ONE POST PER PERSON. Full disclosure this is heckler&kochp2000's idea, I asked him if it was okay if I did a give away as well. Thanks Again and Good Luck! More information here: http://forums.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/32451-New-Product-Announcement-Benelli-M4-Mount-from-AVATactical-com-Discount-Available Or: www.avatactical.com

Trust. Yes. No way my local CLEO would sign.

You can avoid the engraving only if you buy a factory entry. In that way, Benelli made it and it already has the engravings required.

I haven't 'broken the seal' on my SBS, but my experience with my full length is that it does not move without thread lock. With the detent system on the cap, as SD says, I don't think it would move. If so, the cap would have been found to have loosened and fallen off during use as well. I'd just hand check it during assembly / disassembly. You can put witness marks on it with a pencil.

I had heard of trained dolphins used for military operations, but with the proliferation of frog lube, they should consider recruiting ants to induce weapon malfunctions.

I had heard reports of mold growing on it, but this is a new one.

My guess would be a defense scenario, HD predominantly. In such times you are not armed ready to take offensive action, you simply go to grab your go to HD firearm and now you have your primary firearm and a backup all at once. If you were taking a offensive action, you'd have the sidearm on your side ready to go, that's why i'd guess it's not for that.

Deets on the SBR. I am contemplating my 2014 build, and a SBR is what I am thinking. Prob 300 blk.

I ordered one of these and installed it. Ambidextrous which is a plus over the IWC. One thing t note is that it is NOT rotation limited and I think the IWC might be as most of their products are. Personally, I like the lack of rotational lock in this particular use since it moves freely as I transition from slung to shouldered, etc. I haven't ran it yet, just slung the weapon, etc. So this is very preliminary. I appreciate the information.

They are not out yet, to my knowledge, but IWC is coming out with something similar for the HK Style Loops: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_37/411747_SCAR_QD_Rotation_Limited_Sling_MOUNT_N_SLOT_by_Impact_Weapons_Components_.html How involved was the mod to the c-stock? Is that plate slightly larger/different profile that the rear of the receiver?

Working with another client on this as well. Hope to have some results to share before to long. Will test a number of methods. Thanks All

I added the Ambi Elzetta QD mount to my M4 stock today. I do like the way the sling point works there. The Elzetta is not rotation limited, but I am not sure I want it to be there. The transition from hanging free to shouldering seems to enjoy the free rotation of the sling in the QD.

There has been at least two folks with P2X, P3X, 6PX style lights who have had the lights walk under live fire, despite the clamp being very tight. The light cannot be removed by hand or even wiggled. These new style surefire lights have a slick surface, concave gripping features which reduce the surface area, no positive protrusions, etc. Traditional Surefire lights have a rolled cross-hatch pattern which bites into the mount very well. Under the initial testing, I had witnessed the cross hatching bedding itself into a raw prototype mount. I put a few witness marks on the light and mount and put it through live fire testing without it moving. With the P2X, 6PX, there are several options folks have come up with and are testing. The Snap Ring being one of them, as the lights, I am told, tend to walk forward. With my schedule this time of year, I am going to have a very difficult time being able to do live fire testing but I hope to test a few methods as well. Example light surface:

Stormbringer - That's awesome. I am not sure if you spoke with another person using the AVA, but they were also trying snap rings, o-rings and another method I am doing some cad work on. Joel @ AVA

I knew I went in the wrong direction.

Ha! I unconditionally surrender.

I almost have to believe this is a tongue in cheek product, simply made as joke and cannot really be serious...

These can be effective when thrown tomahawk style. Sure it requires training, but once you get it down, it's the end all of the well prepared oper8tr. They also work well when you have a pistol mounted to the bottom rail on your rifle, you can in turn mount this bayonet to your pistol. Which, if nothing else, is VERY intimidating and might end the fight before it begins. Not to be discounted if you want to take your target alive.

Been looking at a number of such systems lately. Looked at OCATS.com today as well because it also does live fire as well, which is a neat feature. Disadvantage being is that it's not as likely to be setup and ready at home for quick training sessions. Depending on what you are doing - fundamental trigger controls, or specific weapon training, you may also need a trainer pistol so that you are not constantly working the action to reset your hammer, etc. That's a separate cost if you want/need the trainer pistol.

Hi Orange - The mount and light will slide right off along the barrel. No tools needed for disassembly. Joel @ AVA

You could carefully trim the wrap with a razor to reduce or prevent visibility. It need only be where the clamp contacts the light.

Peshawar - If you have a in/lbs torque, you can take it up to 60 in/lbs on the light clamp only, If anything goes wrong I will replace. Do not do this on the main body screws. But I don't think that will solve it either. If you try a tape, please report your results. When you torque it down, I presume it won't move by hand, etc? That's what has been reported, however under recoil it walks.

This is from BW on the X series. I don't know why the X-300 Ultra moves once on the rail, I don't have one to test fit at this time. Anyone without that could advise would be appreciated.

Peshawar - Help me understand the left / right idea better. Are you asking for a QD on both sides? The mount can be mounted with the QD on either side now, but the railed side is always without a QD as it is now. Ideally, I'd like to make the railed side with keymod top and bottom so you can add rail or QD. It's not wide enough to accommodate two keymod slots though as I am bound by the geometry of the barrel hanger. There are some ways to design around this but if these come about it will a enhancement in the future. Peshawar / Stormbringer - For the issue when we have slick lights I have a few ideas I need to try. If either of you are interesting in testing, I can supply materials, mounts, etc. Please email me. 1) Surface Interference - Electric tape, Duct Tape, just on the backside of the mount where you cannot see it may be enough. The Clamping Force is there, it's just the slick surfaces that are sliding past each other. Section of innertube or a O ring in either of the groves of the tailcap in this series of lights may also work. 2) I can manually hatch a mount / clamp to test with. If you are willing to test, email me and we can discuss. Joel @ AVA EDIT: One thing to test is an O-Ring in one of these grooves then secured under the the clamp. Or you can either wrap the entire tail-cap in shrink wrap or innertube. For aesthetic reasons you may try to just put innertube on the backside and that may be more than enough.

I will take a closer look at the data, but I know BenelliWerkes test fitted a few of the X series lights and some did not have clearance. Others did. Let me see what we can come up with on that. A riser could work, and I'd be glad to accommodate a test fit if you are unsure as I don't know how it would look either once fully mounted. For the light clamp, you don't have to install it but it won't look complete without it. I considered making a cover that would smooth out the look and allow one to use it without a round light clamped in, but those parts are not cheap to have made and this would be the first request for it - not unanticipated though. I can take some pictures of the mount without the cover, give me a bit to do so. The mount is ambidextrous in that you can put the rail on either side, but your QD and rail are always on opposite sides. Lastly, I have a set of FFT guards I "milled" a pocket into and have a flush switch installed in. A drill press and a milling vice is all I used.