truckcop

For what purpose? Function check? Practice loading/unloading? I've used all of these. The first ones are closer to live-cartridge weight for dry-fire practice. The second ones are all plastic. Not as long-lasting due to plastic rims chipping. I like the third ones for function check. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/cartridge-dummies/shotgun-dummies-prod31872.aspx http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/cartridge-dummies/saf-t-trainers-prod9923.aspx http://www.stactionpro.com/12-gauge-action-trainer-p-8.html?zenid=eba221e07db29f7c501266b021f40287

. . . and shoot it!!! Or sell it to someone who will!!!!

Actually, looking more closely at your photograph, I don't see a problem. The locking head appears to have rotated properly into position based on the position of the extractor relative to the Benelli engraving on the bolt. If you're looking to see the bolt itself fully forward in the ejection port and not being able to see the locking head, you won't get that. Your pic is inconclusive but if yours looks like this then you have no problem. The bolt is fully forward and the locking head has rotated into proper position. The only way you'll get it farther forward is to take the barrel off. But that makes shooting more difficult. Alright. Who said "CLEAN YOUR GUN"? I heard that. MYOB:rolleyes:

OK then. (I'm assuming from your initial description that you did not have this problem prior to disassembling the gun) My next thought would be to make sure the barrel was reattached to the receiver with the forend washers in place in the forend and behind the barrel ring and the barrel is fully seated with the magazine cap tight. Any misalignment between the locking head and the locking recess on the barrel extension could cause this problem.

First question I always ask for this: Are you riding(easing) the bolt forward or are you letting it go under its own power. If you're riding it forward, stop doing that and just hit the release button and let'r rip. The locking head needs that forward inerta to help it rotate fully into locking position. (at this point, most folks say they're riding the bolt forward - they try the other way and voila, problem solved) Missing O-ring should't have an effect on this, although you should go ahead and get a replacement.

I doubt that there are 10 folks out here who have that configuration and can reply to the original inquiry with any validity. I know a lot of folks who own and shoot 20 ga. M1's and 2's (including myself ) but I don't know anyone who has a rifled barrel version.

But, but, but . . . he called them. And they said they didn't care. And a bud brought one home on the plane.

10-4. Hope you're able to find someone to assist.

There's a reason Sidearmor has this notice on their website: We cannot ship any rifle or shotgun mounts to other countries other than the US due to ITAR regulations! Any US citizen is subject to those regulations. I doubt that you'll find anyone willing to violate the INTERNATIONAL TRAFFIC IN ARMS REGULATIONS. Most of us here have an aversion to federal prison time. I hope!

Yes, you "can" have GR sights installed. It will take some gunsmithing and some of the sights can be expensive. Just replacing the barrel won't do it. The rear sight is installed on the receiver. Google "shotgun ghost ring" and you'll find a number of possibilities. Other option is go with a side saddle that doesn't have an integral rail.

Remove the old tube

Later guns came with choked barrels. If it has GR sights, it would be a "tactical" model, although there's not much difference between field and tactical guns. Field guns came with vent rib barrels and a buttstock that had a standard sling stud on the bottom rather than the sling plate that went through the middle of the stock and helped hold it on. Field guns didn't come with extended mag tubes or GR sights. Mechanically, they are identical.

If you did everything up to that part, there's nothing else holding the locking head in. The firing pin retaining pin on the left holds the firing pin in, which holds the locking head retaining pin in (short round thing with the hole in the bottom on the right, under the locking head), which holds the locking head and inerta spring in.

There's a pin at the back of the bolt that holds the firing pin in. Pull that pin out. Remove the firing pin. Protruding from the top in the front part of the bolt is the locking head pin. Turn the bolt upside down and that pin will come out. Now the locking head will come out along with the spring.

Yep, descriptions in 1 and 2, with Elmer Fudd the Hunter represented as a visual reference.

Not necessarily. It depends on how old your gun is: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/29184-Difference-between-early-and-later-m1-forends-Will-later-models-fir-HK-m1S90 The earlier M1's had a different mag tube diameter than some of the newer versions. A M2 forend will fit some of the newer M1's. Not the earlier generations.

I use Fiocchi Crushers or Winchester SuperX Heavy Game loads. No issues with shotgun function. Got my last 4 cases of Crushers from Abel Ammo. I usually get the Winchester from WalMart.

Your shotgun is NOTHING like a Glock in terms of how it functions, other than you pull the trigger and it goes bang. The hammer is what is under pressure when cocked and goes forward to hit the firing pin when the trigger is pulled. There is no internal drop-safety on most shotguns like there is on most handguns. It is generally not a good idea to keep a shell in the chamber of a shotgun that's just sitting around.

People have taken leave of their senses. Also on GB, a threaded OEM Glock barrel just went for $800. Six months ago I got 4 of them for $189 apiece.

The factory tube is probably thinner material and has a slightly smaller diameter than the Nordic. The factory clamp is just a couple of pieces of stamped steel formed to fit the tube/barrel. The Nordic is a bit more substantial. I've been shooting one of my M1's with the full-length tube since the early 90's. I've got Benelli extensions of varying lengths on 4 others. I've never ever had an issue with any of the factory extensions or clamps. I don't know anyone else who has. Top- M1/factory extension Bottom- M2/Nordic

I've got both. Benelli on M1's. Nordic on a M2. They both work equally well. Quality is comparable. Never had issues with either.

They actually come out easily. A drop of oil in the hole and they'll just push through. It is rubber(or some chemically made version thereof), after all. Putting them back in will kind of bugger up the edges of the holes though.

Info/pics here: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/31598-Benelli-M4-Recoil-Pad?p=174648#post174648 Here's a pic of the holes. They're already there. Stick a medium phillips head in. You have to engage the screw head by feel but they're about an inch inside. Don't try to take the screws out of the pad. Just unscrew them and the pad starts coming off.

They're screwed on. You should find two small holes in the top and bottom of the rear of the recoil pad. Phillips head screws. Put a dab of oil or vaseline on the tip of the screwdriver to get it in the small hole. Unless you're changing the pad, no reason to take it off since the stock comes off without taking the pad off, unlike M2, M1, etc. If you do it too much you run the risk of blowing out the screw holes in the stock since it's plastic and easily overtorqued.

Any good gun lube will work. I use Slip 2000 EWL or TW25B. But that's just me.