truckcop

I grew up shooting a Browning A5 from the age of 9. I got my first Benelli in 1991 at the age of 39. It took me about five minutes to figure out the different manual-of-arms for the Benelli. It's second nature now and I've never looked back. You'll get over it.

Dave's Metal Works http://davesmetalworks.com/#

The NOVA safety is in front of the trigger so you're not going to be able to disengage an oversized safety like you can the M2/M4, and others, while getting on the trigger. Regardless, an oversized safety will generally give you a more positive disengagement, especially under stress. Worthwhile? Probably. There used to be a thread here on reversing the safety but it's no longer accessible. As I recall, it's a bit more complicated to remove the safety than doing the M2/etc. I'm not even sure if the safety buttons on a NOVA are compatible with the M2/etc.

For what it's worth, IC is my preferred choke for skeet. Unless you're a professional or ultra-serious shooter it isn't really necessary to spend a pile of money on chokes other than the ones that come with the gun. They'll usually meet your needs.

There is no end cap on that extension. You're actually missing a piece and the piece that's showing on the end of the extension doesn't belong there. That piece is the original magazine spring retainer for a standard-length magazine tube. The mag extension comes with a "cup" rather than a "cap" that is inserted into the extension first and retains the magazine spring. It's the round item below with the small hole in the middle. That's what should be showing at the end of your magazine extension. (forget about the two pieces at the bottom of the picture - more explanation needed for that and isn't relevant) While the spring retainer probably works OK in your tube a problem may arise if you fully load the magazine. That retainer compresses in a manner similar to a split ring to remove it from its designated space. In its current location, pressure from a fully loaded magazine MAY force that retainer out the end of your tube and you'll have a magazine spring go shooting out the end, not to mention the retainer turning into a projectile that could cause you some serious damage it you're looking at it wrong when it happens. If it were mine, I'd try to find the correct part. Numrich and Brownells still list the correct part as available. It's called a "magazine tube plug" or "spring retainer". Part 106 on Brownell's schematic. http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Benelli-U-S-A-/Super-90-M1-Field-sid682.aspx#s15402sid682

I usually just keep an IC screwed in that gun. Of all my B's it gets used the least.

Mostly KO's but also their Reduced Recoil Tactical Home Defense and Classics and whatever else I can find. Shoot them through a couple of M1's and my M4.

12's: Prairie Storm, Golden Pheasant, Fiocchi Crusher & Super Crusher, LE13200(flite control), TruBall Slugs, Brenneke slugs, DDuplex slugs, Winchester AA's 20's: AA Super Sport, Prairie Storm, Golden Pheasant

Unless someone offers one up on GunBroker or Ebay, you're not likely to find one. Some mount maker out there might make a universal shotgun-barrel cantilever mount that you could have mounted to your barrel, but good luck with that. You could probably find a new 870 with a rifled barrel/cantilever scope mount for less than $400, probably not much more than what you'd pay for a Benelli barrel so equipped.

Two experiences, both with Briley. (If I were you, I'd take a look at their website. They have great information regarding threading barrels for chokes) The first one I sent to them was an older 19 inch M1 barrel. Their findings: not enough barrel material at the muzzle to safely thread it, even for their thin-wall choke system. Second one was a SBE barrel. The muzzle had been damaged so the original owner cut it down to 18 1/2 inches. Apparently, the barrel thickness where it had been cut was enough for them to apply their thin-wall system. Works great but you have to use their thin-wall chokes and I doubt they make thin-wall breachers and rifled chokes. Having said all that, Briley is probably the master when it comes to chokes. Generally they won't tell you that they can choke your barrel without physically inspecting it so you'd have to send it to them up front. A little googling will find other folks that do barrel threading for chokes.

Design of the trigger guard, ComforTech stock and different choke system on the II, and one upgraded internal part (the link).

"Hangs up" and "refuses to handle" don't really mean anything. What EXACTLY is it doing (or not doing)? Failures to eject/feed/extract? Sometimes? All the time? Specific manufacturer? All? Does it work with two & three quarters ammo? Need more info.

Can't answer your question but a clue to the lack of responses is in the lack of ANY activity in the Turkey Hunting thread. Perhaps you may get an answer if you post your query under the general Benelli topic. More activity there.

Am in Texas this week. I'll check and see if I still have mine somewhere when I get back next weekend.

Oh, I don't know, maybe the LGS you bought it from? You should have an idea what it's worth because you bought it. Some people think of guns as an "investment" that they can flip and make a bunch of money off of. That may be true of some guns but modern guns won't be "investments" for another hundred years or so, if ever. Right now, it's worth what folks are willing to pay. You can get an idea from GunBroker/etc., but in the final analysis do they actually SELL at the asking price? If you really want to get rid of it, put it on GunBroker with a reserve that you're comfortable with and then see what happens. Or put it on consignment locally. Take it to a local gun show with a high asking price on it. Walk around and you'll see what kind of interest there is in it. You'll get low-ball offers . Haggle. Otherwise, take that thing out and shoot it. A lot.

