truckcop

Probably. The only 1 piece forend that I've ever dealt with for the M4 was the Surefire rail version. As I recall, it was made out of material that flexed so it could be pressed over the pistons when installing or removing it. At least that's what I remember. I sold it. Too wide and just didn't feel good and the gun's heavy enough without hanging a bunch of other stuff all over it. I don't find the two-piece forend to be all that bothersome. If it's really that much of an issue, go with the M1/M2 platform instead, or, better yet, in addition to.

I've had Larue, ADM, ARMS, and most of the rest. If I install a new optic on a gun now I go with Bobro.

You almost answered your own question in that last question. The correct choke to use is the one that works for what you're using it for. Taking the measurements for each different constriction and applying them to anything other than a theoretical exercise doesn't do you any good when sending a pattern downrange towards a real target. The theoretical is a good place to start but you've got to take the gun out and test the patterning of each choke. Skeet is pretty much a known/consistent distance game. I've found that in the guns I use for skeet (M1/M2, 21 inch barrels) the IC choke works best for me. The pattern that my IC chokes throw is open enough for the close shots but tight enough for the longest shots, which really aren't that long when compared to sporting clays or trap. But that's me. Get the gun in front of a pattern board and see what the different chokes do at different distances. Or, shoot a whole round of skeet at Station 1 using different chokes on the short away/approaching targets, then do the same at Station 4 for the long crossers. You'll probably end up with a happy medium that will consistently break them at all stations. For your gun, that may be the cylinder, may be the IC, or may be something else completely.

The gun's a Benelli. It's a Benelli emblem.

If I remember correctly, the wood stock emblems are just a plastic disc with sticky-goo on the back to keep it on. This maybe?: http://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/stock-forend-parts/buttstock-hardware/emblems/grip-emblem-prod17060.aspx

The forcing cone is the area of the barrel immediately in front of the chamber. The barrel extension is the area where the lugs of the locking head rotate to lock up the action. I'd stick with the factory spec recoil spring if you go that route. A lighter spring MAY exacerbate the "click" issue. After dealing with that issue a couple of times with my guns I'm still not certain just exactly WHY the locking head doesn't make that last tiny degree of full rotation. One time, as I noted above, I switched locking heads between guns. The other time, I bought a used chrome-plated locking head off gunbroker to replace the older style blued head. Both times the fix worked. I know WHAT's happening. I just don't know exactly WHY. Not enough recoil spring force (dirty/worn)? Dirty guns? Neither seemed to be the issue in my cases. Differing tolerances in parts? Maybe the issue with mine since switching/replacing parts cured my problems. Ammo? I've had it happen with heavy field loads and light target loads. It's happened with my 12's and my M1 20 ga. Bad karma? Nano-gremlins? Who knows? Read Benelligunny's firing pin/locking head check carefully. That's one way to check it. Another way without taking the bolt assembly apart is to pull the locking head back into the bolt body as if it's in battery and push on the end of the firing pin. It should protrude from the firing pin hole in the head. There's no need to take the retaining pin out. Look closely at the area in the barrel extension where the extractor comes into contact. Unless you've got tiny little fingers the finger-check is probably a no-go.

Google "Benelli click". Tons of stuff out there. Essentially it happens when the bolt goes forward but the locking head doesn't rotate completely into battery. This results in the firing pin not being able to go forward completely when hit by the hammer and the shell not firing. Plenty of possible causes, and many are plausible: weak recoil spring (forget about the spring in the bolt - that doesn't have anything to do with it); dirty gun; low power ammo resulting in a slower bolt return; not getting a good shoulder on the gun (similar to limp-wristing a handgun), are probably the most common things cited. If it has just started with yours I'd check the recoil spring (the one in the butt of the gun - that's the one your gunsmith was talking about). You should be able to take it apart and clean/lube it. It's possible a new spring will fix the problem. Also make sure the gun itself is clean, especially at the barrel extension where the locking head rotates into battery. I once fixed the problem with one of my M1's by switching the locking heads between guns. No further problems. Go figure. There will probably be others who chime in here. It's not an unknown problem on some guns. The one I had the problem with was practically new but yours is obviously broken in. Quick addition: When loading the chamber, make sure you're not riding the bolt forward. That will also cause the locking head to only rotate partially into battery. Let the bolt go forward under the full power of the recoil spring.

They can occasionally be found on fleabay or gunbroker. One on fleabay now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Factory-Benelli-Standard-M4-Shotgun-Stock-NEW-/391053039006?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b0c93d59e They'll also show up in-stock on the Benelli website parts store every blue moon or so. Numrich indictes it has them in stock: http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/980370.htm

Get over it. " . . . tearing itself up . . ." or " . . . acknowledge a problem . . ." Really??

Brownell's. Search AR Trigger. Take your pick. Anything from standard mil-spec parts kits to high-end drop-in modules. Personally, I've gone with several of the drop-ins: Timney, CMC, Wilson. I can't say one of those is better than the others. Satisfied with all of them. I've got more Wilsons (4) but that's just because. None of my AR's have what they came with, even the supposedly better two-stage "national match" versions.

You might try some different ammo to see if that makes a difference. Numerous threads on this site will show you that variations in shell length can affect the capacity of the tube. Additionally, how much length of spring extends out of the front of the tube before installing the mag cap? As I recall, CC uses Wolff springs which may be longer than needed and when compressed may not allow enough room for the expected number of shells in the mag. A bit of trimming may be in order. Again, there have been a number of posts on the site regarding this issue as well.

