les_garten
-
Posts
475 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
13
Posts posted by les_garten
-
-
Man did I mess up!
I sold mine to SD for cost...
-
You can see from the pics the quality of SD's work. I have personally done business with him as well, and I will vouch, along with many others, for his responsiveness and very quick and conscientiously performed work. If you send him something, he will do good and quick and affordable work. A total unicorn in today's world of craftsmen, those 3 things aligning.
Definitely no flies on Stranger Danger.
-
If you decide to go the M600 intellibeam route, I can do the machine work free of charge - just cover the cost of shipping. This goes for the lamp head and the tailcap. If you wanted them painted, just pay whatever cost that comes out to be. It’s pretty cheap actually. A trip there and back in the mail is the bulk of the painting price, and most of the wait.
Machining the tailcap isnt necessary when using the IWC Benelli M4 Mount, but it helps keep you from jamming your thumb under recoil. The lamp head still must be machined for the IWC.
Machining these parts is probably a 15 minutes job for both pieces with setup.
It does suck spending money chasing these improvements. Even with the latest and greatest, I’m not 100% happy with the results. I hate the barrel shadowing and am actively trying to find a solution.
I can use the Elzetta on another gun, I have so little in in them, I don't want to sell them.
Thanx for the offer on the machine work. When I decide which SF, I'll circle back to you.
-
In fact, you know what? I PERSONALLY have an IWC mount in good shape that I'd sell you for a great deal if you're interested. It's super lightly used, as in, no problems with it, I just won't lie and say it's new.
May take you up on that
-
I get it. If you can make your plan work and if you're happy then, go for it.
If you choose to go new, you could cut your above estimated costs quite a bit by going with an IWC mount and a SF M600 or M300 light, and you would not have to modify, or buy anything else to make it work.
The scout light bodies attach directly to the IWC mount without any mods so you don't need a Thorntail body or a modified tailcap. However, if you must have an intellibeam head on your light then, I defer to StrangerDanger, and the cost does go up.
I'm not trying to tell you what to do, just giving you some info you might find helpful.
Thanx for that info, very useful and what I need to know if my Half Fast plan does not work.
-
No, I just know I've never regretted buying expensive ****, because even if I don't like it, I can get my money right back out of it more than some mangled hobbled together home-brew mess.
I think you are math challenged here.
Intellibeam M600 $250
IWC Body $80 if wanted
Machine work $$
Ceracoating $$
New AVA MOUNT $$
==============
equals a Bucket of Cash
or if my method doesn't work $20 for a Tailcap to put me back right where I am now.
I didn't buy cheap **** to begin with... N'est-ce pas?
I did invest in what I thought was a nice mount and light.
Now you are suggesting a new mount, a NEW FREAKING MOUNT! and an extremely expensive light.
Ohhh the horror...
-
Spend the money. Do it right. You will regret it much less than having to muck with it over and over.
Have you been lookin' in my wallet again...
-
I agree he’s better off upgrading. Right now you could probably sell your old mount off for 75 - 90 bucks. You’d be in another 70 or so for the IWC M600 body. Most then buy a Surefire Scout light of whatever flavor you like. Personally I’m using the M600 Intellibeam units at 600 lumens. The lamp head has to be machined to fit for either the Ava or the IWC mounts.
I’ll gladly machine any parts you need to make the light of your choice fit on my lathe. Ie: tailcaps and/or lamp heads. I know a few Cerakote places that can paint the parts afterwards if cosmetics are an issue.
It's possible I may have to go this route. Just trying to avoid another bucket of $$$ after the current bucket I already blew through and is unusable.
-
What if you used one of those rubberized paints or the do it yourself spray on bedliner’s in the automotive section of vatozone?
I’m not sure how well roughing it up with a file will work. I think the recoil will defeat the skateboard tape’s adhesive.
So here's my thinking.
I can buy a new tailcap on Ebay usually for around $15-20.
I rough up my tailcap with a file so that the adhesive on the tape has some real purchase instead of trying to hold onto Class III anodization. I would rough it up a 90 degree pattern from the expected force direction.
The other side of the tape is 80 grit.
I really think this should hold. If it doesn't, I'm out $20 to replace the tailcap.
I don't know if the tape will add so much diameter where I won't be able to clamp it down though.
-
Well guys, I have a lot of Elzettas and I am only sacrificing a Tailcap.
I basically have no use for the light if it's not mounted on the M4. I also bought it for a song.
The light is useless to me as a regular flashlight because I am "one of those light guys" and have a ton of lights. I don't pick up the baby Elzetta to do anything. It was purpose bought for this shotgun and I only have about $45 in it.
So I put some texture on it with a file and a bit of tape and no one will even see it. Hopefully it will just turn out to be an Elzetta that no longer takes flight.
-
The original Ava mount won’t work with the Scout body or the aftermarket units. Back when I was using them, I would use Surefire E2L Outdoorsman, then I’d stick a higher output Scout lamp on it.
I think my plan is to deface the tailcap on the Elzetta with a file to rough it up a bit. Then wrap with some skateboard tape and see if that holds. You think that might work?
-
Like I said about lugs, integral mounting, and shotgun recoil...
