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Isn't that what the H20 is, for the most part, now? Don't get me wrong, I was entertained by Benelli skirting 922 and brining a non-neutered shotty to us, and NP3 has advantages when done correctly, but I don't see much value at all in this latest iteration. Beyond, of course, the amazing value of owning a M4. Which everyone should.

Good catch.

I think I've heard different colors of mentioned over the years by those that broke their mag tubes free. I recall several of mine having a green residue from the thread lock.

For the Mag tube or other parts? The mag tubes that I have removed haven't been fun, but heat gun solves it. I've read about some people attacking it with a heat gun and still being unable to do it, probably because they don't have it in a vice, etc.

Hoping to help in that regard, but as mentioned there are way to many lights to document all. I am taking notes and hope to get pictures of the most of the popular choices posted here. Will take awhile! Awesome pictures and feedback everyone. Thanks to all contributing. Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving, I know I tried to sleep mine off a bit.

Connectivity (terrestrial based high speed internet is a must) is one of the factors that keeps me from living permanently on the land my family has. I need it for my day job. You're fortunate to have that type of connection there and yet still be remote. Or is it satellite based high speed? (that's good stuff too, I just can deal with the latency due to some of the specialized work I am involved in).

The land I have is wooded like Unobtainium's picture. I wish I had open land like SD's as well. The wooded land is great for wildlife. Large open land like in SD's pic is great for long range shooting, other ranges, etc. Need both.

Thank You Again, BenelliWerkes. Great pictures, feedback and information. I am presuming we are talking about removing the mount while leaving a laser aiming device in place and then remounting the entire mount? I haven't tested this, yet! However a few observations - The unimax series would have a laser on axis with the barrel, just ~11mm off to the one side. Given the close proximity there is very little difference between poa / poi, and I would set the zero to the outer limits. Due to how these two lines (poa/poi) converge from your firearm to your zero with very little gap and single axis adjustment (if at all), I would expect the dynamic of these changing from removing the mount to be minimal but it is yet untested. I believe the geometry involved will self center the mount and return your zero. I don't know how effectively yet, but it should be more than sufficient given the other factors.

This is a prime example of BW coming through when everyone else is stumped. Not just a general idea of how to overcome the issue, actual pictures, detailed descriptions of the mechanical problems being solved including special tools, etc. Asset to the community. Bhunted - you considering that Noveske QD Sling Plate now that this thing can be disassembled? It's not ambi, but other than that, that seems like a great option if you like the sling placement it provides.

I would guess the GG&G current setup is stamped. You could make one stamped then folded with 1/2in holes, but I think the clean way to go there is machine the QDs into it. More expensive though. Sorry I missed, but I think there were some concerns about the strength of the plastic for flush mounting a QD? Or is it not possible? I mounted a flush QD in three firearms so far, no problem. PS90, Steyr Aug and an not to be named bullpup. No issues. I am a big fan of the flush clean look they afford. One could layer epoxy, fiberglass, carbon fiber before putting the QD in place to add strength. Or even a custom washer metal material epoxied in place. Not knowing how strong the plastics are on the M4 stock I can't say if it is needed.

If that plate could be made to work with C-stocks I would be 100% in. GG&G says no go with C-Stocks I believe. I am guessing because of the way the grip core screws on, etc.

Looked up LAPD today, and found several equipment lists with the M4 on it and several pictures with the Side-Armor full length rail setup. For a patrol vehicle quick deploy M4, slung M4, anything but large specialized optics or other railed equipment needs - I'd think light and nimble would be of benefit. Anyone have their armorer's email address?

Can you get a replacement 280J and drill out the other? Not fun I suppose. I'd love to see a solution available for all M4s for a rear QD, something universal. I am not sure how well it would turn out or be received. The only way I could think to do this was a replacement top rail or sight base which goes down the side of the receiver, much like a mesa/sidearmor side saddle, but places a QD in an agreeable position instead. I don't know how it would turn out aesthetically or how popular that would be.

Noveske has a flush cut QD as well. That and the IWC SD mentioned need to be installed from an inside surface. Each work well, each have pro's / con's. Internal clearance has dictated which one I use in the past. I used the Noveske on a PS90 I have. I used the IWC on several other guns. Both are GTG in my opinion. If your external surface is not flat, be weary of the noveske.

Wow! I am excited to learn this. What exact model light is that? P2X? P3X?

