truckcop

Y'a know, I had those nearly exact same words down and then cancelled because the last time I made a comment like that I got jumped all over. For the record, +1.

The Nordic magazine extension has a larger outside diameter than the factory extension. The Nordic clamp is made to fit the Nordic extension and will not work properly with the Benelli factory extended mag.

Prior to all the fuss, not so hard to find. Now. . . well, you're getting the idea. Everything is out of stock, back-ordered & taking no new ones, blah, blah, blah. Like the song says; "you picked a fine time to . . . " I don't see it getting any better in the near future since the current crop of morons (I'm sorry, distinguished lawmakers ) are going to push and push and push making the future uncertain and causing continued panic buying. Now see what you did. You got me all riled up!!!

That's actually the limiter retaining ring. It allows easy removal/replacement of the limiter. The cup-shaped part is the magazine tube plug and is the correct piece to go into the tube as the front magazine spring retainer.

that's the correct piece

Again, what gun? That type of link is used on a number of B's including Super Black Eagle and M4. Before you take any recoil tube off/apart, just disassemble the gun and look in the rear of the receiver at the front of the tube. Is there any evidence of the link coming in contact with the front edge of the tube. Is the plunger all there? It's a concave piece of metal, like a tiny dish. Look at the back of the trigger mechanism while it's out. Any evidence of metal on metal contact where it shouldn't be?

What gun? The part is called the "link". It's basically the pushrod that enters the recoil tube assembly when the gun is fired and pushes the bolt back into battery due to the recoil spring. The first two pictures look like it might be coming into contact with the leading edge of the recoil tube as the bolt moves back, although I can't imagine how unless it's put together wrong somehow. The tip of the link in the third pic is the area that comes in contact with the recoil spring plunger. The shiney wear there is not necessarily anything wrong since that's metal on metal contact under quite a bit of force when firing and recoiling. The plunger is rounded inward and the tip of the link kind of sits down in it. I would inspect the recoil tube and see if anything is amiss there for those other two areas. The link is obviously coming in contact with something and the only place I can think of that would be would be inside or the front edge of the recoil tube.

That'll do it too. The crimp on slugs is different than the crimp on shotshells. 2 & 3/4 inches is the length of the shell prior to crimping. So load slugs in it anyway. So what if you're down 1 to begin with? (leaving out entirely the argument that some will make regarding your choice of ammo for home )

When you do this, make sure there isn't a "plug" in the magazine tube. Stranger things have happened. Back in the day when I got my oldy but goody HK import M1 with the full-length 7 round mag tube, it still had a plug installed limiting the magazine to two rounds.

I've got the Sidearmor quick detach short rail system on mine. It too has the "sidesaddle" but that part is detachable. It is very well built and so far I have had no issues with it.

You might try Numrich. I've bought older model barrels from them before. Wouldn't hurt to call Benelli CS and ask. Otherwise, unless you can find a used one somewhere, you're probably out of luck.

There are actually two of those metal plates. They determine right or left cast. One was already installed in the gun and there's probably a little plastic baggie in the shotgun case that has another metal plate and some plastic shims. First, you need to take a look at the plastic shims that are already sandwiched in between the front of the stock and the rear of the receiver. These shims will help determine how the metal plate was oriented originally. One of those shims determines cast, left or right (SX or DX). The others will have a single letter (A, B, C or Z). This one determines drop and will help you figure out which way the metal plate was oriented. Whatever letter that shim has on it will correspond to the single letter stamped on the metal plate. For example, if the shim has a "B" on it, then you want to orient the metal plate so that there is a B at the top of the plate. Same if it was a A, C or Z. That same letter should be at the top of the metal plate when installed in the stock. You also need to make sure the other plastic shim, SX or ZX, is installed properly oriented so it will correspond to the SX or DX on the metal plate. It will be easier just to tell you how to put the thing back together. Look at the two shims between the stock and the receiver. One has the single letter on it. Slide that over the recoil tube with the letter facing backwards so you can read it. Now put the other shim on. It has SX on one side and DX on the other side. If you're right handed, slide it down onto the top of the other shim with the DX facing backwards. Now slide the stock back on the recoil tube. Now you're ready to orient the metal plate. Orient the metal plate so you have the single letter, A, B, C, or Z of the first shim and the DX of the second shim at the top facing the rear. Slide it over the recoil tube stud and put the nut on and tighten it down. Make sure the ribs inside the stock are inside the cut-outs at the top and bottom of the plate before you tighten it down. If you use or orient the plate in such a way that it doesn't correspond to the letters on the shims, you could end up warping the mounting of the recoil tube in the receiver which is why it's important to make sure that each piece you install goes with the others. These are all the shims and the two metal plates. The metal plates are lettered on both sides. The one plastic shim with two letters is also marked on both sides. As an example. I'm a lefty so I want to be using the pieces with "SX". I'm also using the "B" drop shim. So, first I put down the "B" shim at the back of the receiver with the letter facing the rear. On top of that, I put the "SX" shim with the letters facing the rear. Now I put the stock back on. Now I find the metal stock plate that has a "B SX" on it and I orient those letters to the top and facing the rear and put it back in place inside the stock, add the nut and tighten. Simple, no? Hope this helps.

