truckcop

Well, assuming you put it right back where you found it at the end of the mag tube on the gun, there's your problem. Pull that spring retainer out. It's a tight fit in the end of the magazine tube and it's designed to keep the spring from shooting your eye out when you take the magazine cap off. If you re-install it in the end of the magazine tube you haven't changed the tube capacity and it doesn't have the ability to move forward into the additional capacity of the extension. Take the retainer out, put your spring back in the tube, screw the Nordic extension back on and you'll be good to go. Unless, that is, you cut the spring too short when you were making your adjustments. Cross that bridge when you come to it.

As I understand your problem, the extension made no difference in the number of shells you can insert in the magazine tube. If that is correct, I have a hunch. You advise this is your first shotgun so I'm going to go out on a limb here. Take a look at the second photo in this link: http://shootnoshoot.wordpress.com/2011/03/07/gear-review-nordic-components-2-magazine-tube-extension/ Just under the spring in that photo there's a round thing called the spring retainer that was in the end of the magazine tube and you probably had to take out with a pair of needle nose pliers. When you put the gun back together with the Nordic stuff, did you re-install that spring retainer in the end of the magazine tube? If you didn't install that retainer, then there's obviously a problem somewhere else. I only ask because we've been here before so I usually go to the simple explanation first.

Why does it have to be NIB? GunBroker usually has a few M1 receivers. Some with the ghost ring rear sight, some not. Problem is, you can probably find a complete M1 for less than you'd pay for all the parts it would take to make one up. There's one there now with rifle sights for a BIN price of 820.00. Doesn't get much better than that. I'd buy it myself if I didn't already have 4.

The answer to your question is no. Nearly all buttstock shell holders are some variation of the elastic band with elastic shell holders. And they're all a pain in the neck (literally) if you need to switch shoulders to shoot. Buy yourself a dozen of these, stick them in your go-bag, glove box, cargo pocket, wherever, pre-loaded, and clip them on your belt when the need arises. https://store.safariland.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=3767fd42508dc3e5c4050fd025dc2cf6&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=Holsters&Product_Code=080-12&Category_Code=

I didn't think you had to aim with a shotgun. Just point and shoot. That's how they do it on TV. Must be right.

Scratches, marks, rubs = character, signs of life It's a tool. Tools get marked up. Look up Kim's Rhode's shotgun in the web sometime. It's a Perazzi. A PERAZZI! Looks like it's been kicked down a flight of stairs a few times and probably dropped of a jet plane's loading ramp onto the tarmac once or twice. It's even been stolen at least once. Still works. Just fine.

My M1's have no issues with it. My 14" entry gun really loves it. Cycles just fine and phenomenal patterns. I was using LE13200 before flite control wads and it was good then(still is - I have a couple of cases left). The FCW's took it to a whole 'nuther level, as they say.

So, they've turned a M4 into a M2 Tactical/Heavy. Woo hoo!! Just my luck. My computer's bid now button broke.

To me, shotgunnery is more wizardry than science. Many factors come into play. I’ve shot identical shotguns back-to-back, using identical chokes shooting the same ammunition. Mostly 870’s doing function checks prior to issuing them out. Some patterned incredibly well. Others wouldn’t hit the broad side of a barn at point blank range. Others were somewhere in between those extremes. You don’t mention whether you’ve done this but the first thing I always do is bench the gun and shoot it for point-of-aim/point-of-impact. It doesn’t matter whether the sight/rib are aligned with your dominant eye if the barrel is out of whack (sorry, I don’t mean to use such technical jargon). It can be imperceptibly bent or bored non-concentrically. The rib could have been installed just a bit off-center. A static firing test would point you to something like that. Unless your 870 is set up identically to your SBE, i.e., length of pull, cast, drop and pitch, comparing them is questionable at best, meaningless at worst. Even the weight of the gun can make a difference. I started shooting skeet with an 870. I then went to a Benelli M2 and occasionally a SBE. That transition wasn’t much of a problem but when I went back to my 870, I couldn’t hit diddly (more technical terms – sorry). The gun just didn’t feel right and it took me a while to start hitting consistently again. Point here is: different guns mount differently, feel different, and shoot different. If you’re shooting skeet, after you’ve confirmed point of aim/point of impact, shoot a whole round or more from one station. I’d go to station 4. Shoot until you can consistently hit the birds going both ways. Then go to another station and do the same thing. Does anyone else in your group have a SBE? Shoot his and see if you have any different results from shooting yours. That’s all I got.

The first question is: For what purpose are you looking? If you are in CA and NEED such a device in order to transfer the firearm then buy the cheapest POS you can find that's listed on their site. You can probably find someone to GIVE you one of those. Heck, I bet your SO or PD gives them away. If you're looking for real firearms security for when you're not home, keeping the kids from accessing it, or something along those lines, then go with a real safe or similar receptacle.

