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truckcop

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Everything posted by truckcop

  1. With such an open-ended question you're likely to get as many different answers as there are actual spotting scopes. You've got to ask yourself a number of questions in order to narrow down the possibilities: What do I need a spotting scope for? Or, asked another way, what level of quality do I really need? Identifying 223 hits @ 200 yards? Or checking 308's at 1000? Looking at birds in the back yard? Scoping for Bighorns on the next rocky ridge? How much do I have to spend? $250? $1000? $4000. How much an I really going to use it? Every weekend? Once a month? Once a year? I could tell you that I'm happy with my old mid-range KOWA. I could also tell you I'm ecstatic with my new higher-end Swarovski. But you're probably going to be using one differently than me. Lots of variables. I'd do a whole lot of interweb searching and narrow down the possibilities that fit within your needs & budget.
  2. While it's always nice to have guns for specific tasks, your M2T will break clay birds as well as any other shotguns. Barrel length is a factor for some people only in terms of "pointability" of the gun. A few inches difference in length isn't going to make a real difference in terms of pattern size, shot velocity or any other skeet related factor. I've shot hundreds of skeet clays with my 14 inch M1 entry gun. My primary 12 ga. clays (and just about everything else) gun is a M1 with a 21 inch barrel. The right combination of ammunition and choke selection will have more of an effect on your scores. If you've got the cash, go buy another M2. Or a used M1 field. IF you can find a field barrel for your M2, you'll probably pay half of what you'd pay for a good used M1 or M2. If you really want to go all out, get a Super Sport. It could be that you'll really catch the bug and pretty soon you'll have a safe full of specific-duty guns.
  3. Can't say. Don't have one of those. You asked about other. You got a couple of other choices. You say you want ability to upgrade to quick release and switch platforms. I know mine can do both. Can the Specter Gear? It looks to be just fine for what it is. A specific platform sling.
  4. I've been happy with my Gear Sector slings. Numerous quick-change adapters that will mate with various mounts such as HK-style hooks for use on my SG's to QD push buttons on my rifles. Easy to change from gun to gun.
  5. Personally I prefer the stock paddle-shaped handle. I've tried the fat rounds, an hour-glass shape and others but just didn't care for them that much. They didn't provide me with any advantages in function over the paddle-style. My oldest M1 had a skinny round handle that I didn't care much for. I originally changed that out to a fat round handle but ultimately changed the bolt out to one that would accept the non-rotating paddle style. I use my guns for sporting purposes, i.e., pheasants, skeet, 3-gun as well as potential personal defense. The OEM handle works just fine for me.
  6. During a Benelli armorer's course we were advised that doing so places additional stress on the trigger pin and the bushing that goes through the hammer that can cause unnecessary wear and in some cases has resulted in broken trigger pins or failure of the hammer/trigger interface. That's why I don't do it and advise others not to. But that's just me.
  7. Yes, works on SBE. Yes, 20 ga. receiver and carrier narrower. Already begging him for a 20 ga. version. No response yet.
  8. Time for a second SuperNova. Unless you find a used one somewhere, a new barrel will probably cost you more than half the price of a whole new gun. You can probably pick up a good used SN field gun for what you'd pay just for a new barrel.
  9. If you're cocking the hammer while doing this, quit doing it that way. Take the trigger mechanism out and look the interface between the trigger and hammer and how they work together. When the hammer is cocked and held in place by the mating surfaces on the hammer and the trigger, when the safety is on, it will not release the hammer. When the safety is off, the trigger is free to move and release the hammer. When the gun cycles, the rearward movement of the bolt brings the hammer back to be captured by the disconnector. When you release the trigger the disconnector releases the hammer and the hammer is re-captured by the trigger "sear". If you put the safety on when the hammer has been released and try to re-cock the hammer, the trigger is held tight by the safety button and the hammer doesn't want to slide back over the trigger mechanism. Yes, you can force it back. And put additional stress on the trigger and hammer pins by doing so. Once it has been cocked the bolt should move back and forth with ease even with the safety on since you are no longer overcoming that force necessary to force the hammer into position on the trigger. If the hammer is cocked and the bolt isn't moving easily to the rear with the safety on, that's something altogether different. Bottom line: Don't cock the hammer with the safety on.
  10. Not so sure how Bill would feel about the school's name being associated with that thing.
  11. First, confirm it's the gun and not you. Shoot it off your other shoulder. Let a couple of others shoot it. POI still off? Call your buddy Rob. Let him make it good.
