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My opinion is take your money elsewhere. FFT doesn't do returns and is often the most expensive option compared to other places. If you run into problems with his custom parts its very difficult to get things resolved. There's like a bajillion disclaimers on every page stating with very anti-consumer messaging. Just some examples of the super scalping there:

Posted to wrong thread. Having extra ammo on your gun cannot be beat because in a shit blizzard you may not have time to grab anything but the gun - Quality shotgun cards - https://esstac.com/shotgun/ Buttstock ammo carrier (I'm not promoting this one, only using as an example) - https://www.ebay.com/itm/275013558357?hash=item400815e055:g:HZMAAOSwIJJhgzso Then there are the sling/bandolier combos or the shotshell holder that slips over your forearm (not a fan of either). In a shit blizzard keeping track of a pouch or bag not attached to your body or LBE isn't going to work out very well. Personally, beyond the rounds stowed on the gun itself I'm big on quality bandoliers, the best quality 12 ga. bandolier that I've found is Urban ERT - https://www.urbanertslings.com/50-round-tactical-combat-shotgun-bandoleer-for-the-12-gauge-shotgun/ Urban ERT shotshell holder belt - https://www.urbanertslings.com/30-round-12-gauge-2-shotgun-shell-belt/ Too bad Uncle Mike's quit making this vest - https://www.bluesheepdog.com/uncle-mikes-breacher-vest-review/

This tutorial will focus on the removal of the Benelli M4 field and pistol grip stock’s sling plate. A big thanks goes out to Benelliwerks to advising me how to get the assembly apart a few years back. I just finally figured out how to actually do it. As you can see by the Benelli diagram above, both the field and the pistol grip stock are assembled the same way with the same components when it comes to the rear sling mount. Remove the Recoil Pad (061C) from the stock by unscrewing the two self-tapping screws (062J) that are accessed from the two small holes at the rear of the Recoil Pad (061C). Note: You’ll want to use a fixed blade Philips screw driver. Use a little oil or spit on the small opening at the bottom of the recoil pad. Press the screw driver into the hole until you feel it engage the screw bit.

I think I found what I've been looking for. http://www.bluesheepdog.com/uncle-mikes-breacher-vest-review/

That's a good question! I prefer a 5 round card, any larger and it seems to interfere with my grip. However, a 7 round card fits perfectly in a 30 round ar15 mag carrier. Carrying extra loaded cards is a good idea. You can pull off the empty card and slap on a loaded one in 2 seconds, empty, they lay flat too.

Sukhoi_fan, thank you for taking the time to put this information together. This certainly provides some options. I understand your point about the shotgun cards. It makes sense having the extra ammo on the gun. It’s just adding so much weight……. I might just buy pajamas with pockets and keep a half dozen rounds in one of the pockets when I sleep. ?

Thanks for the info, @Sukhoi_fan. For the reasons you listed I’ve been thinking about trying out an Esstac set-up on my M4. Of the various sizes available, I get that round count will be up to the individual purchaser but, is there a max size that fits in the logical location on the M4 (ex.- Don’t buy larger than 5-round because the 6&7-round cards are too long to reasonably fit on the receiver)?

Marks on the receiver probably won't cause any issues, just look ugly. That carrier looks like it was dropped on something hard. The high spots could be filed down to prevent more wear, but the correct coarse of action would be to make Benelli replace it.

Having extra ammo on your gun cannot be beat because in a shit blizzard you may not have time to grab anything but the gun - Quality shotgun cards - https://esstac.com/shotgun/ Buttstock ammo carrier (I'm not promoting this one, only using as an example) - https://www.ebay.com/itm/275013558357?hash=item400815e055:g:HZMAAOSwIJJhgzso Then there are the sling/bandolier combos or the shotshell holder that slips over your forearm (not a fan of either). In a shit blizzard keeping track of a pouch or bag not attached to your body or LBE isn't going to work out very well. Personally, beyond the rounds stowed on the gun itself I'm big on quality bandoliers, the best quality 12 ga. bandolier that I've found is Urban ERT - https://www.urbanertslings.com/50-round-tactical-combat-shotgun-bandoleer-for-the-12-gauge-shotgun/ Urban ERT shotshell holder belt - https://www.urbanertslings.com/30-round-12-gauge-2-shotgun-shell-belt/ Too bad Uncle Mike's quit making this vest - https://www.bluesheepdog.com/uncle-mikes-breacher-vest-review/

Thanks for the link MMP. My nephew is an MP at the American Embassy in the Philippines. The person selling the stock is wanting $835.00. That's about double the regular price. I can't justify that just in principle. But I do appreciate you trying to help me and I appreciate your service!

Yes they're trying to make a buck and yes, there's a distinct possibility it will fit as they've stated. If it were me I'd just keep the standard stock as long as the LOP was correct for me. IMO the only real advantage to the pistol grip is shooting across your chest not shouldered, very limited use. There is a tacticool factor to a pistol grip but it also increases the height of the gun considerabily; your M4 as is will fit in a scabbard easily. Just my 2 cents, YMMV.