A picture's worth at least a couple of words. How about showing that for future reference?

Yep, pulling the trigger can accomplish what you're talking about. Same deal on a Remy 870. Pulling the trigger rather than pressing on the action release button will allow you to open the action. The problem with all that is that pulling the trigger also makes the gun go bang. IMHO, it's NEVER a good idea to press the trigger to do anything OTHER than to make the gun go bang. It's funny how our minds go blank sometimes and we do things because that's the way we always did them and doing that thing results in an unexpected event. I can tell you from first-hand experience, pressing the trigger to do something that can be accomplished by doing something else MAY result in the loudest bang you have ever heard in your life. And possibly some life-altering consequences. I was lucky. Only a hole in a training barricade where one did not exist before.

I can't hit the broad side of a barn if I start out with a mounted gun. Grew up on doves and quail. A mounted gun throws my timing off now on skeet and SC's.

I wouldn't worry about it. For those games a mid bead is useless. Front bead is nice but, again, not really necessary since focus is on the target, not the sights. If you just have to have it I imagine Benelli would send you one.

Is there a hole there or does it look like it's broken off? Did you actually use it for anything when it was there? I've never found them particularly useful. What do you use the gun for?

Never seen a wood stock version with a snap-on pad. (but I haven't seen every one either) Do a little careful probing with a small Phillips head screwdriver an inch or so near the top and bottom on the centerline of the pad and you may find the holes. I've always seen small holes there but I've also seen little slits that are almost impossible to see depending on the pad material. If you find them the pads are usually held on by a Phillips head screw. Put a little Vaseline or other lubrication on the end of a larger Phillips head driver to take them out. The usually gets you into the pad and on the screw head without buggering up the pad.

^^^ This. Notwithstanding that, I haven't felt the need to install one on my M4. I have them on all my other B's except for my SBE. There is a slight difference between the M4 and M1/M2 carrier and I haven't been eager to test it. Plus, the cutout in the leading edge of the M4 carrier is shaped a little differently than the others and I haven't had any thumb-catching issues with it like I did with the others.

Oh boy, this is going to be fun. Everybody hold up while I go make a batch of popcorn. Camaro, just a little teaser: According to the interwebz, the best gun oil is - WD 40 3-in-one Militec Slip Frog Lube M-Pro Rem Oil Hoppe's Break Free Tetra Gun Grease Automatic transmission fluid (name of your choice) Motor Oil Graphite Powder STP Ballistol EEZOX TW-25B Sentry Oh yeah, according to the Interwebz, each of the entries above sucks. _______ is lots better!

You'll have to unscrew the magazine tube from the receiver.

Just now seeing this. Not to sound like a fan-boy (ok, I am), but I've been shooting my old 90's M1 since . . . well, the 90's. I've shot uncountable rounds of skeet, sporting clays, and other such pursuits. It has been to South Dakota for our annual pheasant hunt at least 10 times. Nothing has ever broken since I've had it. In all my time of doing such stuff, I've only seen one Benelli go down due to a parts breakage. A first generation Super Black Eagle went down due to breakage of the link. At that time the SBE link was a cast part that has since been upgraded. I also go to three-gun events and a large percentage of the shooters go with Benelli's, especially the M2 and older M1's. I guess it could have happened but I've never seen one break down. If your daughter's gun is running without any issues, it's probably going to keep running. I can't really think of a spare parts list to include with your travels. I've usually got a spare gun along with me just in case but I've never had to use it due to the main gun going down. I'll shoot it every now and then, just because.

Well, if you've tried all those methods and nothing floats your boat, try going slingless. Except for a standard 2-pointer on my M2 field that allows me to carry my cameras at the same time on our annual pheasant hunt, I don't use a sling on any of my shotguns.

Do you pull the trigger to release the hammer and then put the safety on before putting it up? Then you pull it out, pull the bolt back and it's hard after the first half? But once you've done that once, the bolt moves freely? That's my guess as to what you're experiencing. Take your trigger mechanism out of the receiver and you'll see what's happening. Release the hammer, i.e., pull the trigger, and then re-engage the safety. Now try and cock the hammer all the way back. Watch as the hammer comes into contact with the trigger/sear mechanism and you'll see there's no "give" to the sear, making it hard to cock the hammer all the way back. Once you've cocked the hammer, there's no more resistance at the sear and the bolt can move back and forth freely. Now do the same with the safety disengaged. The trigger/sear can move now that the safety is off and the hammer can be cocked without any resistance at the sear. I don't know if additional stress is put on the hammer or the trigger/sear when cocking it with the safety engaged but I don't operate the bolt while the safety is engaged if the hammer isn't cocked.

The sling attachment points on the tactical guns were originally designed for use with the HK 3-point sling with the HK Hook at the front and a flat hook at the rear for the slotted sling plate: Gear Sector has 2 and 3 point slings that you can customize the attachments for. The Auxiliary Adapter can be used on the rear slotted sling plate on the stock and their HK adapter can be used on the front attachment at the magazine cap. https://www.gearsector.com/browse/category/adapters/auxiliary-adapters/ https://www.gearsector.com/browse/category/adapters/hk-snap-hook-adapters/

I've now run several hundred rounds through the M1/modified BOR RMR mount pictured above. This includes full-house buckshot and slugs as well as heavy birdshot. The mount places the RMR at the perfect height for the right cheek-weld on a standard field stock. No signs of the mount loosening with just the two mounting screws. I'm much happier with this set-up over the previous mount with the RMR/mount attached to a short section of rail.