AVATactical.com

The go to guy for M4s. Knows how to set them up.

This is what Trijicon has on the battery life for RMR 06:[TABLE=width: 400] [TR] [TD]Over 4 years of continuous use (when used at 70ºF (21ºC)) at setting 4 of 8. RMR 01: Up to 2 years of typical use*, up to 5 years in dark storage. I think either one works for my purposes in that regard. I am in. *SOON*. Awaits bundle. [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

What is the battery life of the RM06 if you leave it on all the time? (compared to Rm01)

Using this like a T1 (leaving on 100% of the time) is very intriguing. Looking forward to results.

Nice piece of kit!

Yup, we're out of stock. Sorry folks. I am looking for unused ones as well if anyone is willing to part with them. I literally have one complete 1" Mount left. Then it's all .8".

Or 3) Build a dual 18650 light which will be long enough to address, and you can blow away the fury output. Places like overready.com and others have some of the super emitters and light body components necessary.

#7 has same cons as others - 1) you need such a mount, 2) how to activate. I would either: 1) Go with a different light, less bright/more focused beam. or 2) Make a shroud, really thin, that instead attaches to the sight itself providing enough blockage to prevent the light from hitting the sight. Test by making something out of a aluminum can. It can attach to the sight post nut. Then, if I decided to keep such a solution, I'd put much more into making a final product. Anyone else have this with their fury lights? I know many folks have them - including myself. I hadn't noticed it.

Possible Solutions requiring varying levels of engineering to exercise. 1) Move the light forward enough so that it does not reflect off of the sight. CON: How to activate the light. 2) A longer light such as a 3 cell. 3) A machined shroud to replace the bezel / effectively elongating the light emitter preventing bounce back. 4) A less intense light, reducing such bounce back. CON: Not as bright. 5) A light that has a more directed beam, less splash. 6) A mount that holds this light way far off to the side. CON: Aesthetics. How to activate such a light. Just a brainstorm of ideas. Many of these are not really practical at the end of the day. I have had many Military and LEO clients say they don't like super bright lights indoors due to the bounce back from white walls, et al. I think the humid nights issue is very similar. Bright lights are great, but they can be too bright in certain circumstances. That being said, I can't say I had not noticed this myself with a fury and the front sight, and can't help but think it might be amplified with the RMR. Have you tried this is in the same lighting without the RMR? Not that removing it permanently is a solution, that is a great sight and mount - just curious if the optics/coating play a part in visibility with the blindingly bright light.

There are several such changes planned to make improvements, however, I don't yet have a solid timeline.

Hi Les - Possibly. What are you looking to fix by de-skelotonizing?

I did see that Arisaka Scout Body when it was announced. And I do like it, and immediately thought about how it might be integrated now. We will see.. stay tuned.

Looking good.

Nice. Personal build?

What SD said. Its an excellent setup.

I would start over, only to ensure you get the proper spacing top/bottom, etc. I've done it both ways, and either will ultimately work. Appreciate the comments.

It is cheaper to buy both full lights, and sell off the unused parts. Surefire charges a mint for their accessory parts - heads, switches, etc. And used parts, especially in new condition, fetch premiums on ebay, etc. Most folks I've talked to go with single mode as to avoid activating the wrong mode in a stress situation. This dual mode light is awesome if you want dual mode - I may start recommending it as a starting platform - all you need to do is add your tailcap. Does the chance of being on the wrong mode not bother anyone? Joel @ AVA

H&K - E2D Defender Ultra is a dual mode light. I suspect the KE2D-A head is simply the dual mode version of the KE2-A head. If you want a dual mode light that is a great start, you will need to swap out the tail cap for a Z61 so the geometry is compatible. The light head should be around 1.25 if I recall. Joel @ AVA

Isn't that pathetically sad.

Might require both sides depressed? Not sure myself.

Great News! Glad you like it. Joel @ AVA

Magpul: Interesting new mechanic here, releases from slides on the side - not a button in the center. http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG543/slings Forged Aluminium - Light Weight: http://algdefense.com/forged-sling-swivel-fss.html What's the hive say? One of these or the standard fare?

I've considered stocking Surefire lights, QD Sling loops... to go with the mount... I haven't gotten there yet.... but do you think I should also offer 3 Wolves / Moon shirts if I decide to accessorize the offerings? Your opinion is highly valued, as always.

Bolt, modified FCG? Is the bolt modified?

Easy. A single Proto alone, I think would exceed that. That's a lot of machining.