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A stoeger m3000 recoil spring might work. It has a very similar recoil system as the M3

A new member “barnardronald” pm’d me on a part that I was looking on the forum. Stated to email a “[email protected]” and he had the part for sale. Emailed with the said seller a few times on selling the part and got the run around. When I requested a front and back photo of the part to confirm he became Casper the ghost. It’s probably been posted before but always be skeptical on the inter-web when buying or selling things especially from a New Member. The Forum administrators should cancel “bernardronald’s member status immediately.

Not a chance. I searched way too long. I wouldn't sell the low ribs, slug barrel, and additional modified forearm. I still haven't decided for sure on the rest. I had initially bought the 2nd SBE at the top just for its barrel and was going to swap the newer type onto it and sell it but ended up keeping it. I might make it something of a 3 gun setup with extended mag, flared mag well, etc. I've got other guns like the M1, M3, or M4 that would be a better fit, but for all other shotgunning activities, the SBE is the one I use so it makes sense to use it for more practice. I know I'll never be at a competitive speed in competition but as long as I have fun and improve, I'll keep at it. Without actually trying, I seem to be a bit of a collector of Benelli barrels. I've got extra for all of them except a 20 gauge Montefeltro that my wife uses.

Reduced $275

Has anyone replaced the M3 recoil spring before? If so, who makes suitable replacements springs / where can I find oem springs for sale? The part in question circled in a diagram below.

Possibly a rough time of the year right now for parts & accessories. Lots of actual firearms sales going on now which may be getting more attention and coin. Keep at it and Good Luck!

Heck these shotgun parts you have to give them away anymore to sell them.Heck not even a offer

Im just doing a make over on my 1301.Get bored and change shit up.Heck that stuff is only beeen mounted on 1301

There's a new heatshield for this handguard from GG&G. It'll work with both the Aridus release of this handguard, as well as GG&G's own release of the same. My Wife loves it, especially now that she doesn't get burnt fingers when shooting for fun w/o gloves.

I got tired of looking around CONUS & OCONUS (Europe mostly) for shorter M3 barrel, so I've got a new "civilian" M3 inbound this week. As soon as it arrives, I'll just pony up the $200 for the stamp same day to eventually make it a 14.5" 5+1 SBS. E-Forms are going quicker these days, as one of my recent submissions from March arrived a couple of weeks ago...

Any chance you’d want to sell me that 26” low rib? Lol

You are in for a long search. How I finally bought mine, was to set up a search term on Gunbroker.com where it alerts you if an item matching your search shows up. For mine, over the course of probably 8 years, I bought a 26", and the rare 24" to go along with my factory 28". I had already bought the same in SBE II configuration in the meantime so I have both now, but I don't want to switch back and forth between the high and low ribs so most are still in the box in the safe. I also bought a slug barrel and the required modified forearm (which is also required for the SBEII field barrels). Good luck on your endeavor.

The thread difference is all the older HK, and early Benelli USA models have the thread at the very end of the barrel. Those are called Mobil chokes and they are maybe 1" or a little more. All new ones for quite a while, I am guessing around 2002 maybe, have Crio chokes. Those are longer maybe around 1.5" and the threads are maybe 3/4" down inside the barrel. They are about the same length as many extended chokes in the Mobil style, but it all fits inside the barrel. You can do a search on the threads here and find who does the threading, cost, limitations, etc. But, for a quick recap I'll tell you that some barrels are either too thin, or they have to run another choke type that is thinner such as Rem-Choke's. Briley is who is most often recommended if I remember right for the cutting and threading. They'll keep everything legal too and make sure you don't go too short where you'll need to register it as a Short Barrelled Shotgun (SBS). If that is actually what you are after, I am not positive they do that, but they might.