Hey Bhunted. Glad you got it! For the factory sling loop - SD mention it may not have to be removed, I had always assumed it did. By touch it feels a bit higher than the relevant constraining surface of the internal geometry of the cradle, see picture below. Not sure if there are different ODs on sling loops or if they are all the same. If it can be left on for all, that's great news. In either case, if one is motivated to use it, it can be surfaced in that spot to accommodate the light, worst case. Replacement factory loops aren't expensive. Let me know more details on your factory sling loop - is it possible your light is resting on it? Is it possible your OD is smaller? Tight Tolerances / Very little clearance - A subject I spent a lot of time on. I wanted a very high speed / low drag setup. Something yet completely unavailable to the market for M4s. You can do setups on ARs low pro all day. Benelli M4? Not a chance. This necessarily meant limiting your light options out of the gate. However, for those married to a specific light there are mounting options already on the market. For those that have been wanting lo-pro, I hope this does the job. That being said, I do have a 'ring' or 'clamp' designed that has a stub that wraps 350 some-odd degrees around a light and I can make one for any diameter body giving just about any specified amount of clearance for a bezel of X diameter. It would use the same mount, just a add on clamping device. I opted not to make it, this is a niche product serving a niche of a niche market. If the demand is there, eventually I could have a run cut. Field Stock - Is it hollow? How thick is the material where you'd want a QD? I have sunk Noveske and IWC flush mount QDs into a number of my firearms. PS90s, Steyr Augs, etc... I love flush QDs.

This is *THE* thread served to push the development of the AVA Tactical Benelli M4 Light Mount, but that's not why I am posting here! Sorry to push this up to the front again, however this thread comes up as the #1 result on google for one of the two key search terms I am after. Shameless promotion, don't want anyone to miss the solution. See this thread: http://forums.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/32451-New-Product-Announcement-Benelli-M4-Mount-from-AVATactical-com-Discount-Available www.AVATactical.com

It sure looks like it is.

I see no reason why not, it's a 1 inch body and tailcap. Forward clicky so the body does not need to freely rotate in the tailcap like the classic 6 series. Only issue is the 1.37" bezel diameter. It is not yet confirmed to clear the barrel. I have one on order and a few people inquired, I think one maybe testing soon.

Hey Calviroman - 1) You're going to love your SBS. 2) Confirmed payment. 3) Take a look, I run a SBS BM4 a well. I loaded up a 6 series to the SBS to demonstrate something. On a standard BM4 you're barrel is the geometry you are normally dealing with on dual cell lights. With the SBS, the Mag Tube retainer is the larger geometric feature. The 6 series clears it at 1.25 bezel diameter, but I doubt the 1.37 bezel of the P2X will. It looks like the P2X / P3X will clear the barrel in CAD on a 18" Barrel, but even that I can't be sure until tested. I know you will like your mount, but I just want to make you aware of the SBS dynamic. I will be glad to exchange for the other ring if you decide to go that route at a later time, etc. Take a look:

Really good information. Thank You. All threaded as 8-40 so a bit finer thread than standard threading. All fasteners are oxide blackened steel. I am not sure if that provides the proper ionization for the thread lock process or not. All input welcome.

P3X / P2X dimensions appear to work in CAD. I have a few that have ordered already going to try this the first thing when they get it. The bezel on the P2X/P3X has flats on it, and they may need to be indexed to barrel for proper clearance. I hope to have more definitive information soon.

Torque Spec is 20 inch pounds. Thread lock is a requirement. I did torque one out, but my inch pounds torque unit only goes up to 60 inch pounds and that was absolutely no issue at all. I am going to try a foot pounds wrench in the coming days and will report back where the threshold is. One other trick I mention in the instructions is to torque the two shorter screws down before you put your flashlight on. The reason I do this is because they are shorter screws and I like to have as much thread contact as possible. The other two screws are much longer and will always have more thread contact than the shorter ones.

Amazing pictures, instruction, etc. StrangerDanger has been very helpful throughout this providing invaluable feedback. Cannot overstate my gratitude. When I shipped Mr. Danger his production unit, the very first one in the mail - in fact I ran to the post office as soon as I got the railed part back from the Laser Etchers - I did not have the instructions ready yet so I sent them without. Instructions are up on the AVATactical.com website now in PDF format - Link here: https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxhdmF0YWN0aWNhbGNvbXxneDozYWUwY2IxOTdlNjI5YmRh