truckcop

The one I have is a 26". You probably want it longer if you're serious about trap.

What is the current barrel on it? Rifle sights, ghost ring? I have a field barrel w/vent rib take-off but not sure of the length. Maybe 26 - 28. I'll have to check it. I use a 21" for skeet and pheasants. It works for me except it pisses the folks off around me since it's so loud.

OK, I see that I have been completely unhelpful since you obviously already have the stock off the gun and the sling plate still won't come out? I'm going to shut up now.

A post on another site says you take the trigger group out of the receiver and spin the stock off. I can't vouch for that since the M4 is obviously different from the M1. Here's the post: Benelli M4 stock and trigger group removal tips and tricks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've seen at least one incorrect guidance for how to remove the stock on a Benelli M4 11707 (pistol grip full polymer stock), and once I did it myself and put it back, I learned a trick which is very important if you want to get your trigger group back in! Sharing to help others avoid wasted time and frustration.... Removing the Benelli M4 / USMC M1014 stock Friends, this was designed for the USMC for battle field use. No tools are required. IGNORE the advice to use a screwdriver on the buttplate... that's not the way to do it, unless you want to disassemble the stock itself for other reasons. Disassemble the weapon, removing the front nut, barrel, bolt group, and trigger group. Once this is done, you can simply UNSCREW the stock from the receiver. That's right: grab the stock with one hand, grab the receiver with the other, and twist away. The stock, through a clever internal screw arrangement, actually threads onto the recoil spring tube which is very tightly mounted to the receiver frame. All the stocks for the M4 / M1014 work this way: standard straight sporting stock, pistol grip full stock, and pistol grip skeletonized collapsible stocks. I think the collapsibles have a button you must keep depressed while trying to rotate them off. Lefty loosy, righty tighty, looking from the butt end; that is, counterclockwise to remove, clockwise to tighten. It is difficult to get started the way it's tightened on at the factory, so don't give up; just torque harder until you get it started. Replacing the stock and how you can make it impossible to replace your trigger group! The tolerances on the M4 are very tight and precise. When you screw on the stock, get it to the right "tightness", and then be certain that the cavity in the pistol grip which accomodates the trigger group is in perfect alignment with the corresponding area on the receiver! I neglected to pay close enough attention my first time out, and I was just a tiny, tad off. I could NOT for the life of me get that trigger group posterior "nub" or "tang" to seat in its little pocket in the receiver frame. The pistol grip rubber was interfering! Once I tweaked my positioning of the stock by giving it a little adjusting twise (a very small amount of change), voila, it dropped right back into place, no problem. I guess we should expect this from a gun made to such close, precise tolerances. Hope this helps someone out there. Givin' back. Cheers! Be safe!

Unscrew the nut on the end of the recoil spring tube and then pull the stock off. It will just fall out. At least that's the way it works on my M1's.

There have been folks that have cut down their synthetic stocks but it was quite involved, including reconstruction of the screw mounts within the stock. You can't just cut it off and mount the pad. Have you done a Gunbroker or Google search? You might find something that works. Here's a used one at Cabelas: http://www.cabelas.com/gun-inventory---hazelwood---european-sg---1804309-bmy-haz.shtml They used to make a youth model Nova 20 ga. also. Don't know if they still do but you can probably find one of them used as well.

I occasionally had light load problems with some of my M1's. I installed a SureCycle recoil spring/tube in one and never had the problem again. I now have them in all my M1's. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1422/Product/SURE_CYCLE Big Daddy, I'll gladly take that piece of junk off your hands. I have 5 of the POJ's and wouldn't trade them for any other semi-auto, including Benelli M2's or any of the other newer B's. I've put untold thousands of rounds through two of them in skeet, pheasant hunts, and practical matches and NOTHING has even broken on either of them. I got the others for back-up but have never needed them. I have an older SBE that I used to take on pheasant hunts but it hasn't been shot in the last 5 years. As for recoil, it's a light gun that's recoil operated. It's going to kick more than a gas operated system. It that's a deal breaker, get a gas gun.