Steve, I have not seen a stiff safety on a 828, new gun for a very lomg time. Benelli has a 10 year warranty on all firearms, they will refit 828U safety art no charge. I do have intructions on how to complete this as well. Most of your comments are way over the top and show the lack of understanding on your part. Perhaps the one of the benefits of the forum is to educate. Functionality of the safety as well as the the Top Lever is quite often misunderstood on the 828. Both were designed to slide with the design lines of the gun. Quite often shooters are applying downward pressure on both the safety and the top lever. When this occurs functionality of both components becomes resistant.

I have several Benelli's and I am looking at having a few barrels threaded for chokes (Also Benelli's... M4 and a cut down Nova). I have a Salvo 12 on the way and I'd like to keep them all threaded the same for simplicities sake. I don't want to add a new set of chokes and have dozens of Benelli and Beretta Chokes laying around but I do want to thread a few barrels. The chopped Nova might be too thin to thread but the M4 has some serious meet on the tube. I am having a tough time tracking down a service provider for threading to the Benelli pattern. Some searching also revealed there are 2 separate Benelli thread patterns? Can those more informed that me help me understand the difference? I have a M1 and Nova's that are already threaded... I'd like to cut my M4 to match. It appears that Benelli offers "Barrel Cutting/Choke Installation" services but I am unsure if that is threading the barrels for their chokes? Thanks in advance-

Mike B, Sorry that is going on. It is completely ridiculous. Benelli appears clueless and incompetent with this 828U which has been out for a long time now. I just saw an add for a new model and I’m not sure from the photo but it looks like the safety may have been redesigned because it looks slightly elevated in the back and not flush with the receiver. In my opinion they should replace this safety free of charge with a better designed one to anyone who complains about it. I hope they fix it to your satisfaction soon. Steve

Thanks @SJELK. After reading your response, I sent the 828U to Benelli, via Scheels in Johnstown, CO. It's been two months and I haven't heard a thing. Scheels said it could take a few months, so I'll be patient, to a point. ; ) Also, I fully agree and echo everything in your original post. Glad you got your gun fixed. This is a widespread manufacturing defect, specific to the Benelli 828 series, and it appears frequently in gunsmithing forums worldwide. This should not be happening in a gun of this class and price point. Cheers. To all those who posted that their 828U safety switch works just fine, I say "Good for you". Mike B

I am not pressing the safety and the level at the same time.

Looking for a low rib 26" barrel for an HK SBE

BLASPHEMY!!!!

Or the contact with the fore-end accelerated the finish wear (that is not seen until the gun is disassembled) "It is on the area that is covered by the fore-end when assembled"

Comes with 870 stock and adapter new style buffer.with stick on grip and handguad with same tape.And a rmr crom. Rob Haught mod only thing is missing a screw.A$6 from airdus. 325

HD= sling + Light. A sling is necessary if you need your hands, or if there is a fight/grab over the gun. Light is a MUST to ID what you’re about to shoot with OO Buck shot. A red dot could be helpful but I’d put that in the nice to have column vs the have to have.

It looks like it’s over the barrel roll marks? At least it looks like symbols underneath. I would bet the wrap/dip wouldn’t adhere to a roll stamped surface vs a smooth surface. I’m just guessing here.

No it is not normal if it came from the factory that way. But, if they had, it should have been addressed at that time. With normal use I've found these camo wraps will wear through the image with extended use, and any impacts will tear chips out like it shows in yours. I've had some bumps and rubs that seemed so insignificant do this. I know the same impact wouldn't have looked as visible on regular blued or matte finishes which penetrate the metal. As a result, long ago, I went back to standard metal finishes on all my hunting arms that will see any extended service. This "weakness" is fairly industry wide. If they are painted on instead of a wrap, they last a little better, but not as well as blued, NP3, etc where it penetrates the metal. It's maybe not the best analogy, but I liken it to the idea of bed liners can take a ton of abuse. The same abuse against the original paint would be very evident. Like Remarkable said, it's worth a call to Benelli. Be nice and politely plead your case. You never know.