Leaderboard

So my offset MLOK light mount came in today. As anticipated, the rail needed to be modified to permit the offset mount enough clearance to place the light in my desired location, which is around 1:30. This pulls the light in to the space between the magazine tube and the barrel. So I cut up the rail to remove the interfering part. Cutting up the rail is fine with me, since its a path finding review/test. The assembly/disassembly of this rail is absolutely terrible. I'd be ashamed to put my name on it if I had made it. You want to like the equipment since it offers you a way to mount the light that eliminates a bunch of problems, but the install is absolute shit. Like seriously, the two plastic parts you have to hold into position to fit against the receiver are such a pain in the ass. If they were set on this kind of design, they would have been better off replacing the rear handguard hanger with one that sandwiches between the magazine tube and the receiver. Then you wouldn't have to fight with the two parts trying to fall out on you constantly. It would have been an all aluminum construction and made the lockup much better. Having to remove your MLOK devices to remove the rail is absolutely stupid. Reversing the HotButton so you press the button rearward was a good choice. I feel like I have a lot more control over the momentary button than I have ever had in the past with Z68 tailcaps or any pressure pads. The way the body of the switch sits protects it pretty welll from accidental light discharges. The body acts as a hand stop that tells me where the button will be. Given the pain in the ass the rail is with mounted mlok devices, I'm running it without rail covers for the time being. I might just throw some Magpul ones on since they're easier to remove. Routing the wire thru the inside of the rail has been a good choice. Very little wire is exposed to hang up on gear. I took it for about a mile hike today in the woods with my plate carrier on, and I didn't have any issues with it hanging up. I may cut a notch in the rail to allow the wire to pass directly from the rubber boot into the interior. The rail cuts easy enough. It only took me about two minutes to trim the rail for the light mount.

You can adjust the tension of the Scalarworks top rail by how tight you install the two locating screws. What I usually do is I install one screw, then fit the rail to feel for tightness. I keep tightening that screw until I cannot slide the rail into place. Then I'll back it off a little at a time until I can get it to slide into place. I then repeat the process for the second screw. I usually then rub a thin coat of blue Loctite on the base of the rail so that it glues itself to the receiver in time. Then install the two screws that hold the rail in place. I find the torque range of 12-14 inch pounds to be a bit light and may cause your screws to back out on you during recoil. These days I tighten them by feel. Once the screw meets resistance, I turn it about a quarter turn more. In yesterday's FFT youtube video, Todd was going on about having to check these top rail screws constantly. You don't want to have to deal with that. I've never had a screw back out and I've never stripped a screw there. Blue 243 Loctite is your friend on the top rail screws. He reported having to check the screws with a driver constantly. To avoid this problem, just mark your screws with a silver Sharpie or whatever color works for you. You put a thin line across the head of the screw and onto the rail. This will act as a clock or timing line. If the screw moves at all, this line will then be out of alignment.

I don't think they provided me any special service but it was kind of cool. Maybe I'm a problem customer. ? Also if you do as SD mentioned above and click on your repair order you might see a photo in there. I think they emailed me this when they received my parts and it's also in my repair log.

7" lbs is way too light. Seems like they're erring on the side of caution to prevent damage. Have you reached out to Scalarworks about the fitment? That doesn't seem right at all. You should easily be able to tighten the screw to the point that the rail won't slide over it.

I moved to the FFT rail + ADM Ti mount and whatever optic is your flavor. For me, that's T-series micros. Why? I want the ability to use irons if my optic fails...that is a huge reason for "can I see irons through the optic?" However, optics do not often just take a dump where the lights go out. We have evolved to the point that optics are honestly pretty darn reliable in and of themselves. Even on a gauge. So what causes optics to fail? In my case, it has been rain. You get rain on lenses, it can freeze (I hunt in the midwest, and sometimes it rains, drizzles, then freezes as the day goes on, etc.) or you get intractable fogging no matter what you treated it with. This causes it to be a royal pain or even impossible to use the RDS. I use closed emitter types, but even worse with open emitters like RMR. This makes "seeing my irons through the window" an equally trash idea to implement. If the dot is messed up due to optical distortion, the FSP will likely not be super awesome to visualize, either. Maybe for you this is mud, snow, took a sim round to the window, whatever. But for me, it's humidity/rain and cold related. With a SYNC, you are then stuck. You will not be easily aiming that weapon. You have lost both primary and backup sighting methods because something got rained on and temps dropped, or mud, or whatever. With a QD system like the ADM Ti mount, I can pop the optic off, stow it in my pocket, and finish the hunt/training course/whatever. Further, the ADM Ti on a 1913 rail places the optic a hair higher than the SYNC, which is PERFECT for the mid setting of the C-Stock without NODS. With NODS, it places the optic higher for better use with NODS with the stock fully extended. It really is the "sweet spot", while the SYNC is more tuned toward being a good cheek weld without NODS, with the stock fully out. I prefer to run the stock on the mid (12.25" LOP) setting when I'm not running NODS. Further still is attachment method. I prefer 5 screws to 2, with 2 locators. So far, the ADM Ti mount has held up EXCELLENT and I have had no issues of any kind with it regarding zero shift or any other malady. The new Ti levers/bolts are physically much stronger than the previous iterations.

I use their mount for an RMR and like you, it went on tight. Bought about 2 years ago. Maybe they changed something in the design of their receiver mount or maybe the screws were just too long?