I'm assuming you do not have a side saddle shell carrier mounted to the receiver. Sometimes, if that is installed too tightly, it can bind the mechanism, causing various failures. Since you say you are new to Benelli, first of all understand that just operating the bolt does not release a shell from the magazine as some other shotguns function. The carrier latch must be released either manually, by pushing up on the drop lever, or pulling the trigger, which performs the same function on a properly functioning gun. If you press the drop lever manually and a shell feeds out of the magazine onto the carrier, but it doesn't do that when you press the trigger, then something is wrong with the fire control mechanism. There's a tab on the drop lever that rides on top of the hammer spring cap. When the trigger is pulled and the hammer is released, the hammer spring cap pushes up on the tab of the drop lever which then releases the carrier latch, dropping a shell out of the magazine, just like it does when you push the drop lever manually. I suppose it's possible that the tab on the drop lever may have broken off. That would allow the mechanism to operate manually but not when you press the trigger. With dummy rounds loaded in the magazine (I always use dummies for function checks, never a live round), press the trigger. A shell should be released from the magazine onto the carrier. If not, I would remove the trigger group from the receiver and inspect to see whether there is a tab on the drop lever that points to the left and rides on top of the hammer spring cap. That would be my first stop. If all is well there, then something else is going on.

If all you did was take the old barrel off and put a new barrel on, that shouldn't have had any effect on feeding shells out of the magazine. Have you put the old barrel back on to see if it still has the problem? Sounds like a problem in the fire control mechanism. Has it been removed or taken apart since it last worked properly?

This has prompted me to contact Mesa with the pics and find out if they have corrected the problem, or at least comment on it. Will keep you advised.

By comparison, here's the old standard, the Side Saddle. Much better fit. Backing plate is flush against the side of the receiver Hope this helps. I made the offer somewhere else - I'll sell you a 6 round and a 4 round Mesa cheap! ===

More pics - rear view:

If you read it on Brownell's website it was my review. I may have posted the same info somewhere else but I don't remember. Anyway: Here are some pics of the Mesa. As you can see, the contour of the plate doesn't match the contour of the shotgun receiver. The plate hits along the top and bottom portions and doesn't allow it to come flush with the side of the receiver. The Mesa comes with a rubber backing that goes between the plate and the flat side of the receiver but the plate isn't able to get close enough to the receiver for that to touch.

It was probably my review on the fit for my M1, which is also an older HK import. I'll try to put some pics together this weekend to try and better demonstrate the problem I had.

Seriously guys, check the original post date. 2003?? And he hasn't posted to the forum since then.

Uhh, yeah. (SBS)

Thank you. I think they call it the Port Malabar Gun Club, other side of the state.

Oh yeah, and girls with guns:

But we also like: Breaking clays Shot strings:

Yes we do:

Yes it is. There was a guy that used to make aftermarket one-piece plugs out of aluminum bar-stock. He sold them on ebay, gunbroker, etc., but I don't know if he still does. I got mine 9 - 10 years ago. Original SBE/Aftermarket Version - you can probably guess which is which:

They made a practical shooting version that had a muzzle break installed but that's the only thing I can think of. Since practical matches include slug shots, I'm sure it's GTG, assuming what you have is that practical shooting version.

There have been a number of threads on this particular malfunction, including myself having the same problem. After it happened a few times in a practical match, I examined the bolt closely after the malfunction and found that the bolt head was not rotating fully after going forward, causing it to be out of battery ever so slightly. Others have had similar issues. I fixed my problem by replacing the old blued bolt head with a newer chrome plated one. The malfunctions ceased. Others replaced the recoil spring with similar results.

You'll notice I didn't say anything about killing a deer. I hunt too. I quoted the manner in which you did it and commented on that. Yes, when I'm duck, pheasant, or quail hunting, I will also shoot a deer. But I will reload my gun with the appropriate ammo to do it for a clean kill, rather than turning it into "swiss cheese". That's why I carry buckshot or slugs as a backup for just such occasions, whatever is appropriate/legal for the location. There are still ethical considerations for some of us who hunt. I guess I just grew up in a different era. Try out #4 in the list linked here: http://www.boone-crockett.org/huntingEthics/ethics_fairchase.asp?area=huntingEthics

This is the kind of crap that just gives the anti-hunters more ammo to use against hunters and makes hunters look like a bunch of goobers.