Benelli M4 Aluminum to Polymer Trigger Guard (housing) Timeline And Polymer Replacement

[DEBWB]

Can someone give me a brief history of when the aluminum trigger guard/ housing to polymer occurred on the M4s?  I have an 11718 I purchased new 10-2016 and an 11795 on 7-2020. I'm assuming the 11795 is polymer, but not sure about the 11718.  For the occasional shooter; is it worth switching out a polymer guard/ housing for aluminum?  I believe SD recommends A&S Engineering over the Benelli OEM aluminum. Any insight much appreciated.

[cas]

7 minutes ago, DEBWB said:

For the occasional shooter; is it worth switching out a polymer guard/ housing for aluminum?

IMO not in any way. 

Honestly I don't feel it's worth it for anyone, but that's just me, I know plenty with disagree till they're blue in the face.  (I have factory polymer as well as factory and aftermarket metal ones)

I put a "pretty blue one" on my race gun because it was pretty blue. I've found no other advantage to it. I had to shim/peen it to fit the receiver well and not rock/rattle around.  It's no easier to load  with it. MAYBE it's stronger if I use my shotgun as a club and hope the trigger still works? Maybe not though. I only have one spare plastic housing and no spare metal one's, so I can't do a side by side torture test. Waiting on the federal funding.

[Diesel79]

I put an A and S on mine.  I wanted it for a 922r part, and it’s sweet. 

[RxArms]

The polymer is actually stronger for impact resistance than the aluminum.  People like like the idea of “metal”, but the current OEM polymer nylon trigger housing is strong.

[Fullassault]

The aluminum trigger housing fits my gun better than the poly did. It also changes the feel of the trigger. As for durability, I haven’t personally broke either so can’t comment on that. The USMC M1014 I have saw had aluminum trigger housings. That’s why I went that route with mine.

[StreetSweeper56]

I have A&S trigger guards on my M4's because they have feed channels on them, it does help with dual shell loading.

[cas]

1 hour ago, StreetSweeper56 said:

...they have feed channels on them, it does help with dual shell loading.

My experience is shells really don't come anywhere near it while quad loading, so it doesn't really help me in any way.  I've seen other people claim it does. I've often wondered if they just think it does, or are they loading much differently than I do?

[StreetSweeper56]

8 hours ago, cas said:

My experience is shells really don't come anywhere near it while quad loading, so it doesn't really help me in any way.  I've seen other people claim it does. I've often wondered if they just think it does, or are they loading much differently than I do?

You slap the shells on it and it guides them right in, it's why some used to try to dremel a channel in the polymer ones. How you're loading where the shells don't come "anywhere near it" is beyond me, the trigger guard channel is right next to the feed ramp.

[cas]

By pushing the shells into the loading port, not pushing the case heads into the trigger guard? 

Edited September 2, 2022 by cas

[StreetSweeper56]

47 minutes ago, cas said:

By pushing the shells into the loading port, not pushing the case heads into the trigger guard? 

Right, that's no where near the trigger guard 🙄

[DEBWB]

Thanks everyone for responding to my topic. All comments are very helpful and appreciated. I planned on purchasing and installing the BenelliParts.net trigger kit for 922r and was wondering if I should do the aluminum guard as well. Initially, I was going to buy the Benelli OEM aluminum guards ($148 ea), but it seems it's hit/miss if you get one without defects. The A & S trigger guard appears to be of high quality, but is quite expensive ($229 ea).  Just not sure if it'sworth the extra cost for the casual shooter. I just don't see myself being that aggressive with the loading.

[cas]

4 hours ago, StreetSweeper56 said:

Right, that's no where near the trigger guard 🙄

The only reason it needs to be ramped and scalloped is because it's there. If all that extra wasn't there like on a factory guard, it wouldn't need to be. lol

Actually when I first played with one in person I thought "Why the half measure?" If you're going to make it ramped and concave, why not go all the way and continue the troth farther back into the trigger guard loop itself and have it open ended. Though that would be a pure race part and not appeal to as big a market.

I think I might prefer it flat rather than concave. The anodizing is thinning on the edges of mine, not from the rims rubbing on it, but from my thumb. That's why I say "no where near it" because my thumb is what's riding on the two edges and after many stages the side of my thumb is feeling it. 

Edited September 3, 2022 by cas

[StrangerDanger]

The polymer trigger frame is plenty strong. I've never seen any that have been damaged. The OEM cast aluminum frames are really rough. There are voids and pin holes in the surface that formed during their forging. Most have significant casting marks. I've cleaned up some that would cut your fingers if you ran them over it. You can file them down, but you'll get stuck refinishing it. The polymer frames are a little lighter than the aluminum ones too.

I don't use the ramp on the A&S Engineering frames. Their machining is very nice since they're machined billets. Wish they'd upgrade to a 7075 aluminum series though.

 

[DEBWB]

Again, thanks to all that have responded. At this point; I have been convinced to stay with the OEM guards. I'll install the BenelliParts trigger package for 922R and slap on the 2 round extension tube.

Still wondering when they switched from aluminum to polymer guards though...

[StrangerDanger]

I think the switch occurred around 2014, but I may be off a little.

Do a full trigger test once you've done that trigger swap. I've done a few of those triggers that needed fitting to make function properly. The hammer would hang on the disconnector. So familiarize yourself with how the sears engage on your OEM pack before doing the work. How the hammer engages the disconnector, then slips past the disconnector to the trigger sear. How it behaves when pulling and holding the trigger to the rear vs. no pull on the trigger and rocking the hammer to the rear and engaging it. Make certain the safety is performing as intended. I'd also recommend using a good grease on the sear contacts, any will do fine but I've had really good luck with the standard weight Brian Enos' Slide Glide. One tube is probably a lifetime supply for the average shooter.

[DEBWB]

On 9/8/2022 at 2:26 PM, StrangerDanger said:

I think the switch occurred around 2014, but I may be off a little.

Do a full trigger test once you've done that trigger swap. I've done a few of those triggers that needed fitting to make function properly. The hammer would hang on the disconnector. So familiarize yourself with how the sears engage on your OEM pack before doing the work. How the hammer engages the disconnector, then slips past the disconnector to the trigger sear. How it behaves when pulling and holding the trigger to the rear vs. no pull on the trigger and rocking the hammer to the rear and engaging it. Make certain the safety is performing as intended. I'd also recommend using a good grease on the sear contacts, any will do fine but I've had really good luck with the standard weight Brian Enos' Slide Glide. One tube is probably a lifetime supply for the average shooter.

Thanks SD, I thought these were just drop in and go. Not sure I have the gun-smithing skills to deal with all you mention. With my luck; I'd have to contend with all you describe. Itching to add my 2 shell extension and need 3 USA parts for 922R. The mag follower is easy, but I'm wondering if the hand guard would count as 2 parts since it's a 2 part system.

[StrangerDanger]

No, the hand guards are considered one piece. Which means the oem set isn’t counting against you twice either. 
 

922 is an asinine invention of politicians, so it’s guaranteed not to make any sense. 

Edited September 11, 2022 by StrangerDanger