Assuming you're referring to the inertia spring inside the bolt, when the bolt is out of battery the locking head is not pushed back against the spring and it will move around inside the bolt. That's the noise you're hearing. Normal. If you're referring to the recoil spring making noise when you pull the bolt back, well it is a metal spring inside a metal tube. Squirt a little lube in it if it's a bother. Might mitigate the noise. Regarding the bolt not going forward when hitting the release, first, make sure that you properly installed the trigger group when put it back in the receiver. When putting the trigger group back in the receiver it's necessary to push the bolt release in while doing that so it will clear and re-engage the mechanism properly.

Suggest you start here: http://www.trulockchokes.com/chokes-blog/?p=28 Then here: http://www.briley.com/understandingchokes.aspx When it comes to shotguns, you'll find that NOTHING is exactly the same when it comes to just about everything. Two barrels from the same manufacturer that come off the assembly line one right after the other will likely have different patterns even when using the exact same choke.

Yes, that would be the thickest area of the upper receiver. You could also go with something like this and you wouldn't have to d&t the receiver. http://www.burrisoptics.com/speedbead.html

Personally, I'd keep the M2. The advantages of the M3 are primarily LE/mil advantages, i.e., ability to utilize non-lethal/lethal/gas/etc. in the same platform. A home defense situation would not really be one that would benefit from such a capability. You're not going to be launching bean bags or plastic buckshot unless that's going to be your primary HD round, in which case, get a used police trade-in 870 for 250 bucks. Unless you're going to put a ton of range time into training for transitions between the different type of rounds, stick with one type and go with that.

There used to be a pictorial explanation here on the site but the pics aren't there any more. It's really just a matter of punching out the roll-pin holding the carrier latch in the side of the receiver, pulling out the latch and replacing it with the GGG. After the latch is re-installed, the release button is screwed onto the button that has already been drilled and tapped by GGG. Getting the carrier latch pin back in can be tricky and you need to make sure the carrier latch spring is properly placed as well. The only tools you need are a roll-pin punch and small hammer. It also helps to have a slave pin to hold the latch while re-installing the roll pin.

I have a Craftsman Ignition Wrench set that had the right size among them for the front sight post. Tiny little open-end wrenches.

My guess is the answer is "no".

Gas guns are usually the softest shooting shotguns and are generally reliable with low-recoil target loads such as Winchester AA low noise/low recoil loads. Depending on the kind of money he has to spend (did he sell a Harley or did he sell a Vespa?), I'd look at Remington 1100 first, then up the line to one of the Berettas. Go check out a club. There's usually any number of folks willing to let him try out a basic gun. The softest shooting shotgun I ever fired was an old Browning B80, which, if I recall correctly, was a Browning-imported Beretta. I held on to it for a while for my brother while he went through a divorce. He had to pry it out of my hands to get it back.

The +4 extension will put the end of the magazine just short of the muzzle of the barrel on a 21" M2. Nordic is as good as they come for aftermarket. Benelli OEM works just as well. I've got both on different guns. The Nordic is slightly larger in diameter than OEM but I've found no difference/advantage/disadvantage in using either in terms of functional reliability. Bottom gun is M2 w/21" barrel & +3 Nordic extension.

ARGO - Auto-Regulating Gas-Operated Not having fired the SLP, can only speculate that recoil will be comparable using the same loads. Each is around 7 and a half pounds empty. I doubt you would be able to "feel" any difference when shooting.

Probably this guy: http://www.c-rums.com/Shotgun.html

That sling plate was originally designed to use the HK 3-point sling. The hook fits the front attachment point and there's an attachment on the sling that fits right into the slot on the plate in the stock: I don't know why Benelli keeps using that plate design since it isn't conducive to using other types of attachments. Someone, I can't remember who, makes a replacement plate that takes the quick-detach sling swivels. Edit: found it: http://shopnoveske.com/collections/parts/products/benelli-qd-sling-plate They also make a replacement that takes the HK-style Hook as well. The sling you're using was designed for field-style attachment points. Not really optimal for that shotgun, especially the stock attachment as you've found. You can cobble stuff together and make things work but that usually ends up being less than satisfying than getting something that works in the first place. And you usually end up spending more money in the long run than if you went another way to begin with. At least that's what some have told me. I've NEVER had that happen myself.

Where you got rails on your M2 to attach either one of those?

And I only had to sell 2 rifles, 3 pistols, another spotting scope and 1000 rounds of 9mm ammo to get it.

Well, yes, with angled eyepiece, of course. That's one way to go.