AVATactical.com

He sure is crafty!

IT"S ALIVE!!!!! An American Flag receiver too. There's some one out there that will see that and will get their panties in a bunch. I had no idea these animals were dimensioned so alike. I'd never even held an M2, not sure why it shocks me but it does. they just slide right together. Saves CAD time.

Dang heck of a day indeed. Send pictures of the insides of light clamp portion of the AVA mount and the light body damage. One thing I know I will do on next run of clamps is reduce the lightening cuts on the clamp to increase surface contact. How many rounds do you think you've put through it with the AVA mount(s) you have used?

Very strange! Made me turn my head like a dog when I first saw it. Great that it works. And excellent execution. Needs a light mount!

Oh, and since this is a light weight build for you, another goal we share in these efforts - the mount comes in at 25 grams.

Anytime SD. Things to consider - The set screw is what fastens it to the rail. You can see the thread lock debris from me removing and remounting it for these pictures. It is a nylon tipped set screw. Not my favorite fastening method, but it has worked well, I use this mount on two firearms with no issue. It pulls the mount against the rail so it's not just the set screw's contact point keeping it in place, although if that fails the entire rig comes loose and can move on your rail. Sharp Edges - It has some edges that I wish were given a radii. Specifically where the screws holes are to clamp the light. They are not sharp, but if that were to swing and hit flesh it is a hard corner. Of course you could hit them on a bench sander and then blacken it. It's low profile is setup for a quad rail. It could be adjusted for keymod geometry in BCM/NSR, but no such animal yet. But even so it does not fully accommodate the magpul sight shown (not that it was designed to). Pictures of a ground off deployment tab included in new album below. Lastly, if you must have your sight directly at the end of your rail, this will likely force you to have the mount span the tailcap. You can put the mount out if front of your sight to avoid this, but it may not matter since you can feed new batteries in through the front on your e series setup. Full Album: http://imgur.com/a/iUBto Ground off Sight Deployment Tab: Edges:

Ha, just noticed the camera picked up the red dot from the t1 on a few of those since I leave it on full time on this firearm.

Okay I mocked up an E Series on the NSR rail , which is similar but has slightly different geometry than the BCM, using the Low-Pro mount. Yes, the front magpul site is backwards. This is because I use this mount with another smaller light that I had to grind off the release tab on one side of the mount which normally faces the left. Because SD wants to mount his light on the right I reversed it so the tab does not touch the light. I wanted the site on there to show if you have a small enough site you can tuck it in there. The new Ti Spikes sites might be even better, or may not fit at all. I can't say. A bonus with this is if you choose, and it works out for you, you can actually activate the light with your thumb directly still - if you hold your thumb over the top of the guard it works surprisingly well from the quick test I did. Of course you can use the tape switch just like you have it too. Full Album here: http://imgur.com/a/o6nUK A few shots:

Clever mother. See I have smashed roll pins ends in a vise to 'taper' them. I have even sanded them on my bench sander. Didn't think of chucking them to keep the taper concentric and perfect. And making the slave pins is dead simple. That's what kills it. How SIMPLE these little tid bits are, but yet I wouldn't have thought of it myself. Good stuff.

Since you are looking for options to pull in tighter... Might try the low-pro mounts... http://store.greygrouptraining.com/LOWPRO-FLASHLIGHT-MOUNT.html I can take some pics of what this mount looks like with a E series mounted to the top rail on the NSR. Give you an idea of what you'd be getting into. It would require you to switch your body out. They also offer a scout mount, but I can't say it would reduce your profile over what you have.

BenelliWerkes is a wizard. The techniques he comes up with always leave me with the feeling of 'why didn't I think of that'...

Reflecting the heat by putting under the handguard might work as well.

I love the tape switch setup here, tucked in. That's a huge differential on the BE weight.

I love the additional 45 degree positions you can mount to, like the QD slings you have there. Improvement over the NSR, which I am a big fan of. Can't wait for the 10" KMR to show up on my doorstep.

I had a Urban ERT but sold it with a firearm as a complete kit awhile back. I really like having QDs, preferably flush whenever possible, on my firearms. For that reason I use a Vicker's Padded and a recently got the Magpul MS3 I think, QD on each end.... I haven't ran with the magpul yet but it seems like a great unit as well. The one I have is not padded.

Cool setup BW. Anyone see these QD sling attachments yet? Not sure what I would use them for, but interesting if you need a fixed non-movable loop for some setup.

Benelli Werkes is the king of gear.

I am waiting on the KMR 10" to be available as a standalone part. I am also waiting for the Spikes Ti BCG. Should be interesting. V7 QD Endplate, Castle Nut, Dustcover I will be experimenting with a few things which I may or may not like and change out: Accu-Group Poly Lower Parts Group Tac Com Delrin Light Weight Buffer (Will require an adjustable gas block). CAR Stock (Backup will be the Battlelink Stock if I don't like the CAR) I am also going SBR on this build. Probably a ~10" barrel turned down pencil weight with a Simple Threaded Device linear compensator. Very interested to see when Spikes gets these BCGs out. Want to know the secret sauce he has going into these.

