Jump to content

M1014 Barrel and Chokes


Recommended Posts

Hello all.

I am new to shotguns and I have been putting together an M1014. 

If I understand the barrel system correctly - mine is a fixed choke (built into the barrel) and is a "modified improved" type. 

Is there any huge benefit in either 1) buying a non-fixed choke barrel or 2) having this one modified to accept one? (I'd rather do the former, but I might as well get the entry barrel at that point)

Not really sure what the benefits are. I was getting about 1ft groups of Remington target load bird shot at 10 yards. (very rough estimate) Again, new to shotguns, and I am not sure where I should go from here. All I know is I am MOST INTERESTED in running further reaching SLUGS and BUCK SHOT.

Thanks for your help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm not an expert on chokes and their effects with various loads. But IMO, it's an advantage to have a barrel where you can change the constriction to tailor your needs/desires for any given load that you may want to shoot.

Various brands/loadings will behave differently with the same choke. So it's a matter of experimenting with the combos.

From what I have read here, the M1014 barrel is a modified choke. The 14" entry barrel is a cylinder choke. I kinda think that an IC choke is the best of all worlds, a tad tighter than a cylinder choke but also works well with slugs.

I pretty much shoot mostly Federal LE reduced recoil slugs and flight control 00 buck. I do have a bunch of military 00 buck that I'll try out one day. I have had very good accuracy with slugs, and fairly tight patterns with 00 with both the IC and cylinder chokes.

But I don't over think it either. For me, it's a combat shotgun, not a sniper rifle. Just my opinion...  


Edited by Evolution
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Perhaps no one answered because the forum and the internet is peppered with this type of information. Not trying to be mean, just pointing out a possible "why".

Benelli's have thin barrels. That is a small part of why in general that they are lighter than much of the competition. I mention this because some models I know can't be cut down and re-threaded. However, since there is some choke material in there, a company like Briley maybe could do it. Remember that the choke is at the end of the barrel (muzzle), as such it is the last thing that touches the projectile(s) so get a skilled 'smith to do it.

As Evolution mentioned, having screw-in chokes gives more versatility. Shotguns for centuries have had just a fixed choke with one size/type restriction. I think it was the 1960's where it was introduced in a production shotgun. If memory serves, it was a Winchester pump that kind of kicked it off. So, it is safe to say that people all over the world fed their families before screw-in chokes took over. Back then, if for some reason you needed a wider capability than your existing choke offered, you'd buy a whole barrel. That obviously makes it tough to take another option in the field with you while hunting. If I could only have a single choke for all my hunting needs, it would be "Improved Modified".

Personally, I don't mind a "tactical" (I hate that over-used word) shotgun having a fixed choke as the ranges are purposely intended to be shorter range (than hunting shotguns, which are already very short range compared to rifles). That said, I would not ever buy a shotgun for hunting without them. There were also several attempts to make adjustable chokes such as the Poly-Choke. They worked OK, but never as well as individual choke. As mentioned above, different loads will behave differently through the exact same choke.

Not as much as once believed, but barrel length plays a part in all that too. The old-time logic was a longer barrel gave you a tighter pattern and higher velocity. That may have been true based on my experience with blackpowder but with modern propellants, the powder burn is mostly over well before the end of the barrel of most shotguns. Also, note that though it may seem counterintuitive, going too tight of a choke can actually open up your pattern as your pellets can deform. Also, when using steel shot, there is a maximum restriction that it can be shot through. I think generally it is Modified though it does vary. Always check before shooting steel loads.

For me, longer or shorter barrels are more for the swing characteristics. I've had my Super Black Eagle since 1995. At the time, I had a shotgun for hunting one thing (such as rising birds), and another for skeet, another for crossing birds, and another for deer hunting with slugs. Once I discovered the SBE, it was an eye opener. I slowly sold off all the different 12 gauge shotguns I didn't need anymore since I could do it all with that one gun. However, as time went on, it became obvious that the 28" barrel on an already long 3.5" receiver really was clumsy in the woods and also while turkey hunting. So, my quest started for shorter barrels. By then, I couldn't find any for the original SBE1, so I bought SBE2 barrels and also a slug barrel. Then, later I found the low rib original SBE type. I haven't shot several of the SBE2 barrels, but the SBE barrels I have shot, I can take the same choke from one barrel, put it in another barrel and the point of aim moves slightly, and groups change a marginal amount. It isn't noticeable in the field, but is evident on a patterning board.



There is a TON of information out on the web too about how the choke restrictions change the pattern, generalized tables with actual measurements of how much restriction each choke has, what the intended range for each is, etc. This is one of many, but looked decent:

One last question. Are you going to do any hunting with this firearm, or is it only for defense? If the latter, how big of an area will you be defending (i.e. the size of the house/room)? I ask because you said you were interested in reaching out. In a typical house you won't need the range, but I understand the desire to load heavier loads like double or triple buck. I don't use a shotgun any more for home defense, but when I did, I had it loaded like this: Chamber: 000 buck. Magazine tube: slug, 000, slug, 000, slug, 000... My logic was the buck shot for a little spread and a little more efficiency for a target in the open. But, still had every other shot a slug in case they have heavy clothing or if they were behind a sheetrock wall. 

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ammunition selection will pattern differently with each barrel. Rounds with FlightControl perform very well here. 

I’ve been sending the M1014 barrels to Briley to have them threaded for an internal choke. It’s around 160 bucks. They do excellent work and are pretty fast. At that point, you can then add various choke options depending on your goals. Some options are titanium chokes that cut a little weight off the muzzle end and are impervious to rust. Rusting is a big issue that is commonly not seen until it’s too late. It’s the only thing I’ve seen rust on the Benelli M4. 

If you are going to add a choke or buy a barrel, get the Briley choke wrench, thread cleaning brush and their choke grease. I’ve never had a choke back out when using their tool. I can’t say the same for the factory wrench. 

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...