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New Benelli M4 Owner Question


iamrt

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I ordered a model 11794 - Benelli H20 with Pistol Grip and 5+1 tube. Initially I believed that this was the NP3 model due to shoddy due-diligence and ignorance. However, I've been wanting an M4 for some time. With that being said, I'm curious what the thoughts are on the Titanium Cerakote vs the Black Anodized Aluminum (I believe?) finish for general corrosion resistance and longevity. Sending off for NP3 may never happen unless the difference takes it to another level completely. 

I'm aware of 922(r) and the parts that would be ideal to upgrade (7 round tube most certainly, but not entirely sold on the collapsible stock, not that I can just get one at any time anyway). I know that patience could POTENTIALLY pay off as there is the possibility of a used m4 with the 7 round tube and collapsible stock being sold but in my mind I would rather have new over used knowing that with proper care, 30,000+ rounds aren't out of the question.

Any comparisons of the 2 finishes would be greatly appreciated as well as any other feedback. From my research after-the-fact, this forum appears to be chock full of quality people so I look forward to the responses.

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Mine seems to be pretty durable as far as normal use.  If something is scraping or rubbing an area it will rub off.

For example, Where my Mesa 8rnd rail/shell holder was mounted(with rubber backing strip).  When I removed it, there was small dash marks at top.

I think normal wear and tear on a firearm looks good.  Just don't like finish coming off on its on.

Other cerakoted firearms I have, have held up really good.  If you want no wear to show, then better go with the blue/black.

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Sorry that Benelli hoodwinked you with their naming system of the H20, it's a pretty common problem.

The anodizing is beneath the cerakote model M4's. My guess is they roughed it up a bit either with a bead blaster before painting. Their Cerakote doesn't seem to adhere as well as other cerakote paints I've encountered. Example, the carriercomp titanium tube's cerakote process is bomb proof.

The NP3 parts have the benefit of having a reduced friction coefficient. The parts can be difficult to hold onto when oiled since they're so slippery. I work over big rubber mats to keep from dropping them on the floor. With certain areas of the M4 or other firearms plated, the firearm operates smoother and uses less of its recoil energy to cycle the action. Fully plated M4's will cycle lower recoil shells more reliably as a result. Having the parts plated yourself is costly, takes forever and sometimes requires some fitting to get them to function properly again. Tolerances are quite tight in areas like the gas pistons, so you may have to remove some of the finish to get them to fit back into the barrel housing. This is pretty easy to do, but just expect such work.

I've never seen a M4 rusting, so the surface layer protection is a little moot. Maybe if you're exposed to extremely high humidity or salt water environments it may be of benefit.

 

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Holds up fine for me.  When doomsday comes around and I really punish it we’ll find out.  It’s just easier to clean and an extra layer of moisture protection… even if it’s a moot point and danger said.  

I don’t know if they necessarily hoodwinked you.  NP3 would likely have been reflected in a higher price than 1 or 2 hundred bucks.  

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10 hours ago, Ben elLes said:

Holds up fine for me.  When doomsday comes around and I really punish it we’ll find out.  It’s just easier to clean and an extra layer of moisture protection… even if it’s a moot point and danger said.  

I don’t know if they necessarily hoodwinked you.  NP3 would likely have been reflected in a higher price than 1 or 2 hundred bucks.  

Good to hear. I figured in the end the cerakote would be at least be marginally better than just the anodizing. 

As a side note, does anyone know which Titanium is used on this model? The cerakote website lists 3 different codes for Titanium.

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