Copied from a similar thread on AR15.com: What you have there is a factory-made M1 Benelli barrel ordered by Benelli USA for use in the Entry Model, but never actually cut to 14”. NFA firearms are not importable for civilian sale, so as a workaround, Benelli USA orders and imports from Benelli ITA as an 18” model with the sights installed for 14” length, just as you observed, then cuts to 14” and Form 2 registers as an NFA SBS. Never seen one make it out of the factory, pretty cool. ETA: Benelli doesn’t really position their NFA shotguns for civilian sales per se and the Entry models could be imported directly as NFA guns, however there is a ton of additional paperwork involved and the imported NFA guns become the practical equivalent of a pre-may dealer sample MG. This workaround is perfectly legal, smooths the distribution workflow and allows the resulting gun to be transferable rather than only available to LE and SOTs. That barrel is certainly an oddity to most people, but is worth a premium to a Benelli M1/M2 owner looking to Form 1 their gun into an SBS.

ALL triggers matter.

Here is a photo showing the sling mount assembly overlaid on the stock. Now for reassembly, most of the reverse installation is pretty self-explanatory. There is one area that can cause grief though. You need to screw the Stock Retaining Pin in through the assembly and into the Stock Retaining Piece. The problem is, there is nothing to hold the Stock Retaining Pin by as you thread it in deep inside of the stock. This is how I do it. I have two of the Stock Retaining Nuts on hand. I screw the first Stock Retaining Nut onto the Stock Retaining Pin as shown below. You want to gently screw the Stock Retaining Pin into the Stock Retaining Piece with the aid of the Stock Retaining Nut and your 13mm deep socket driver. You don’t want to crank on this, because you’re going to need to get that nut back off. Once you’ve seated the Stock Retaining Pin all the way, install the second Stock Retaining Nut onto the recoil pad side of the Stock Retaining Pin. Tighten this nut firmly in place. At this point, you should be able to unscrew the first Stock Retaining Nut without risk of the Stock Retaining Pin moving. I would apply Locktite primer and blue Locktite to the threaded portion of the Stock Retaining Pin that the Stock Retaining Piece and permanent Stock Retaining Nut attach to. Do not put Locktite on the portion that screw into the receiver extension. The Stock Retaining Pin is 8mm in diameter x 1mm thread pitch. A nylon lock nut is ideal for using as a slave nut.

Put the Stock Retaining Pin and the Stock Retaining Nut combo into the vice carefully. Try not to mar up your work. I find an angled approach in the vice works best to avoid the raised surfaces on the Stock Retaining Pin. Apply heat to the Stock Retaining Nut and unscrew it from the Stock Retaining Pin. At this point, your Stock Retaining Pin free to be cleaned up with a wire brush to remove all of the factory thread locker.

Sling Plate (063J) Removed. I recommend that you remove the Stock Retaining Nut from the Stock Retaining Pin since you don’t want to have the nut stuck on the pin. At this point, you probably have the nut jammed on pretty tight.

Next, tip the stock forward and allow the Stock Retaining Pin (280J) and the Stock Retaining Nut (053J) to fall out the front. The Stock Retaining Nut (053J) will still be attached to the Stock Retaining Pin (280.) At this point, the Sling Plate (063J) will simply pull out either side of the stock.

Next, look down the front end of the stock with a small flash light. Notice the threaded portion in the center of the stock. This is what the stock screws into the receiver extension by. Next, tighten the 13mm Stock Retaining Nut over this end of the Stock Retaining Pin (280J). You want to tighten this firmly. Note: Here is the nut tightened. The purpose for this is to use this nut to give you leverage on the Stock Retaining Pin (280J) so that you can unscrew it.

At this point, I like to move the stock to nearly a horizontal position in the vice. It will help with putting the nut in place. Insert your 13mm nut into a 13mm deep socket with a 10 inch extension.

Note: I’ve shown the orientation of the Stock Retaining Pin (280J in the bottom right corner of the image. Note: The removed 13mm Stock Retaining Nut (053J).

Note: Application of heat.

You can see here that the screws are the self-threading type. Be careful with these on the pistol grip and field stocks. It is easy to strip out the holes in the stock. Next, look down inside the bottom of the stock and note the 13mm Stock Retaining Nut (053J). I personally prefer to put the stock in a padded vice. Having it in a vice will give you more hands to work with. Naturally you do not want to crush your stock with the vice, so use your best judgment. Note: I’ve shown how the hardware is assembled in the bottom right corner to give you a visual reference to what you’re working on. You're going to need a heat gun, because those evil Italians locktited the crap out of the threaded portions of the Stock Retaining Pin (280J). You're going to want to focus your heat through the bottom end of the butt stock on the 13mm Stock Retaining Nut (053J). Apply enough heat to let the locktite give way and remove the 13mm nut. I run the heat gun for approximately thirty seconds, and try to unscrew it. You do not want to use retard strength on this. If you try to force it, you’ll see that you’re jamming the wing of the Stock Retaining Piece (278J) into the inner body of the stock. Once the Stock Retaining Nut (053J) begins to move, the battle has been won. Remove it completely from the stock. Be careful with it though, it will likely be hot.