I use Trulock in many of my SG's and I've been happy with them. And they're only 30 miles up the road from me. Just for grins, I'd try a Cylinder and an Improved Cylinder as well as your Modified. Your combination of shotgun/bore restriction/slug will shoot differently from my gun with the same exact combination. It's the nature of shotguns. That's why you'll find many different answers to your original question and probably why Xtrooper qualified his answer with "usually".

Trulock, Briley, Benelli. All make chokes as well as many others. I'm sure that instant gratification can be fulfilled at BPS tonight. You'll probably find a number of different brands there. You won't go wrong with Benelli or any of the others. Just make sure you get one that is properly threaded for your M4. There are a number of different threadings for Benelli's. http://www.briley.com/benelli12gauge.aspx What choke did your M4 have in it and why do you think you need a different one?

The least restrictive bore is the "cylinder". No constriction. Next is "skeet", then . . . just read this: http://www.trulockchokes.com/faqs.php?osCsid=67b5b4997ad73f9afcd1f5ae7038ea15 Some say improved cylinder, others say modified are the most restrictive you should shoot slugs from. Google choke and slugs together and you'll get answers all over the chart. Some shoot slugs using full chokes. Most would not and nobody recommends shooting them out of more restrictive chokes.

Yes. Go to Benelliusa.com and click on "STORE". Then click on "PARTS". They do sell barrels, stocks and other parts direct although the more popular items are out of stock a lot. I got my standard M4 stock directly from them. A lot of OEM pieces parts, i.e., springs and the like, can be gotten from Brownells and Midway.

Might I suggest a weekend trip to the country. I imagine that there are any number of skeet/trap/sporting clays ranges within a reasonable drive from your location, even if you have to make a whole day or weekend of it. At the very least, you need to get in some practice on shooting/cycling/loading/etc. You don't have to shoot buckshot or whatever you intend to use for your home defense in order to get in some practice with it. Being responsible also includes being competent in running it. In my experience, nothing gets you used to running a shotgun, especially a pump, better than getting some time in on moving aerial targets. We used skeet as a training tool for new recruits before square range expansion took away the skeet fields. Most of 'em couldn't hit diddly but that wasn't the point. The point was to get them used to running the gun. Try it.

Now that there's just funny . An unloaded shotgun that's used strictly for home defense. What you actually have there is a very expensive club. And not a good one at that. Might I suggest a baseball bat or a golf club. One of those will serve you better.

Keep us advised on the progress.

Nope, not normal. If I remember right from my Remington armorer school days (Benelli probably the same - I don't remember that being addressed in armorer school) there's a special staking tool that presses the barrel ring metal in around the top of the pin to retain it. Addendum: yep, I thought I remembered right; the Benelli detent is probably similarly retained http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shotgun-tools/staking-tools/870-detent-staking-punch-prod25277.aspx?ttver=1 You're probably better off taking it to a gunsmith who knows what he/she's doing on this or calling Benelli customer service and sending the barrel in for repair.

If your're set on the tactical 18.5" barrel then go with that. I still recommend the rifle sight version. More than adequate for deer, especially with the latest slugs available. Ghost ring would also be suitable for that. Birds, not so much. You picked a lousy time to try and buy something like this. They've dried up at dealers and personal sales are going for stupid money right now. If you've found a tactical/rifle sight/standard stock (non-comfort tech) at a dealer for the regular going rate, I'd get it and work on replacing the stock later. Abel's shows one in stock for $1,099, right under a 21" M2 with the standard comfort tech stock for $1,199. You're not going to do much better, even with shipping (OOPs, my bad - Abels ships for FREE) and transfer fees. You might better hurry. A lot of other folks probably just clicked on that link too. http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=9935_13769_6057_6086&sort=2a&filter_id_caliber=&instock=1

You resurrect a thread in which the last post was nearly 5 years ago and wonder if the "problem" has been addressed. I submit to you that under those circumstances there is no problem. But let me try another approach. I have 3 Benellis that have the sling attachment to which you refer. Each one gets plenty of use in the field but one in particular has had particularly hard use in hunting using a sling and the attachment, while it does come in contact with the barrel, does not do so in a way that causes damage to the finish of the barrel. Here's a pic of the area in question. This gun is over 20 years old. If you get a magnifying glass you might be able to see where the sling mount is coming into contact with the barrel. Like I said. It's not an issue.

What law passes? There is no law. Right now there's just talk of a law, proposals. There are an infinite number of possibilities as to the language of any possible law(s) to be put forth for an actual vote. I suggest that we don't get wrapped around the axle of what might happen until there's something concrete to discuss. Right now the important thing to do is quit wringing our hand about what might happen and contact our elected representatives and let them understand that there would be consequences should they vote for any law that infringes upon our rights as US citizens including the 2nd, 4th and 5th amendments. And I'm not talking violence. I'm talking electoral consequences. Many of the more stupid "proposals" that are out there are clearly unconstitutional and there's no doubt would be struck down by the courts. In the meantime, after whatever finally passes, we can work on removing from office those who would allow such laws to pass.

Nobody knows what it would mean since there isn't any specific proposed language yet.

A pic: various guns/configurations. From the top - M1 Entry, 14" barrel w/rifle sights (this is a custom barrel with XS rifle sights and threaded to accept chokes) M4 M1 - 19 inch barrel with extended choke, ghost ring sights M2 - Field, 21" barrel, trijicon fiber optic sight, extended magazine Another pic: M1, 21" barrel, South Dakota