truckcop

You don't want to end up being this guy:

Good decision.

My guess is that the OP was concerned about residue (unburned powder, "gases", etc) from firing the gun and the ejecting shell would find its way into the magazine easier due to the hole in the follower. At least that's how I read the question. mysbeII, would you care to elaborate? We really would like to help your understanding.

What "gases" are you talking about? Air? The magazine tube isn't a sealed container. Regardless, the follower is pressed forward into the magazine when you load it up. A hole in the follower isn't going to make any difference in what can get into the magazine tube. What are you concerned about?

Have used both (and others). DMW: It's cheap. Easy to install. I didn't like it. Its operation wasn't positive enough, at least for me. It's held in place by the back of the forearm. Didn't like that. GGG: Expensive. Somewhat harder to install. I like it. Most of my B's have them now. Positive operation. Large pad, easy to manipulate. The button/pad interface is machined so it's not going to easily come undone. There are others. I have one similar to the GGG but about half the price. Less substantial button/pad interface but no problems as yet. (TAC2, if you're interested.) Nordic, haven't tried yet but would like to.

My educated guess is that if you don't know if you have a SBS then you don't have a SBS.

M2 field version is not d&t'd. I use a 21" M1 for skeet, sporting clays, SD pheasants, N. FL ducks, quail, and the occasional 3-gun match. That's why they make interchangable chokes. I think the 21" is the perfect length, but that's just me. I just got a 21" M2 but haven't gotten it outside yet. If you got the tactical M2 and added a rail/optic for off bird season, taking it off for birds, you would be taking off/putting back on the rail and rear ghost ring time and again. Since the receiver is aluminum, you run the risk of stripping the receiver threads in the process, creating a mess for you.

Now that there's funny! The website edited *****-foot? I wonder if it will edit this: ***** cat, ***** cat, where have you been?I've been down to London to visit the Queen

First, as mentioned above, field strip it and lube it up. While it's stripped, inspect the bolt carrier assembly and make sure there's a firing pin installed. (as an agency armorer prior to retiring, I've seen NIB guns come in with all sorts of missing parts) If this is the first time you're playing with a semi-auto shotgun, make sure that when you're operating it you don't *****-foot around with it. Let the recoil spring close the bolt on its own. Don't "ease it forward" for that first shot. It's like a semi-auto handgun and not riding the slide forward. Press the button and let it go. Benellis are the only shotgun that I'm aware of that have their own no-fire syndrome called the "Benelli click". In my experience it happens when the bolt doesn't go forward with enough force to cause the bolt head to rotate completely into battery. It looks fine at a glance but if the bolt head hasn't rotated completely into position the firing pin will not strike the shell's primer when the trigger is pulled. Proper lubrication will also help with this in some cases. If you're not comfortable doing all this on your own, get someone who is familiar with the gun to take a look and even go out to the range with you. The manual-of-arms for the Benelli is a little different than other semis and not being familiar with its operation can cause problems.

Well, first of all, when you pull the trigger with shells in the magazine, another shell will be released onto the carrier ready to be lifted up and into the chamber when the bolt cycles after firing. That's what it's supposed to do. Otherwise, did you just stop after that first trigger pull or did you carry on? If you carried on, did the gun fire and otherwise operate properly? Or did it continue to fail to fire? More info needed.

NO, do not Loctite the choke. BAD idea! Take it out, clean it up, including the threads, put a dab of anti-seize compound on the threads, then use the choke tool to tighten it up.

And to all of it I say, so what? The only way to objectively find out which guns shoots faster is to rig up a mechanical/electronic/whatever device that can be adjusted to find out the physical speed limitations of each gun. But again, to what end? What practical use? "X" can shoot a Benelli faster than "Y" shoots a Winchester so the Benelli must be able to shoot faster? Who cares? I'd be impressed if they could shoot 10-12-whatever seperate targets in that same time. Just aiming it downrange and pulling the trigger as fast as humanly possible. Big deal. More important; reliability, ability to shoot different loads, longevity, ease of use. In my 60 years I've had Remington, Winchester, Mossberg, Browning and Benelli semi-autos. I've still got my Brownings and Benellis. I don't still got those others. My experience. Yours may vary.

I think he's probably being facetious. Just a guess. Probably should have come with:

Here's most of what I've got. The two on the left are for a smaller diameter magazine tube. The two on the right are for the larger diameter mag tube. The one on the far right has been modified in the area of the barrel lug to take a later version, longer lugged barrel. Since they were all made for a short barrel lug, the difference you can see is the rear cut-out and the size and spacing of the round holes. The one I referenced on GunBroker looks like the ones on the right so it probably won't fit your gun since it's probably made for a larger diameter mag tube. Based on your description of your shotgun, you want a forearm that looks like the two on the left. Short lug, smaller diameter mag tube. That's all I got. Good luck.

Never seen such.

Negative. A 20 ga. M1 receiver is nowhere near the same as the 12 ga. M1 except in looks. A 12 ga. stock will not fit a 20. I can't think of anything on a 12 that will fit the 20.

Comparing it to a few of mine, it looks like it's for a short lug with the larger diameter mag tube.

Birdshot, usually no larger than 7 1/2. Some matches have stages that use slugs as well, mostly for long range steel or short range paper shots.

If, by M4 you mean the Benelli M4 shotgun, any AR sights you stick on the Benelli M4 rail are going to be way too high to work with the front sight.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=294524696

Just FYI, Numrich has them for a price. http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=742030&catid=10307

Hmmm, where did I hear that before?

Try this thread at arfcom: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_18/577565_Trijicon_SRS___First_Impressions__Now_with_110__better_pictures_.html

Sorry, no I don't.

I know we don't do Metric over here in the colonies, but dang, 8.9mm sounds like a purty short barrel to me. I'm not sure that's long enough to thread. Error in translation or typo? Jelly head or tightwad. Hmmm. Another translation issue? Regardless, You might just consider getting an additional threaded barrel more appropriate for trap since it's a longer-range game. There are some folks who do thin-walled threading/chokes here in the states. Perhaps there too but getting it done might be close to the cost of an additional barrel. Or, just wait and shoot clays with the M2 and keep the nova for the house as you intended.