Honestly, if you want to use the AVA, I'd get a Scout/Scout body. The Bravo is an excellent and well-made light. You didn't choose bad kit, you just chose kit that may not play well together in certain applications.
The IWC M300 or M600 light bodies are a better choice then the Surefire Scout bodies.I'm confused about how to make these things work since I don't know much about Surefire. I have an original AVA mount. I thought you had to mill off a lot of these lights, the switches were twist on, etc? I don't know if the lugged bodies will work with the original AVA mount.
I'm thinking my Elzetta may work with a coating of skateboard tape as well.
-
Hi Folks,
I just shot my M4 with the AVA mount for the first time this week.
I have an Elzetta Bravo light which went acrobatic on me after about 5 shells.
I'm thinking about replacing with a Surefire 6P or a Malkoff MD2.
Will these stay in place and work correctly?
-
The Ava Tactical mod 1 mount was installed with a Surefire M600U 500 lumen output lamp on a IWC M600 body, and a Surefire Scout Light tailcap that I machined. The unit was then painted in burnt bronze Cerakote.
Hey SD,
What does the IWC body do for you? I have an Elzetta and am having issues with it. The Elzetta, as strong as it is, has a somewhat thin Tailcap. I think there may be some deformation under the AVA clamp that causes this light to not come on all the time unless I tweek on it a bit. It's also a bit short, so am looking at your surefire deployment here.
-
I'm still new to Benelli so keep that in mind. What was your justification for replacing the sights?
I have pretty poor eyesight and like the XS sights. The XS and the Fiberoptic sights are very usable in very dim light and are really viable in bright light. The XS sights I chose were the ones without the Tritium, so they are a Large White dot.
This is a Firearm, who needs justification to modify it!
-
Gotcha! Thanx Guys!
-
Good information.
Sounds like you done this before.
How close will the buckshot be to the slugs at 25 yards?
-
Deep PenetratorFederal's answer to Brenneke. I have found them to not be the most accurate, and a phone-call to Federal got their opinion from them that they are safe to shoot through MOD, but not advised as long-term use may cause damage. Also note that Federal benchmarks off of Remington, I believe, and Remington MOD is almost a Benelli CYL, in absolute measure.
Ahhhh, OK. These are hardcast? I was wondering about Hardcast slugs as a Brown Bear deterrent.
-
Thanx Gents, that's what I was thinking.
-
Yes, but id not use sabot or Federal DP slugs. Regular fosters and most brennekes are fine.
Thanx Folks!
What's a DP Slug?
-
I changed out the sights on my M4.
XS on the front
and Fiber optic on the rear.
What range should I try to zero in at?
This is my first shotgun.
-
Thanx Bud!
Any advantage as far as slugs are concerned with switching to a wider choke?
-
Hi,
I have the stock choke in it that came with it.
Can I shoot slugs through it just as is?
-
I keep feeling like everyone misses the boat with M1014/M4 handguards because they try too hard.
What do we want?
Something that plops down in place of the OEM's and allows us to mount a light, ambi.
You know what I would do, were I King for a day?
I'd make a handguard that was identical to OEM in shape, and material, except the texture of the currently "ribbed" area (haha...) would be the same texture as the S&P M&P2.0 grip area, and the very end at 11 and 1 O-clock would have a metal-backed MLOK slot, and be "flared" so as to be able to mount a light with a 1.4" or smaller bezel without contacting the barrel. The MLOK slot would be accessed from the back, with the handguards removed from the shotgun, as an admin task. It would accept Magpul MLOK accessories found here:
People could bolt whatever light, and however they wanted that light, on-to said handguard. I would supply also custom fasteners/backers made of metal to interface with the metal insert of the back of the MLOK in a solid fashion, as a way to hard-mount Surefire and Streamlight Scout lights, and that dimension is what I would base the 1.4" or smaller bezel off of. At 1.4", the bezel of a Scout IB light would clear. Any other hardware (forward extensions, 1913 section, etc.) would create further stand-off for those who had other plans.
It would be so simple. So easy. So damn un-complicated to do this. To stop trying to make it look like a cheese-grater. To stop trying to figure out how to put a VFG on it. To stop all of this **** that noone asked for...and simply make OEM quality and interface handguards with a simple parallel flare at the muzzle end on either side, with an MLOK slot and embedded stainless plate.
But no. NOONE wants to do this. They all want set-screws, and "remove 2 bolts to take it apart for cleaning the SG" and all this other stuff.
I wish I had the time, capital, and machinery to do what I just said above. I'd create an entire empire out of 1 product. Then I'd adapt it to the 1301, M1, M2, etc.
Ever notice how a company that does only ONE THING, but does it flawlessly and in a "less is more" way, somehow always ends up as an empire? Geissele made a trigger. LaRue made a mount. So on.
I'm sorry for the rant, but it seems things keep getting more and more complex with these handguards, reaching their ultimate zenith with the B&T and the like.
Hmmm, that's exactly what I want.
Sorry to the OP, but I wouldn't want or use that product he posted, if I won it it for free.
I'm anti-cheese grater as well.
FS: Geissele Automatics Benelli M4 Hammer
in Benelli
Posted
Mine was New in the package and untouched by Human Hands as well