mudhen

I have heard of this method; Blacken the barrel connection area with a lighter and put the barrel in and then take out. You should see the area where the barrel is binding. Lightly take the Dremel to that area, and repeat the process until there is no more bind. I would use a medium grit sanding drum or small diamond grinder. Plumbers pipe sand paper might work ok too. I have been a big Dremel fan for 20+ years. Owning one is almost mandatory for gun owners! mudhen - CA

Rain, rain, go away, come again during duck season... mudhen - CA

I have been taking a Dremel tool to all of my guns over the years. A little buff here and there can save time and $$$. Just spent a few hours working on a BPS. mudhen - CA

I bet a few million dead deer in states like Iowa would disagree that 'birdshot' barrels are for wingshooting only mudhen - CA

Plastic. Tap them out from the inside. Many, many, folks put bases on smoothbore guns for a variety of reasons; turkey hunting optics being one, optics for shooting Fosters-style slugs being another. Btw - what is a birdshot barrel?... mudhen - CA

None that I can see. The glue seems to stay on the crimp. The glue dries pretty thin. Nitro does something like it, so I presume it's ok. Some of my XR's lose so much buffer in the box that they really seem loose and pattern poorly, especially #5's. I have also seen some clumps of melted buffer at the crimp end. Not so good I think... mudhen - CA

Yep, that was poor advice on Benelli's part. Maybe the office gals don't know about Winchester's problems. I doubt they care. Most manufacturer's don't/can't take the time the be versed in every aspect of every product ever made. The shims indeed factually correct many drop and cast issues. Some shooters subscribe to the 'fit' theory with shims. Some who actually test their firearms subscribe to the 'POA/POI' theory. Perhaps your barrel was too far out of spec for the shims to correct the problem or maybe your hold is/was condusive to that particular POI. As to the class part, I just consider the source of the original post when I offer my replies. I wish I could turn 18 again, but that was over 20 years and 50,000 rounds through a dozen or so Benellis ago... Good luck on your search for the perfect gun... mudhen - CA

Hmmm... Let me get this straight. Winchester fails to properly seal their Extended Range shells and this causes the magazine follower to jam. You somehow equate this to a Benelli customer service problem and come on here to bash Benelli's customer service and quality control. Well, the way I see it, you are a complete idiot. The mag tube is finished in that manner on every Benelli firearm I have ever owned (12), and on every Benelli firearm I have ever handled or assembled (100's). Without specific knowledge, I presume the mag tube is finished in that manner on purpose as the slight texture tends to hold lubricant longer than a perfectly smooth finish. Or perhaps a smooth finish on the mag tube is simply not required for the gun to function. As you stated yourself, but for the buffer leak, the mag tube would have worked fine. Now this is just the way I see it and in no way do I imply that anyone else has to view it my way. What did Winchester say when you called to complain about the poly-ball buffer leaking? This has been a problem with Winchester XR's for several years now and it is well known that you have to seal the crimps with wax or glue. My choice is Elmer's white waterproof glue. I am sealing four boxes as we speak as I too had the same problem with many mag tubes jamming up with buffer. But unlike you, I did not post up and flame Benelli and Browning, I just bought a $.99 bottle of glue and fixed Winchester's defective shells. That's what adults tend to do when facing problem issues. I eagerly await your undoubtedly brilliant reply... mudhen - CA

Seems like the JH likes XR #6's and the Rhino likes both XR #5's & #6's. They are very similar, but yes, I think the JH is a slightly better tube for XR #6's. Both tubes will travel with me in the turkey fields... mudhen - CA

Yes, you got the right pad. Mine was minus the screws too. Fits the SBE II Comfortech stock just fine. M2 as well. Crappy idea though and I doubt the adapter will last long. Here is what you do. Put the adapter in first. Angled edges facing in. Run screws though the holes in the pad. Try to line up one screw into one of the holes on the adapter. Tighten up a bit until you can get the second screw started in the second hole in the adapter. Tighten both accordingly until the pad is snug. Don't over tighten or you may break the adapter. I will use this one and then demand a new one when (if) Sims makes a slip in style. Using this adapter sort of defeats the purpose of the Gel Tek pad in that it is not easily removable for cleaning or water removal. My advice for anyone is to stick with the factory Gel Pad or biatch at Sims until they make a better pad. mudhen - CA

I'd shoot a Kicks .660 and 3" Win XR's #6. All the rest is up to you and testing the combo... mudhen - CA

It belongs to the guy taking the picture. That one was 26#. mudhen - CA

Rain, rain, rain.... 21#, 8" beard, 1" spurs; Posted this one already, Sonoma County, CA; mudhen - CA

Doing my part to save the grapes... 21#, 1" spurs, 8" beard. The Jellyhead & Win XR's pretty much did all the work. mudhen - CA

Yep, 2 oz in the 3.5" XR's. 234 hits in the 10" circle for about 51%. I have hand counted several XR #6's and get around 226-230 per oz. I was impressed with the JH over the weekend... mudhen - CA

No offense, but it's likely how you hold the gun. I've tested many SBE II's from a rest and none are 5" low with the A shim. You could have a bad barrel, it is possible, so maybe call Benelli CS or have a gunsmith boresight the gun (yes, you can roughly boresight a shotgun, not perfectly, but pretty good). mudhen - CA

I'd try the C. My latest SBE II came with the B out of the box. mudhen - CA

Yep. The target above has 51 in the red. The choke is a slammer in the field too, photos to follow... mudhen - CA

I found this one: http://Go****Yourself.com I think someone has their manties in a bunch Maybe try www.manties.net for a better fit mudhen - CA

I'm a big fan of Rhino choke tubes, but the Jellyhead .660 ain't bad either. The JH seems a bit more dense in the center. I've never had 51 hits in the 3" circle with the SBE II. 36 yards with Win XR #6's... mudhen - CA

Aim low and right 50 yards? I'd buy a good turkey call and learn to call better Do what Tucker said. Mess with the drop and cast kit. I had to grind down the A and add it to the C to get the pattern to come down. I use the B for turks and aim at the feather line so the pattern zips right into the head. Mine shoots maybe 2-3 inches to the left, no real need to change the cast. I just aim a fraction to the right mudhen - CA

I tested the Limbsaver for the SBE II tonight. I think it feels the same as the Benelli Gel-Pad that came with the gun. If I had to describe it, I'd say the pressure feels more evenly distributed with the LS, but the felt recoil is about the same. Not a total waste of $32, but I would not buy one again... mudhen - CA

I'm going to guess the Superwaterfowl Trulock is some sort of specialized choke tube for large non-toxic shot. Sounds like a spring snow goose choke to me. Trulocks normally run $39-$49. The Benelli Trulocks are around $70 at full retail. .050 ends up being a .670 or so, and this is tighter than their turkey chokes. A regular .670 shot with BBB's can bulge and damage the choke tube and barrel. Terror Tubes has had some problems with BBB's and .655's bulging. Just a guess, anyone who cares can call George... mudhen - CA

Been shooting Benellis since 1991 with no complaints. mudhen - CA

You could put your eye out with the Red Ryder... Actually, the M2000 has the fewest problems of any Benelli USA firearm according to our regional B-USA rep. Don't know what to think of that tidbit...don't really care...don't like the gun much...prefer to shoot something I like better...could drive a Hyundai...prefer not to... mudhen - CA