truckcop

If you don't need QD, why not just go with the standard low aimpoint mount?

Well, I doubt he would sell a charging handle, whatever the weight, that would have an obviously negative effect on the gun's operation. Have you actually shot your gun with the TT handle and had cycling problems when the OEM didn't? Has anyone who replaced their OEM handle with a TT had any such problems? I've shot my older M1's and newer M2's with just about every handle out there using OEM bolts and never had one issue based on that change. In each case, I've always gone back to the OEM flat handle because I like their ergonomics better than the wide round, skinny round, hourglass shaped, titanium, steel, aluminum (yes, at one time, somebody made an aluminum one - don't ask), and whatever anybody else came up with.

Probably because that difference doesn't have any effect on the operation of the gun.

Pictures of everything you have might be helpful. 1000 words, so to speak. Did you get the gun used? It's also possible the wrong extra shims were included when shipped. Or got switched at the dealer.

The higher velocities don't pattern quite as well as the 2.75 standards. Best I've found are the reduced recoil versions. Awesome patterns. No issues cycling in my M1/M2's.

Way back I had fit issues with Sure Cycle and Tac Star. Couldn't advise on finish. I doubt you'll find any aftermarket that matches the factory finish exactly. If it's that important, your best bet is to find a factory extension. There's one on GB right now. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=426799905 You want it bad enough, do the buy now. That way, you know you've got it and it's OEM.

Go with the Federal 13200 buckshot with the flight control wad. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

No. Any of those solutions require removal of the OEM part. Unless you are going to try and drill & tap the OEM button while it's still in the gun. Not a good idea. Actually, a very BAD idea. You're either going to have to replace the OEM with a ready-made piece that's already been d&t'd (GGG, TAC2), OR you're going to have to take the OEM part out, d&t the button for whatever larger button you're going to install, then put it back in (Nordic, Taran, Briley, etc). Removal and replacement of the part is simple with the right tools. I've had the GGG part on two of my older guns for a number of years. One gets a lot of use in 3-gun. Never had an issue. No loosening. No marring of the receiver, although it's a tool and I don't give a rat's patootie about dings, scratches, and the like. Lately, I've put the Nordic round button on my newer guns. I think I like that one a little better.

It needs to be paired up with the drop/cast shims between the stock and the receiver. Take the stock off and any drop/cast shims should be identified with letters. From the Benelli Super Sport Manual: Matching instructions: the drop change kits are identified by letters. To ensure a correct drop always match locking plates and shims that have the same letters, e.g. C - CDX - DX or C - CSX - SX. DX = Right hand SX = Left hand If you have the manual, there's a complete explanation including charts on how to pair up the shims and locking plates. If you don't have the manual, you can download it off Benelli's website.

I'm not a fan of titanium parts period. From the newfangled titanium motocross handlebars back in the 70's (10 times stronger than steel, one tenth the weight!!!) that folded like a pretzel the first time the bike hit the dirt, to the titanium AR firing pin a couple of years back that disintegrated at the tip, punching a hole in a primer, getting stuck and locking it up tighter than Dick's hatband, titanium just doesn't seem worth the price for what you supposedly gain. Yeah, I know. Space travel, aircraft, etc., etc. My half-inch steel M4 charging handle from FFT has been going strong with nary a hiccup for the last couple of years. And I haven't had any difficulties lugging around that extra 7 grams of weight it has vs the TI version.

Go with the M2 compact. You don't need camo finish to hunt. A bazillion turkeys/ducks/pheasants/doves, et. al., have been taken with regular old blued & wood/synthetic stocks without being painted/dipped/etc. I'm not a Vinci/Affinity owner so I have no opinions there. The M1/M2 platforms have worked well for me in every arena I've played with them in.

The most important words in that entire post.

First: Try different ammo. All kinds of different ammo. Then report back. If it's a gun issue, the problem would probably persist regardless of the ammo. If it works with other ammo, well . . . . FWIW, Fiocchi (Crusher) is my ammo of choice for skeet/sporting clays out of my M1/M2's. Works like a charm. Never tried their buckshot out of my M4. For that one I use Federal. LE13200.