  12. I've got guns of each persuasion and to be honest, I don't really notice a difference in felt recoil between standard and comfortech stocks. I do note a big difference between some gas guns (I have an old Browning B80) and those that are recoil operated, although if I had a shoulder injury that might be aggravated by shooting a shotgun I'd seriously consider learning to shoot off my other shoulder regardless of the type of gun.
  13. A pump isn't like some semi-autos that need to be "broken in" with higher powered stuff before it will shoot some of the lower powered stuff. A pump should be good to go right out of the box with anything you decide to feed it. They'll usually smooth-out after repeated use but that's about it.
  14. That's a Nordic magazine extension and barrel clamp. If you don't need that short rail section, suggest you replace it with this : http://nordiccomp.com/retail/shop/barrel-clamps/qda-for-nordic-components-barrel-clamps/ The factory part will not fit that and I doubt the GGG will either.
  15. There are a couple of different versions. Are you talking about a field gun with a sling swivel stud on the front? Or the "tactical" versions, which have a swivel ring designed for the HK-style hook, attached to the forend cap and held on by a snap-ring. There are two versions of the forend cap. One is for the original full-length, one-piece extended magazine tube that is only threaded for the portion of the magazine tube in front of the barrel ring. The other is for the standard-length magazine tube and is threaded on both ends; towards the rear for securing the barrel and toward the front for adding the extensions. Numrich lists all those parts as in-stock.
  16. The stock is the same. Shims and locking plate give it the L or R cast. The gun should come with the shims/plate for the necessary adjustments which are spelled out in the manual. http://www.benelliusa.com/sites/default/files/originals/product-manuals/m2.pdf The only difference on the Comfortech is the recoil pads which are right/left specific. Replacements are a little difficult to find right now but in all honesty, you'll never feel the difference. I'm a lefty. I shot my new compact M2 20 with a righty recoil pad off my left shoulder while pheasant hunting in SD this year and didn't notice any difference in the feel of the gun when shooting it versus my M2 12 which has a lefty pad on it.
  17. I'm not sure I'd go chopping on a comfortec stock. They're now making "compact" versions of the 12 and 20 gauge M2 with the comfortec stocks. LOP is listed at 13 1/8 inches. I have a 20 ga. version. The stock itself is about a half inch shorter than the standard version and the recoil pad is very thin. It makes a tremendous difference if you need or prefer the shorter LOP. I suppose they'll eventually start making just the stocks available but I haven't seen them listed anywhere yet. If you don't yet have a gun for her yet you might look into one of the new compacts. When she gets bigger and needs a longer stock you can always buy a standard stock to replace the shorter one.
  18. If it's on the internet, it must be true. They can't put anything on the internet that isn't true, right? Actually, you shouldn't have any problems with what you're considering adding.
  19. Well, since this thread went off in this direction, allow me a few cents worth. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone about how the ability to maintain sustained shotgun fire was instrumental in successfully surviving a firefight, OR, how the inability to maintain sustained shotgun fire was a factor in failure to survive a firefight. I am personally aware of numerous firefights involving at least one shotgun and unaware of any that involved a reload. All were resolved within the capacity of the shotgun at hand. That's what caused one state agency I'm familiar with to leave the AR-style carbine and go back to the shotgun as the primary for most operations. Just wonderin'. Yes, training to a level of competency in your manual-of-arms is certainly advisable but outside the realm of games, i.e., 3-gun, etc., the need to actually put it in real-life practice is probably one of the most remote possibilities in personal defense situations. If you've emptied the magazine on a home defense shotgun and that's a factor in your survival or not, you've probably got bigger problems than that. Or you live in Detroit.
  20. I have one that I just took off my M1 but still considering whether to let go of it. Remind me after the first of the year.
  21. Can you 'splain what it is we've got to do again? Wait, what?
  22. I've ordered a couple more to complete my inventory. I'll install one on my M4 and see what happens.
  23. I love it when "experts" make judgements about what a particular firearm will or will not do based on its looks. It's a shotgun for crying out loud. I've shot skeet with my 14" M1 entry gun. With the right choke, it will play any game. It amuses me to see the looks I get when I take my 21" M2 to the skeet, trap and sporting clays range. It does piss some of them off because it's a lot louder than their 30 inch guns shooting target loads. Do I look like I care? BTW, depending on your sporting clays range, a full choke might just be too much for all except for the longest shots. Take two or three with you. Nothing in the rules says you can't change chokes from station to station. If I just go with one, I'll usually put in a modified. But that's just me.
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