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Benelli M4 -- Weapon light mounting Options Suck!


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I went with the ACE cup for now.

 

1) Threaded the retainer to 10/32

2) Drilled PG to .5 on the left hand side.

3) Threaded right PG side almost through with the 10/32 tap, leaving just a little unthreaded lip.

 

The QD cup doesn't interfere with my hand all all when there is no QD sling in it. it's not there as far as I am concerned. I have to do some runs with it with a sling to determine if a non-rotation limited will bother me. It doesn't bother me from some quick drills, but won't know for sure until I work with it.

 

If I can't live without rotation limited I will have to have the IWC turned down to .5 in a lathe.

 

The screw pictured is 1"x10/32. I have one that I have painted black so it won't be shiny / visible as it is in these pictures. Just letting the paint dry.

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2057[/ATTACH]

 

U2AzYgY.jpg

 

 

Now all I have to do is order a replacement PG set from Numeric for my spare parts kit so I have original parts unmodified in case they can't be found one day.

Edited by bm4sbs
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I am happy with it so far. One could use this method to do an ambi mount as well - as you did. Only difference really is the threading of the retainer. You could use shorter screws - one from each side, or use one of the flat washer style nuts from IWC or magpul trimmed down and put in the QD cup opposite the screw. Each cup would sit flush against the retainer.

 

I used a 10/32 after doing alot of detailed measurements, looking at the tap/drill charts, ID and OD of the screw threads, etc. I went with 10/32 because it did not require drilling before taping the retainer and retained the most amount of material. 5mm was the other apparent option but it would require one to drill before tap - removing more material, add opportunity for error, etc.

 

I figured if I need the anti-rotation, I would have to have the IWC turned down anyway, so I can just have it turned to .5 and make it fit the hole I have.

Edited by bm4sbs
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  • 4 weeks later...

There are a few mounts like that on the market already. Gear Sector, Thorn Tail, and Low Pro each have one that is similar. It's hard to tell exactly from the picture there, but that looks closest to a thorntail.

 

It does look like that is adaptable to a large variance in OD for the flashlight body the way it clamps, however that is at the expense of keeping the flashlight really close to the firearm. If you have a large bezel, it won't matter. Probably great for Surefire 6 series.

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Meh. Looks like another copycat offset mount.

 

I should throw these here into this thread. These pictures came out pretty close to how the color looks in person. The graphite black Cerakote masked the work area pretty well. The epoxy I used had small air bubbles within it, which left those small holes visible. I don't really care that much about it. The mount functions 100%. It does everything you want without having to put your thumb on some sharp rails or some Quasimodo mounting solution. If this Scout light mounted any closer to the rail, the tail cap would be touching.

 

027_zps52579f73.jpg

 

013_zps8f7ffc6d.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

BW-How did you secure the Magpul rail to the M4 hand guard? I just bought the Magpul rail, and drilled 2 holes In my hand guard. I secured the rail with the supplied hardware from Magpul...............Then the hand rail would not fit on the M4. The screws are hitting the gas tube. Did you glue yours or DBL sided tape?

Stranger......you seem like you are getting back towards similar options discussed before using the factory forend and direct attachment of rails ?

Screenshot2013-01-22at74057AM_zps5c684e6b.pngScreenshot2013-01-22at74110AM_zpsfcb8d06a.png

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  • 2 weeks later...

Photos should be back up in a few days. Just finalized my sling setup. The rear sling mount is shown here:

http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/qd-rotation-limited-buttstock-sling-mount-n-slot/

 

I shoot right handed, but I set the QD socket so it is on the right side of the weapon (ejection port side). This keeps the sling from interfering with shouldering the stock. When mounted on the left side, the sling would bunch up against my pectoral major muscle and prevent me from getting the butt of the stock into my shoulder. Having the mount on the left side also allows the weapon to roll away from your body. This can cause some discomfort during longer carry sessions since the pistol grip tends to dig into your back.

 

No modifications were needed to fit this mount to the collapsible stock. I just had to tap the screws through the slot with a derlin punch to get through. I slide the mount to the bottom of the sling slot and tightened the screws. The QD mount ships with two different sized spacers that go under the fasteners side of the mount. I used the larger of the two.

 

Having the mount point on the right side prevents the weapon from rolling away from you. The forward mounts are on the left side of the receiver. I have two QD ports present. One on the modified BLAM4 mount and another attached directly to the FFT handguard.

 

The sling I'm using is a VCAS padded sling with QD ends sewn into it. The adjustment strap allows you to cinch the weapon to your body during hikes/patrols where the weapon isn't needed to be at the ready. Add slack with the tab, and you have all the free movement you desire. Enough so that it doesn't interfere with loading too much.

 

By far, this is the best sling setup I've ever used on the M4. All other setups would induce a lot of weapon roll or impede shouldering the weapon properly. I'd always end up with the buttpad more on my arm rather than in the pocket of my shoulder as a result.

 

Also, a big shout out goes to bm4sbs. He sent me a QD mount from IWC to play with. I haven't used it yet, since I'll need the lathe to make it work. I'm not sure if it will be needed, since I'm pretty happy with this current setup. Thanks anyway though.

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Also, I should mention that I've put nearly a 1000 rounds through the M4 since it came back from WMD Guns. Lots of weak birdshot, high brass #4 birdshot, 00 buckshot and slugs. Initially, I experienced some jamming on weak birdshot. The bolt would cycle to the rear, and get stuck. Bumping the bolt handle would continue the bolt into battery. As I've put more rounds through the weapon, reliability has improved. Basically it's like breaking the weapon in all over again.

 

The finish is holding up well. Example, after a 1000 rounds, none of the Cerakote has worn off of the area around the ejection port. Another nice thing about the finish is it doesn't leave finger prints. There is no need to wipe down the steel parts with oil to prevent rust. So everything is basically chemically degreased. Dust isn't attracted to it.

 

I did some night shooting with the new weapon light mount. The button couldn't be in a better position for momentary and constant on control. No issues with the mount deforming, melting or deteriorating from high heat exposure. I did a lot of shooting several evenings out here in the Mojave. My IR temp gun said the barrel was about 160 degrees through various stages. Even the handguards themselves were about 120 degrees.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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