I'd call Benelli customer service. The last new gun I got from them had 5, including cylinder. Maybe a couple got "borrowed" at the dealer. Benelli may send you what you didn't get unless you bought it used from someone.

Check your current chokes against these examples: http://www.briley.com/benelli.aspx Yours are probably Crio Sport. Benelli USA website should also provide that info. You can buy OEM directly from Benelli or go to Brownells. Aftermarket I use Briley and Trulock but there are a bunch of others out there.

Kool beanz!

There's another issue to deal with. Whether you can use a M2 forearm on an M1 depends on how old the M1 is. Earlier M1's had a different mag tube diameter than some of the newer versions. A M2 forearm will fit some of the newer M1's. Not the earlier generations. For those you would have to go the M1 forearm modification route. There used to be a whole thread here with pictures, measurements, and everything but for some reason that old link doesn't work any more.

krusader, I ask this only because it has been asked of others before and the answer ended up being the solution to the problem. You advise you recently purchased the gun but don't indicate whether it was new or used. When you took it apart to clean it, did the magazine tube contain an orange/red/other color plastic doohickey about 3 or 4 inches long? If so, did you put that back in the magazine tube when you reassembled the gun? Something like this: http://www.eurooptic.com/standard-magazine-plug-fits-sbe-m1-sbe-ii-m2.aspx

Very few circumstances of shotgunnery call for 3 or 3.5 inch shells as a necessity.

A search of the forum will lead you to a number of discussion threads about varying lengths of shotgun shells, etc. The 2 3/4 length is the length of a fired shell. Different manufacturers use different crimping methods and different methods are used depending on the type of shell within the same manufacturer resulting in different OALs on loaded shells. Does the 5th shell go in most of the way but stop just short? Hardly goes in at all? A number of possibilities. Try a few different makes of shells as a first check.

I've never seen a video on that job. It's simple if you have the right tools. Correct size punch, hammer, roll pin starter punch for re-installing the roll pin, correct size allen wrench for the pad. There's at least one tutorial on this forum on how to do it.

If you're happy with it, keep the VM, buy the Benelli, shoot them both. No law says you can't have more than one. Yet.

Back earlier in this thread I mentioned that the carrier would work on a SBE. I based that answer on the TT website indicating it will fit a SBE. I finally got around to installing the carrier on my SBE. I am going to change my assessment of its ability to function on a SBE. While it will certainly FIT a SBE, I have found that function is another matter. Since the SBE is designed to function with 3.5 inch shells, the loading port and the carrier are longer than the M1/M2/M4's. The TT carrier is shorter than the one on the SBE. When the TT carrier is installed on the SBE, the "angle of attack", so to speak, is different when it engages the shell and lifts it up into the breech area. I had numerous failures to feed a shell into the chamber. I could not get through a full 6-round load without having at least two FTF's. Nothing else was changed and the ammo I used was the same ammo I have been shooting without any feeding issues. I replaced the TT carrier with the OEM carrier and then shot a 100 round sporting clays course without any failures at all. I can only attribute the feeding issues to the differences in the TT carrier vs the OEM carrier. This, by no means, sours me on the TT carrier. I have them installed on 5 other guns (m1/m2's) without any similar issues and they work flawlessly. I don't know if anyone else here has tried one on their SBE. I make this addendum only to chronicle my experience.

Yours, or a cut from somewhere on the web?

Well, assuming you put it right back where you found it at the end of the mag tube on the gun, there's your problem. Pull that spring retainer out. It's a tight fit in the end of the magazine tube and it's designed to keep the spring from shooting your eye out when you take the magazine cap off. If you re-install it in the end of the magazine tube you haven't changed the tube capacity and it doesn't have the ability to move forward into the additional capacity of the extension. Take the retainer out, put your spring back in the tube, screw the Nordic extension back on and you'll be good to go. Unless, that is, you cut the spring too short when you were making your adjustments. Cross that bridge when you come to it.