The issue with the M1 vs M2 is that the biggest outside diameter of the magazine tubes are different in different generation guns. The earliest HK imports had a smaller (or larger, I don't remember which) diameter and the forend for those guns won't fit properly over the M2 mag tube. The later generation HK imports had the same diameter as the M2. The trick is finding the right M1 forend. Then, other modifications have to be made to get it to fit the M2 barrel. The lug on the M2's barrel ring are longer than the ones on the M1 so the forend has to be modified at that point. Also, the M2 barrel has a ring at the rear of the barrel tube that the M1 didn't have. The forend has to be slightly modified there as well. There used to be a whole thread here about all this but it's no longer accessible. Here are some pics that went along with that thread that show some of the differences. Different M1 mag tubes Different M1 Forends

"I know that I could just quit shooting the Kents . . ." Based on everything you've already done to correct the problem, there's your answer right there. Face it; it's a fact of life that some firearms don't mix well with some ammo, no matter what you do to the gun. And there's no rhyme or reason in many cases. I've got one M1 that gobbles up Estate ammo like nobody's business. I've got another M1 that chokes on every other round of the very same ammo. Fiddled with the gun till I'm blue in the face and came to the realization that I need to quit trying to shoot Estate ammo in that gun. Runs like a champ on other ammo. Who knows why? Shotgunnery is a big magical mystery. Why does one shoot a pattern that looks like an ammo advertisement while another identical gun shooting the same ammo throws patterns a goose can fly through? Try a couple of other things: Find a buddy that has a SBEII and give him some of your Kents. See if he has the same problem. Do you buy the ammo by the case? Perhaps you got a bad lot this year. Try a couple of different Kent loads, i.e., 9's instead of 7.5's. If it still works with everything else BUT Kents, again, there's your solution.

What are you looking for? Rails? Lights? Looks? Feel? As noted, Surefire has/had a couple of versions of their forends w/lights. They haven't listed them for a while but you can still find them on ebay and GunBroker. Rails, not so much. Looks, not so much. Freedom Fighter Tactical has a replacement forend but it pretty much looks the same as the OEM. If you don't like the feel you could probably find one of the older M1 versions that aren't quite as sleek-looking but they do feel different. The only problem with that is that you'll have to do some slight mods to get it to fit correctly.

What type of shooting are you doing? If you're shooting moving targets, i.e., birds, clays, etc., and you're "aiming" with the sight, you're doing it wrong. You should be looking at the target and most serious shooters feel that there's no need for the front bead at all. Having said that, there are a number of possibilities for replacement. I used one of these for a while. They're cheap and the magnets hold it on under shooting conditions just fine. They will come off if bumped while walking through brush or around low hanging limbs. I found it to be too bright and distracting. http://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/sights/front-sights/shotgun-fiber-optic-sight-prod9507.aspx I tried a couple of other similar versions but they had the same issues. I settled on the Trijicon Trijidot. The fiber optic is much smaller and doesn't glow like a road flare on the end of the barrel. Quite a bit more expensive but I found it to work for my purposes and isn't as distracting for clays/birds.

Every time I pull the trigger on mine a cylindrical plastic and brass part pops out. I keep having to replace those so I always have several cases of them on hand. Besides those, I've never had to replace any other parts on any of my Benellis.

I'd compare the dimensions of each one in the area where they attach to the stock. The new one may need some trimming somewhere. You could also try softening the new one up in some hot water and installing it. Wrap some tape or something similar to hold it down and remove it after it cools back down. Otherwise, I got nuthin'.

Like the butt pad, the comb is held in place by protrusions in the comb that go into corresponding recesses in the stock. At the front end of the comb, work your fingernails in between the comb and stock. Carefully pull up on the comb and the protrusion at the front of the comb will come out of its recess. Then just lift it off the stock.

Two issues: One, the interface between the trigger guards and the stocks are different. Second, the M2 receiver is tapered above and behind the trigger guard while the M1 isn't. I doubt the two would marry-up very well. L to R: M2 trigger guard, M1 trigger guard, M1 stock

I've never had good luck with strap wrenches to take the tube off. I've never dealt with the Supersport but it must be pretty much the same as the SBE's/M1's/M2's that I've done. The surface of the tube is very smooth and no matter how tight I get the strap it always slips. The first thing you're going to have to do is heat up the area where the tube screws into the receiver. A quick search here will find a number of threads on this topic. You can probably find a video or three on YouTube as well. The original Benelli thread locker is usually quite strong and it takes a good bit of head to loosen it up enough to turn the tube. I replaced a number of OEM tubes with SureCycle tubes so I never worried about damaging the OEM tube when taking it off. I found that a pipe wrench ( ) works just fine for removal. The SureCycle tubes have a hole that can be used stick a phillips head screwdriver or appropriate sized punch through to tighten them back up and loosen them again if necessary. Putting your replacement back on will depend on what you're replacing the OEM with but it can probably be tightened sufficiently with a strap wrench in conjunction with a little blue Loctite applied to the threads.

Other than styling changes (trigger guard/forend) the only real difference I can think of is the II is available with the ComforTech stock. On some of the older I's, the link (the arm on the back of the bolt that pushes in on the recoil tube) was a cast-metal part that was prone to breakage, especially when using the 3/3.5" heavy loads. It was upgraded in later versions.