I have one SBR that is not possible as a factory, as this company (FN) does not offer SBRs in this platform to civi. And since all LE/Military builds are Select Fire, you can never get a factory SBR. That one I have engraved. Here's a trick though. You can name your trust appropriately. For example you can name your trust LEO, just as an example. If your trust paperwork is setup properly in that the official and complete name is LEO, you do not have to have LEO TRUST engraved on your firearm. Just LEO and the City State. Lessens the issue, for me at least.

Part 2. Fury Clearance. As most know, this mount was built for low profile and was built for 6/E series lights. Fury came out during development and has a larger bezel. If offers some nice lumen #s which I think attracts folks. The issue is the bezel does not have appropriate clearance. Some folks mount them, and they do 'Fit', but they can / do touch the barrel. Here are my results from testing, after 600+ rounds: I noticed when mounting these you can make the light bezel vary in distance to the barrel depending on how you torque the clamp. Front first, back first, etc. I tried to clamp it with it in the most neutral position, naturally resting at the clearance it would have without torquing it oddly or forcing it away from the barrel. The results are clear in that the bezel will touch the barrel under recoil. It is a small contact area and for some heavy shooters this won't matter to them, but for some this rubbing will be an issue. I can't say how to prevent it, I only think you could use a buffer prevent metal on metal. I can prevent this with a new clamp which also spaces the light out further, or possibly a sling ring dimensioned to forced the bezel a bit further from the barrel. But volume will dictate if this is possible to make these for this purpose. At the same time, if a clamp, I can have them cross hatched before being finished to prevent the light from walking. but this cross hatching will bite into your Fury as well. Speak up about what you want from this product.

Gentlemen - After a long hiatus from meaningful shooting (Very busy time of year for my day job), I was able to finally get out this weekend to do some significant round count. Background is testing with the new Surefire slick sided lights, namely the Fury series. Previously I did some quick testing with snap rings, shrink wrap tube and the results seems positive but I wanted to get a lot of rounds down range using something even more common that I suspected would work and be a bit more scientific about it before I reported back. On this same issue I worked with a client who is on this board, I won't name them publically unless they wish to talk about it as well, on a replacement sling ring which is shaped to prevent movement on the Fury lights as well. Before having any made, I wanted to test these other methods and gauge interest. In any event, here are my results... I put over 400 rounds of buck shot, and another 200 or so of Walmart bulk-pack down the M4 today with a P2X Fury simply wrapped in plain old duct tape with witness marks on it to show any movement. Here's what it looked like when I got back to the house to take a picture of it: Even the buck was 100 pack from Gander Mountain, so it's not the heaviest of 3 in mags, but I can't imagine if this many rounds did not move the Fury anything would or could. I can't see any movement in the witness marks. If there is any at all it's so negligible, it can't matter. So that's my results. I wouldn't expect anybody to use duct tape like this, but if you put it on your light or mount and trim it you wouldn't be able to see it. Or you can use black shrink wrap, anything that interferes with the slick on slick surfaces. This is the cost of when we combine slick aluminium lights (this being the first ones I have ever dealt with - I am sure this fury series will slide around in most other mounts as well because they are slick as well) - in slick surfaced mounts. Most mounts are designed to grip the cross hatching on lights absent on the Fury.

UPSguy. Nitecore looks nice. Glad you like the mount!

I believe that is an E1B / E1 Backup. No mods to it. That is not the light I use, however, it was used for fitment testing, etc. A L4 Lumamax with a KE2-A head is tad bit longer but not longer than the entry barrel and is very bright. Same light body/shape other than it accommodates and extra 123 style cell.

Not with a standard QD. There are male side QDs that would work, they are offset. I will look for them a bit later today. Example of an "Angular Sling Attachment" http://www.gggaz.com/heavy-duty-enhanced-quick-detach-sling-swivels.html

The light clamp side was sized for 6 Series lights with bezels of 1.25". In order keep things low profile, that was the max accommodated bezel. You can get up to 1600 lumens in that bezel size. Of course there are bezels that exceed 6" in diameter. There had to be a line somewhere, and for the initial design that is where I drew it. This is the same reason I did not do a rail on each size. Rails take up room, and then the interface to that rail takes up room and pushes the flashlight ever further from the body of the shotgun. One of my design principles in making this was "Low-Profile". I am not sure which Scout light would have an issue though, I am not aware of this. Do you have a specific Scout model in mind? In the future, if there is enough interest, I may offer a light clamp device that works with the existing mount that provides additional space to accommodate Fury size bezels. Short-term if I can get 100 orders for such mounts, it will make sense for me to make them. Short of that, I would be on the loosing side of the financial situation. If, in due time, if I am in a place where I make a second run, I would make such a clamp as well. I could also consider other design elements that have come up along the way such as flexible rails, etc.